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did the walbro swap but....

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Old 02-15-2008, 07:27 PM
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I just did mine this last weekend and aside from the additional noise it starts up just the same as stock.
Old 02-15-2008, 08:09 PM
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Mine starts just like stock too. I have heard of a couple others that have to let it prime for a sec. Not sure why.
Old 02-15-2008, 08:44 PM
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Sometimes mine has to crank a little. But I removed the check valve in the fuel pump cage assembly. I didn't want the check valve restricting my fuel flow. I don't care if it bleeds off overnite, just don't want it bleeding off a WOT.
Old 05-12-2008, 11:43 PM
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I found this thread by searching because I have a similar problem. My '05 6.0 with an STS kit is beginning to give me starting problems. I have an MSD boost a pump and meth and it has always started like stock until recently. If the fuel pressure regulator and pump are one unit on the '05 models then how do you replace them individually? Is that even possible? If I wanted to run a 255lph in-tank pump could I even do it at all? Has anyone else with a returnless system had a FPR problem? Thanks for any help!!
Old 05-13-2008, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by doofus
I found this thread by searching because I have a similar problem. My '05 6.0 with an STS kit is beginning to give me starting problems. I have an MSD boost a pump and meth and it has always started like stock until recently. If the fuel pressure regulator and pump are one unit on the '05 models then how do you replace them individually? Is that even possible? If I wanted to run a 255lph in-tank pump could I even do it at all? Has anyone else with a returnless system had a FPR problem? Thanks for any help!!
Did you check if your fuel pressure is holding after the key is turned off? If not it could be a stuck check valve in the pump outlet or a leak in the lines inside the tank. Does it help if your turn the key on a couple of times before actually cranking?

The pump itself can be replaced with a Walbro unit. You will also need new hoses. See the appropriate Magnacharger install manual. They sell pump replacement kits with the pump, hoses, clamps, etc. The Walbro is best suited for the style of fuel module shown in the 2500 install manual: http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...00-2003-06.pdf
If you have the style shown in the 1500 manual, you will lose the siphon system that keeps the bucket filled with fuel.
http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...00-2003-06.pdf
Old 05-13-2008, 04:56 PM
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I have the gauge on it right now. Key on engine off is 56psi, engine on is 65psi. I left it there and I will check it after work. It stayed at 56 for about 30 minutes before I left. It does help to cycle the switch a couple of times. But I do know the pump runs, and I even put 12 volts directly to it through the port in the under hood fuse box and it runs fine. If it stays at 50-56 psi for 8 hours then I guess it is fine as far as leaks, but that still leaves me clueless as far as the starting problem. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the help!!
Old 05-13-2008, 07:03 PM
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same thing happen to me https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=414684... i just got use to it.
Old 05-13-2008, 08:27 PM
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I read through that thread after searching the other day. By me replying under the "Walbro swap" thread I probably mislead you. My truck still has a stock pump with a boost-a-pump upping the voltage as boost rises. I don't understand what is going on. I have had this set-up for months now with zero starting problems. I also can't see the Walbro acting any different than stock. You know, it just dawned on me. You guys are saying the Walbro takes a little time to start, and it is just the pump. I have a factory pump and it is doing the same thing. Could it be that there is a problem elsewhere? The '05 is returnless and everything (pump, FPR, filter) is one unit. I am going to keep troubleshooting until I find something, or go crazy, whichever comes first!!!!
Old 05-13-2008, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by doofus
I have the gauge on it right now. Key on engine off is 56psi, engine on is 65psi. I left it there and I will check it after work. It stayed at 56 for about 30 minutes before I left. It does help to cycle the switch a couple of times. But I do know the pump runs, and I even put 12 volts directly to it through the port in the under hood fuse box and it runs fine. If it stays at 50-56 psi for 8 hours then I guess it is fine as far as leaks, but that still leaves me clueless as far as the starting problem. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the help!!
Fuel system is likely OK if it held for 5 minutes.

How does it start(symptoms)? Any difference starting if you bypass/delete the Boost a Pump?
Old 05-14-2008, 10:47 AM
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If I cycle the switch a few times it starts and acts like normal. I have not bypassed the boost-a-pump yet, but I see where you are going. The only thing is it runs fine after it is started, and it fuels correctly under boost as well. I checked my gauge after work (12 hours) and it still showed 15psi, so I would say my system is fine. Again, I applied 12 volts to the small port to the left of the fuel relay in the underhood fuse box and the pump runs just fine and the gauge verified correct pressure. I am stumped!! Thanks for your input, I need all the help I can get!! By the way DrX, I noticed you are now running a return fuel system. What is (are) the advantage(s) of doing this and what is involved? I know the FPR and pump are separate in that type so that is an advantage from the start. Have you ever had starting issues like this? Thanks again!
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