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E-fan turn on temp... DCC, FAL, stock ls1

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Old 06-02-2004, 08:56 AM
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Not only does the fan cause the temp probe to read wrong but the air coming in as you move foward does also so locating the temp probe on the exhaust side of the radiator hose but...Not in the radiator, I put mine on the BLOCK side of the hose where it intially leaves the block into the rubber hose...Actually right b4 the rubber hose starts there is metal exposed that is where mine is and it doesnt cycle as much and stays on for a little longer at lower speeds. I'm thinking of a way to place it on the exhaust header to see if that keeps a more constant temp that isnt way too hot for the probe. See right now the fans cycle on and off with the temp on the VSC set at the lowest it can go so it obviously can stand more heat other wise it would stay on all the time set that low. ill let you know if it works though
Old 06-02-2004, 11:05 AM
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Like I said in my post above. I modded my tstat, added a spacer. I did it to make myself a homemade lower stat and I love it. I think it works better than the hypertech one Chingy has. My temps stay low. I can contol what temp I want the thermostat to come on by just shaving some off of the spacer inside the tstat.

The way I have it now my fans barley come on and im runnin at about 175-180. If im moving they dont come on unless im racing around or its really hot. And when I idle they cycle, like normal not very fast.
Old 06-02-2004, 12:32 PM
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I'll be doing that spacer mod the next time I feel like getting messy... What did you use? I figure I'll just drop in a .177 BB.

It's fairly hot out today. The fans are more consistant at the 194 setting.

A/C is ICE COLD! I didn't realize what I was missing until I got e-fans in.
Old 06-02-2004, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by marc_w
I'll be doing that spacer mod the next time I feel like getting messy... What did you use? I figure I'll just drop in a .177 BB.
Most people that have done it using a BB but I really like the screw I cut, you could also probly use a nice thick nail. I started long and shaved it to where I wanted it. I dont think you'll be able to do that with the BB. Im runnin bout 175 and was runnin about 160 something before I got efans. I think the reason it cools lower is because now the tsats is always open just a little bit. It will take longer to heat up but since ive got the efans that has gone away.

The longer the spacer the lower the temp

Also its really not that messy. Especially since you have efans. Just drain the radiator a little then unscrew. Little mess but its not bad at all. Last time I did mine I went ahead and flushed the radiator
Old 06-02-2004, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by marc_w
Awesome, thanks Brian!

(The 35A controller here is working great, BTW.)
so the 35 amp can handle the 282's ? can the vsc wiring/temp probe be used on the dcc ? any problems ?
Old 06-02-2004, 07:38 PM
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the battery and neg supply wires caqn be used. the temp probe that comes with the dcc needs to be used.
Old 06-03-2004, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 02denali
the battery and neg supply wires caqn be used. the temp probe that comes with the dcc needs to be used.
do you know if i buy the $ 79 unit if it comes with a probe ? guess i could call and ask. e
Old 06-03-2004, 06:36 AM
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there units come with everything needed to hook them up.
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