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Crossed Drilled Rotors.....Vol II

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Old 05-21-2004 | 10:46 PM
  #41  
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I dont think it would help because unlike the rotor situation, the gas is not building up between the friction plates and causing loss of friction. I may be wrong but I dont see that happening.
Old 05-21-2004 | 11:21 PM
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???
When you slip a cluch too much and it atarts to smell and smoke (worse-case scenario) there IS gas building up between the flywheel and clutch......I'm not sure it would be enough to affect performance or friction but it IS still happening.

any other opinions ???
Old 05-22-2004 | 12:07 AM
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well brake pads and rotors are two smooth surfaces, the clutch is not which might make the difference. Im not sure.

Its a different scenario these outgas when they are rubbing against each other, not when they are enaged.
Old 05-22-2004 | 12:17 AM
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Well....that makes sense.....
Old 05-22-2004 | 12:18 AM
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yeah, they aren't pressed together when they are gassing but the brakes are. there is already space there.
Old 05-24-2004 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by -= MacADaYear =-
Ouch im not ready to drop 3-4 grand on a brake system right now

(BTW- what do you run in the quarter mile ford boy? )
LMAO..sorry..I dont run my truck on the track..haven't yet anyways. I need to get it dyno-ed sometime soon. I want to see how many ponies i have and my all important torque. Problem being i can't find a dyno tht will let me run M/T's on there machines.lol..

As for the question of warping and cracking and all...well you cannot get your slotted or CD-ed rotors turned. If they warp you are forced to buy brand new ones. The holes in the rotors can possibly vent more heat, but the also allow for a greater chance of cracking at those points (holes). thinner material than stock + same amount of force= greater stress. Hence the will crack easier than your oem blank rotors.

greentahoe- You might want to check what size rotors are going onto some of the 2500's If they are anything like the relationship between the f-150 and 250's then they have the same bolt pattern for a few models and larger rotors. Other than that, yes i would suggesst getting new brakelines(braided) and upgraded hawk pads and rotors. I am not gonna say get the powerslots or not..just do some research first and formulate your own opinion.

Trey- Brembo has good quality. The dust shield protects the rotor from picking up material and then having the pads dic it into the braking surface. Definitly a must have.
Old 05-24-2004 | 08:41 AM
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ok i had my rotors turned due to warpege. i know dont do it. but now that i went to the thermoquads or quiet something i am getting **** load of brake dust. what are the best pads for driving the s**t out of it and normal driving. least amopunt of dust.
Old 05-24-2004 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 02denali
ok i had my rotors turned due to warpege. i know dont do it. but now that i went to the thermoquads or quiet something i am getting **** load of brake dust. what are the best pads for driving the s**t out of it and normal driving. least amopunt of dust.
Try
SBS ProTouring Heavy Duty Pads

Hawk HP SuperDuty brake pads

Or

EBC 6000 Series

Hawk has a street pad out there that should be decent as well.

just go to tirerack.com and pick "street performance" brakes. AutoX pads will be too much $$ and you wont gain performance
Old 05-24-2004 | 10:08 AM
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thanks trey.
Old 05-24-2004 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 02denali
ok i had my rotors turned due to warpege. i know dont do it. but now that i went to the thermoquads or quiet something i am getting **** load of brake dust. what are the best pads for driving the s**t out of it and normal driving. least amopunt of dust.
Hawk HPS pads. They work wonders.



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