99RedHawk

Finally, dynoed the truck with several different mods.First, lets get to the Cam. Not real happy with the results with my street racing test or dynos.. I picked up about 6 RWHP but lost power in the low to mid range, about 4 to 7 RWHP to be exact. The Cam was free so I will do some more research and change it out.. Probably go a little bigger.. Peak power is around 5600 RPM, which is about 200 rpm higher than the stock cam. I did gain about 20 rwhp from 5400 to 5600 rpm but thats not much help.. Final results are gained power but in all the wrong places.. I may go back and degree the cam before removing it though..

Duel Cut-outs showed a solid 20 RWHP gain all the way through the power range.... I was expecting about 15 but got a bonus..I guess exhaust work can be worth it , if you like the extra noise..Be carefull on how much you spend to get the RWHP gains..

UPD showed a 20 to 23 RWHP gain and it is all the way through the power range.. This was a huge bonus for me.. I was expecting 12 to 15 RWHP ,which was fine too.. I then dynoed the UPD with 4" ram air tube and with stock fender hole opening..This was to see if my big 6 litre needed more air than the lower box could supply..Well, I actually lost 3.1 RWHP with the added 4" tube..I was told that the 4" hole caused air turbulence from the factory fender openings and moded 4" opening..Bottom line ,,,I blocked off the 4" hole opening and just left the UPD and stock air inlets..My ATAP test at 100 to 110 MPH showed me that I was most likely not seeing results from this extra hole..No intake air inlet temp. drop between the two and no increase in MAF flow rate per minute..

Last I had installed a 4" ram air mod and wanted to dyno test the extra air flow.. Adding a 4" cold air tube to the stock lower box is not really ram air unless you block off the factory fender holes..You need air pressure to create TRUE Ram Air..I just added the 4" tube and left the factory holes ,, as most people have done..Lets just call this a cold air mod..Also, it takes 100 plus MPH speeds to get any kind of ram air gains and I mean small gains..I don`t think there is much cold air difference between the fender air and front moded air inlet but maybe some..Cold air is the key, since its hard to get boost from ram air on trucks that run under 100 mph in the 1/4 mile. If you do cut and extra hole,, I would be sure and block off the factory air inlets..

Let me explain the dyno chart some..Dyno 5 is stock air intake and cut outs closed. Dyn 7 is UPD with 4" ram air mod , cut outs closed. You can see the 20 RWHP gain all the way up. Dyno 8 is UPD intake with 4" ram air blocked off. Notice the 3.1 RWHP gain.No extra air is needed on this motor. Last is the second dyno page,,, dyno 9.This is with UPD, 4" ram air blocked off and cut outs open.Also notice that all these dynos were done within 6 to 10 minutes of each other..No long cool downs, just flat out operating temp. runs..

Big Red II Dynos

Brooke

oxidizr

iTrader: (4)

Sorry that you didn't get your expected results but I have a few questions...

Which cam was this?

What happens / is happening between 5000-5600 rpm?

Did you Atap the pass while on the dyno?

If you are loosing some timing or fuel you may have some room for improvement with this cam.

I did some testing of my own with intakes and came to learn that my TB relocate, 4" elbow, 4" straight tube and the Blitz stainless filter ran best. One observation I had was that the length of the intake tube seemed to effect g/sec of flow at high rpms with this set-up. Being I had to buy a 10' peice of sewer tube I tried a 16" tube and a 24" tube. The 16" seemed to run best and the filter definately helps straighten flow and maintains stable flow for a smoother power curve. I also noticed that the 24" tube was much louder. I may try some more testing here and see if the tube length has any substantial gain potential.

Richard

RandyZ71

As always, <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> you da man! I have felt like the UPD is probably my best bang for the buck mod so far, and you proved it (plus it sounds cool as ****).

I went out the other night to G-Tech my truck and post some really impressive numbers. An average of 16.5 is anything but impressive, but I really think that number is a little slow given I never could find a perfectly flat stretch of road and launched in 2WD at idle with a little wheelspin. With my mods I was really hoping for a 15.9 or so, you know only 2 seconds slower than Big Red II <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> .

With only 2700 miles on the clock, I haven't made any mods yet that can't be removed and put back factory in an afternoon except for the single in dual out muffler. In my quest for a little more torque down low, are long tubes and true duals the next step??

And finally... In your opinion, HPP3 or Superchips microtuner. I had good results on my '96 with the HPP3, but some say the Superchips is better at the tuning aspect.

Thanks

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Can you really count that 325 torque number on run 9 @ 4100 rpms? It looks like a spike more than anything. The other runs that start before 4000 dont show anything that high in that area. Just curious.

Cam ques: Can you feel a difference with that cam? I know it is in the wrong areas, but does it feel better than stock?

Neil 6.0

What air filter are you using?

Ram4Pick

Great post!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . I've made that 4" ram-air you're talking about, it definitly made a difference in my opinion over the two stock intake ports. I haven't, however, tried blocking the stock intake ports off and running just the 4" ram-air opening I made. I may have to try that, but I did noticed that even though you gained 3.1 hp, you lost 1.7 lb ft tq when the 4" port was blocked. I also never really considered it a "ram-air" intake, more of a cool air intake as you suggested. I know it's not "ramming" the air in even when I'm on the freeway but opening up the stock box does work.
Jim <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

99RedHawk

Richard,
This is a cam I got from Patrick G out of his camaro. It was free, so I tried it out.. Its a crane cam, .210 int./.216 exh./.530 int./.550 exh. on a 113 LSA .. I think 4 deg advance cut into it. I didn`t cam doctor it , so I really can`t verify the specs 100% .. It seems that its not installed at the right degree and may run better with some more advance or it may just be a POS cam.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Probably go with a custom comp cam next..

Did not ATAP the dyno runs but have plenty on the highway..The curve you are seeing is consistant with my stock cam dynos.. They are almost and exact overlay , except the crane cam has 4 to 7 less HP from 4000 rpm to 5200 rpm and then climbs about 20 RWHP more at 5500 to 5800 rpm..NO doubt that torque managemnet is playing a role here.. Still drop timing in the 5400 rpm range.. I think it still thinks the shift is at 5400 rpm but it did that with the stock cam too..haha Ls1 edit will fix that though..

Randy, I don`t the long tubes and true duels will help the low end torque but will increase mid range and upper power. A small torque converter will really get the weight moving though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> .. Will cost you less than the long tubes and exhaust sytem too.

LS1 edit will be my favorite but hpp3 is my choice for now.. I got huge gains from the hpp3 and will be glad to do a heads up against the supper tuner anyday.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Big Tex, The truck kept kicking into second gear below 4000 rpm and I wasn`t counting torque at all. My peak torque is about 3800 rpm and you may just be seeing the decline of the peak torque.. NOt sure but good observation. Dyno torque is really hard to compare because you can make a motor show more torque by how early you punch it on the dyno. I usually don`t pay much attention to a few ft lbs of torque changes either way.

The cam feels a little slower down low but I feel a strong kick, when I punch it at 5500 RPM or so.. The dyno also backs that up..This cam is hurting my ET though..The power loss and gains are in the wrong areas. These big trucks can`t afford to lose low end/mid range power , unless you have a 4000 rpm stall ..haha

Neil, I am using the K&N air filter.

Jim, I think you will have better luck with blocking off the factory air inlets and reduce turbulence through the filter. A 4" air inlet tube is a huge amount of air for a stock internal 5.3 motor.. Of course this will all depend on your set up and air filter. Your whole induction system is different than mine and all that matters is what works for you... I am only reporting my ATAP and dyno numbers with my set up..I know my larger motor which needs a lot more air than a 5.3 litre , does not need the extra air.The extra 4" hole is hurting my set up...Besides, I didn`t like hacking my lower box up and the added noise of the 4" tube was awefull..

I am pretty much done testing my bolt on stuff now and will continue to find a strong cam, converter, LS1 edit and tune for a larger nitrous shot.. I feel my bolt on stuff is pretty much perfected for me.. 15.27 N/A in a 6200 lb 4x4 is not bad with a few solid bolt ons, maintianing my drivability and stock interior noise levels.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Anyone have a stock lower box they want to sell?? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> email my at brooke@net1.net

Brooke

JasonsSS

Brooke,

I wonder how much power difference there would be between the UPD intake, and the Volant intake that I currently have. You had a Volant intake before, didn't you?

Jason

Ram4Pick

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jim, I think you will have better luck with blocking off the factory air inlets and reduce turbulence through the filter. A 4" air inlet tube is a huge amount of air for a stock internal 5.3 motor.. Of course this will all depend on your set up and air filter. Your whole induction system is different than mine and all that matters is what works for you... I am only reporting my ATAP and dyno numbers with my set up..I know my larger motor which needs a lot more air than a 5.3 litre , does not need the extra air.The extra 4" hole is hurting my set up...Besides, I didn`t like hacking my lower box up and the added noise of the 4" tube was awefull..

</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Brooke! I played around with the openings in my stock air box, I blocked off the two stock openings as you suggested and went out for a spin. I had a noticable loss in power, 0-60 time jumped up to 6.59 (6.3-6.4 average). I then opened the larger upper hole and still left the smaller lower hole blocked off and went for a another spin. Truck did a 6.22 in a 0-60, better than my normal time I stated above. I've left it that way for the past several days and this may be the right combo for me. The truck seems to run a little stronger this way, but it could just be a good tank of gas too. I'm also using a Purolator paper filter and you tested with a K&N which does allow more air flow, this may be a reason also. I'm going to try and go to the track Wednesday night and I'll see how she goes, I'm hoping to beat my best of 14.92.
Jim