Does this engine need to go to the machine shop?
#1
Thread Starter
I have a gauge for that
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From: Huntsville, AL
Does this engine need to go to the machine shop?
2002 lq4 from a 2500hd
it looks like its been sitting outside for a few years and water worked its way in to some of the cylinders and sat there. do you think it needs to be honed out/rings replaced or what? how smooth do the cylinders need to be? anything else that should be checked on an engine like this?
the pics are from after me spending a good while cleaning the pistons and walls with degreaser and oven cleaner and removing carbon buildup.
it looks like its been sitting outside for a few years and water worked its way in to some of the cylinders and sat there. do you think it needs to be honed out/rings replaced or what? how smooth do the cylinders need to be? anything else that should be checked on an engine like this?
the pics are from after me spending a good while cleaning the pistons and walls with degreaser and oven cleaner and removing carbon buildup.
#3
Anytime you are planning to build an engine like this that has that kind of wear/rust you need a good hone and rings....that shouldnt even be a question.
My machine shop boiled, honed and installed new cam bearings on my old 350 for like $125.....well worth it
My machine shop boiled, honed and installed new cam bearings on my old 350 for like $125.....well worth it
#7
I would.
I usually just hone an engine if there is a little wear, but an obvious cross-hatch pattern still visible. There is quite a bit of scuffing and galling on those walls...I would have it looked at by a machine shop. They may hone it...they may poke it to .020 over.
They will let you know...they are the experts man. Personally, if I were planning on putting power to it...I would opt for a punch as opposed to a hone, as a hone will take stock pistons and rings, but now you may be .010 over, still in tolerances but just on the edge....not where you'd wanna be if your gonna put your foot in it more than now and again.
I usually just hone an engine if there is a little wear, but an obvious cross-hatch pattern still visible. There is quite a bit of scuffing and galling on those walls...I would have it looked at by a machine shop. They may hone it...they may poke it to .020 over.
They will let you know...they are the experts man. Personally, if I were planning on putting power to it...I would opt for a punch as opposed to a hone, as a hone will take stock pistons and rings, but now you may be .010 over, still in tolerances but just on the edge....not where you'd wanna be if your gonna put your foot in it more than now and again.
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#9
First off have them mic it. That will tell you if its within stock clearances, if its not, they will suggest boring it. If they think it'll clean up to stock clearances with a hone, they'll try that first, then mic again.
If you have to have it bored, (lets just say .030) then buy .030 pistons, but buy .035 rings, and have them filed down to match each cylinder perfectly. This is how we (my dad and I) always started when building his $30K race engines.....
If you have to have it bored, (lets just say .030) then buy .030 pistons, but buy .035 rings, and have them filed down to match each cylinder perfectly. This is how we (my dad and I) always started when building his $30K race engines.....