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Does this engine need to go to the machine shop?

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Old 06-20-2010 | 09:22 AM
  #31  
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I built a motor that I got from the junk yard just like that.

It looked just like the inside a BBQ pit. . . . plan on boring it out and having new bearings put in . . . . I'm sure that the crank is just as bad.

I used Sealed Power Hypereutectic flat top pistons that were .020. They came with their own rings and wrist pins.

All new bearings, stock rods, hypereutectic pistons (cast machined, not forged)
I ran the motor with a small 222/224 .566 .568 -112 cam for a while with the stock 317 heads and enjoyed it for a little while . . . and then pulled and sold it.

The new guy put some PRC 5.3 heads on it, along with a FAST 90mm intake + a 100 shot and it put down 525, with an auto, 3.73, and 3600 stall . . . 98 ram air TA
Old 06-20-2010 | 11:41 AM
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Think we should take apart the bottom end to check it out?
Old 06-20-2010 | 12:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Think we should take apart the bottom end to check it out?
It's up to the owner, and how much he's willing to spend. If someone brought that motor to me, I would even think twice about installing with out giving an "opinion" about its condition. It looks to me like a 2K-$2,500 rebuild.

It looks like a high mile core that someone returned or it's been sitting inside the truck with the intake and hood off. There's no reason to have that much rust in all of the cylinders. It looks like a flood recovery to me.

You could slap it together and run it as it sits, but you won't know until you try. He will have a hard time with cylinder pressure . . . I'll be that the rings are shot the way that they are.

There's really no way to tell unless you pull the bottom end. I'd order a set of rod bolts now . . . .
Old 06-20-2010 | 01:11 PM
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Atomic! What the hell! Of course you should look at the bottom end! With walls like that up top and if it's been sitting out....at least pull a cap and look at bearings.

I'd go ahead and have the crank looked at and buy new main and rod bearings. Cheap insurance

this is getting annoying. Tell your buddy to either do it right or slap heads on it abd watch it fail.
Old 06-20-2010 | 01:18 PM
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Besides, to do any work to the cylinders you'll need to lose the pistons and rods, might as well pull it all apart.

The ls1 I have had 50k on it, I still pulled it apart and found a broken piston and some really bad bearings. You never know
Old 06-20-2010 | 01:44 PM
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I'd be pissed if I paid $1000 an got that. Tell the place you got it from you want your money back.

Kind of a bad situation because he was not wanting to put a 6.0 in it his motor just happened to crap out unexpectedly.
Old 06-20-2010 | 03:12 PM
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I don't even wanna pull mine apart. It was running fine when I bought it so hopefully it last in my truck. Poor cole he's prolly really dulled out about this
Old 06-20-2010 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumpers
I don't even wanna pull mine apart. It was running fine when I bought it so hopefully it last in my truck. Poor cole he's prolly really dulled out about this
Yea all this was not what I was hoping for, but we took the oil pan off and the crank looks to be in pretty good condition. There wasn't any water in the oil pan either which is good.

I'm gonna call some machine shops tomorrow and see what they say.
Old 06-20-2010 | 09:46 PM
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Good thing we took it apart, I realized I dont have the windage tray bolts and oil pickup tube bolt for my 408
Old 06-20-2010 | 10:17 PM
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yep, she's gonna need a rebuild! looks like it got hot. oil is baked on. my long block looked just like that. i am punching it .060" over when the time comes. I got a set of mahle forged flat top -2cc pistons, rings, and pins brand new from mahle's ebay store for $400 shipped. and eagle h-beam rods with 7/16" arp2000 bolts good to 900hp for $350 new from an ebay store. machine work will be ~$500, and that would be a stout bottom end. or you can rebuild stock stuff for ~$1000. i would save and forge it.



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