skeet

iTrader: (18)

so porting a tb is basically designed to ease or better air flow( correct) it isnt designed to actually gain HP? its also designed to help throttle response ( is it not?) just thinking, if its ported for better air flow, and throttle response then in reality we should see a slight gain ( no ?)

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

The idea behind porting the TB is to remove material that otherwise blocks flow. This is to increase CFM through the manifold at only part throttle so as to say you will need less pedal to get the same job done. It is my understanding too that he changes the screw length to allow the throttle blade to open perfectly horizontal at WOT. I am very skeptical of this modification but because the idea behind it is sound, I am willing to spend $55 on it just to test it. I was going to do this modification right away but I figure now I'll just drive my 5.7L around and get a feel for it, THEN do the modification to see if there's a noticeable difference. I am only sending him a spare TB that I have so if the ported TB he sends back creates problems with a smooth idle @600-650 rpms I will put the unported TB back on.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

How about a link to the thread on Tech?

trever1t

iTrader: (14)

Do a search please. I removed the link from the first post.

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

This is just silly, I might as well go home and "port" my quadrajet throttle plates and knife edge them to get another 2 CFM. This is about as sensible to me as a tornado air tube insert. If you have that much restriction going on that you can feel a difference in a ported throttle body, you have bigger issues going on. Such as you need a more free flowing intake and larger throttle body. Also the 5 RWHP difference could be the inconsistencies in runs. I've never seen a dyno be pefectly accurate between runs either. The 5 RWHP difference could be the time the engine had to cool down while the new throttle body was installed.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Maybe that's why GM went to a 90mm TB on the GenIVs

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

I would say you're exactly right. If you're feeling a difference from a ported TB, you need to consider upgrading your intake manifold and intake tract.

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

Amen

John

rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

Aren't most "bolt-on" mods designed to help your engine move air into, and out of, your engine more efficiently? The answer would be...yes.

Some people buy a drop-in K&N air filter for $65 and swear the truck is faster...
Some people buy an aftermarket air intake tube for $100+ because it smooths and/or straightens the airflow...
Some people spend $300 on a "cold air kit" and swear it's the greatest thing since sliced bread...
Some people spend $5000-$6000+ for a supercharger that compresses and forces more air into their engines for a sizeable horsepower gain...

My questions to the doubters would be...
If making air flow easier into an engine doesn't help free up power, then why do people:
Modify stock airboxes
Run cold air intakes
Run K&N or other high flow air filters
Run LS6 intakes
Why do we bother doing any of these things????

The LS1 car guys seem to do the ported throttle bodies as one of their first mods due to the low price, and positive results. I've never heard one claim that his car felt slower, or had worse throttle response after doing so.

Don't the best running vehicles seem to be owned by the guys who do ALL of the little things...all the little tricks? I'd say more often than not, the answer would be YES.

My LS1 car runs quite well do to me doing all the little things that the doubters claim will/would never work, and is 100% the reason why I bought my present truck with an LS based engine...because I knew it would also respond well to the tricks and little mods that also work on the LS1 (and newer) cars.

I have no dyno numbers from my home ported throttle body, since it was done along with a few other "free" mods, but I can say with 100% certainty that throttle response was noticeably better. Dyno numbers are a joke anyway...I made 322rwhp in my Camaro, and it ran 12.66@107. With small cam and stall converter, it made 344rwhp, yet has run 11.67@115? No matter who does the mathematics, 20rwhp does not equal 1 second quicker and 8mph faster, but I have dyno sheets that "prove it".

We all know that the throttle body spacers, the descreened maf meters, aftermarket air tubes (like Airaid Jr.), and of course the old "Tornado" doesn't do much of anything, but it's baffling to me that guys will spend hundreds of dollars on some of this stuff (and other similar things), for what amounts to no dyno hp, no seat of the pants gains, and nothing but a lighter wallet, and then will be so scared of a $55 mod that's been proven to work, over & over again...

I honestly haven't looked into my truck's throttle body to see if it has the steps, casting marks, and other imperfections that the cars all seem to have. But I do know that I'll be porting my truck's throttle body asap, not for a shot at 5 dyno hp, lol, but for guaranteed improved throttle response, which is what a heavy truck would surely benefit from.

And I'll bet anyone here that I'll FEEL more of a difference from that hour's worth of dremel work than I did from the POS plastic $110 Airaid Jr. intake tube everyone who's bought, seems to love...

BTW, the throttle stop mod that someone referred to is done because the stock throttle bodies' blades do not open a full 90 degrees. Don't believe it? Pop off your intake tube and manually open the throttle...At best, it opens up 70 degrees. This is an obvious restriction...similar to having a Tornado stuffed into the air tube, lol...

D_reks{5.3}

iTrader: (13)

Thats the part that gets me. If your willing to spend hundreds of $ to try something else out then what is $55.