EVAP System code P0440.
#21
i had that evap code come on a new '10 truck with only 1400 kms on it. smoke test showed fuel cap. changed it out and 3000 kms later still no engine light. when the engine light came on that early i thought... oh boy here we go... what kind of lemon did i get! lol!
#22
Same code?
#23
actually there was 3 codes. one was p0440, p0442, and another about fuel level sensor intermittent. cant remember the exact code.
they did a smoke test and smoke came out the fuel cap. they put a new fuel cap and still no engine light to date. so that must have fixed it. when i seen 3 codes i thought something was really fu*ked. weird it would have set off 3 codes.
they did a smoke test and smoke came out the fuel cap. they put a new fuel cap and still no engine light to date. so that must have fixed it. when i seen 3 codes i thought something was really fu*ked. weird it would have set off 3 codes.
#24
here ya good its the evap canister that goes infront the gas tank under the truck i kept getting that same code. all u have to do is change out this and use 5/8 heater hose to reconnect. once i change mine and cleared code i have been riding 6 months no problems. hope this helps.
The part number recommended on GM-trucks is 25932571.
Pictures of that part number are a different shape but appear to have the same hookups for the pipe and the plug. I don't know how if it mounts the same but I don't care, I can hack that up however I need to.
I still wish I knew just how much noise/movement it's supposed to make when I give it 12v.
Anyway, I keep forgetting that I have a parts vehicle in my backyard. I'll see if it has one that works, and if not I'll probably try buying one.
$14.72 at gmpartsdirect.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...rtnum=25932571
http://www.google.com/products?q=25932571&scoring=p
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=259...1&_from=&_ipg=
The part number recommended on GM-trucks is 25932571.
Pictures of that part number are a different shape but appear to have the same hookups for the pipe and the plug. I don't know how if it mounts the same but I don't care, I can hack that up however I need to.
I still wish I knew just how much noise/movement it's supposed to make when I give it 12v.
Anyway, I keep forgetting that I have a parts vehicle in my backyard. I'll see if it has one that works, and if not I'll probably try buying one.
$14.72 at gmpartsdirect.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...rtnum=25932571
http://www.google.com/products?q=25932571&scoring=p
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=259...1&_from=&_ipg=
#25
#26
actually there was 3 codes. one was p0440, p0442, and another about fuel level sensor intermittent. cant remember the exact code.
they did a smoke test and smoke came out the fuel cap. they put a new fuel cap and still no engine light to date. so that must have fixed it. when i seen 3 codes i thought something was really fu*ked. weird it would have set off 3 codes.
they did a smoke test and smoke came out the fuel cap. they put a new fuel cap and still no engine light to date. so that must have fixed it. when i seen 3 codes i thought something was really fu*ked. weird it would have set off 3 codes.
Hope that the gas cap fixes your problem...you'll know as soon as the EVAP monitor meets all of its parameters and runs...may take a few days depending on a couple of conditions (fuel level, ambient air temp, intake air temp, getting the vehicle to drive above a certain speed for a certain amount of time, a cold start is necessary...there are others but I can't think of them all at this moment)
#27
Component Location
Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid On the top right rear of the engine
Customer Concern:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) code P0440 sets.
Tests/Procedures:
1. Check for dirt in the evaporative hose, evaporative canister, evaporative vent solenoid.
2. Check for obvious signs of leakage in the evaporative hoses, fuel tank filler, fuel cap, etc.
3. Check for leaking Purge Solenoid.
4. Check Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor grommet.
5. Check fuel level sender O ring.
Potential Causes:
Fuel Cap
Fuel Sender O-Ring
Purge Solenoid
Vent Control Solenoid
Diagnostic Codes:
P0440
Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid On the top right rear of the engine
Customer Concern:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) code P0440 sets.
Tests/Procedures:
1. Check for dirt in the evaporative hose, evaporative canister, evaporative vent solenoid.
2. Check for obvious signs of leakage in the evaporative hoses, fuel tank filler, fuel cap, etc.
3. Check for leaking Purge Solenoid.
4. Check Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor grommet.
5. Check fuel level sender O ring.
Potential Causes:
Fuel Cap
Fuel Sender O-Ring
Purge Solenoid
Vent Control Solenoid
Diagnostic Codes:
P0440
i got code p0440 and replaced the gas cap, cleaned the tank vent solenoid,purge valve and hooked them up to 12v power and they click when supplied power. i have heard that if you over fill your tank that could cause the canister to go bad. i always put as much gas as possible in my truck so could that be my problem?
how do you check for a leaking purge valve? when i took it off it sat in there kinda loose, i think thats just the way it sits in there.
how do you check for a leaking purge valve? when i took it off it sat in there kinda loose, i think thats just the way it sits in there.
ok i took off the canister yesterday looking to see if it was filled with fuel but no fuel came out.i figured that may be that was the problem because i always fill my tank as much as possible. it sounded like sand was in there when i shook it, should there be a sandy substance in there?
here ya good its the evap canister that goes infront the gas tank under the truck i kept getting that same code. all u have to do is change out this and use 5/8 heater hose to reconnect. once i change mine and cleared code i have been riding 6 months no problems. hope this helps.
The part number recommended on GM-trucks is 25932571.
Pictures of that part number are a different shape but appear to have the same hookups for the pipe and the plug. I don't know how if it mounts the same but I don't care, I can hack that up however I need to.
I still wish I knew just how much noise/movement it's supposed to make when I give it 12v.
Anyway, I keep forgetting that I have a parts vehicle in my backyard. I'll see if it has one that works, and if not I'll probably try buying one.
$14.72 at gmpartsdirect.com
http://www.google.com/products?q=25932571&scoring=p ...
The part number recommended on GM-trucks is 25932571.
Pictures of that part number are a different shape but appear to have the same hookups for the pipe and the plug. I don't know how if it mounts the same but I don't care, I can hack that up however I need to.
I still wish I knew just how much noise/movement it's supposed to make when I give it 12v.
Anyway, I keep forgetting that I have a parts vehicle in my backyard. I'll see if it has one that works, and if not I'll probably try buying one.
$14.72 at gmpartsdirect.com
http://www.google.com/products?q=25932571&scoring=p ...
~$15? I may have remembered the wrong name or it's a different part, but I thought my Evap Fuel Vent Solenoid was ~$96 from gmpartsdirect. Are we talkin different parts here? I was told by Mrgoodwrench3, I'd need some hose to remote mount it. So it must be that 5/8" hose u mentioned. Heater hose, not fuel hose? Won't it break down if it's not fuel compatible?
I'm also thinkin this is why my gas mileage went down. It could be the cats damaged internals too, which is another problem I have now.
After that, maybe my mileage went down after cam swap.
#28
Thanks.
Where'd u hear of this leaking purge valve? Myself I often fill up tank pretty far. Maybe I overfilled, which I guess is a no-no. Also, I guess gas cap has a torque, it's 3 clicks. I know I read that someone on PT on these evap code threads.
bluebommer07, that pic from http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddeta...?prod=214-2149 is the only valid link.
~$15? I may have remembered the wrong name or it's a different part, but I thought my Evap Fuel Vent Solenoid was ~$96 from gmpartsdirect. Are we talkin different parts here? I was told by Mrgoodwrench3, I'd need some hose to remote mount it. So it must be that 5/8" hose u mentioned. Heater hose, not fuel hose? Won't it break down if it's not fuel compatible?
I'm also thinkin this is why my gas mileage went down. It could be the cats damaged internals too, which is another problem I have now.
After that, maybe my mileage went down after cam swap.
Where'd u hear of this leaking purge valve? Myself I often fill up tank pretty far. Maybe I overfilled, which I guess is a no-no. Also, I guess gas cap has a torque, it's 3 clicks. I know I read that someone on PT on these evap code threads.
bluebommer07, that pic from http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddeta...?prod=214-2149 is the only valid link.
~$15? I may have remembered the wrong name or it's a different part, but I thought my Evap Fuel Vent Solenoid was ~$96 from gmpartsdirect. Are we talkin different parts here? I was told by Mrgoodwrench3, I'd need some hose to remote mount it. So it must be that 5/8" hose u mentioned. Heater hose, not fuel hose? Won't it break down if it's not fuel compatible?
I'm also thinkin this is why my gas mileage went down. It could be the cats damaged internals too, which is another problem I have now.
After that, maybe my mileage went down after cam swap.
Just to clarify, there is more than one valve in the EVAP system, and they are in different locations at obviously different costs...it can get confusing...
#30
You got it man...I got psyched for a second when I saw a link to the solenoid for $23, until I saw that the description = "purge"..."purge" and "vent" are two different valves
*edit* it may be possible to "make it work" with the purge valve, but I'd have to have them in my hands and check them out to know for sure. It's just an on and off valve...if the ports are the same size, and the resistance of the solenoids the same, one could probably be substituted for the other, but they probably mount differently also, and you may have to fabricate or "rig" a system to secure the valve (thinkin zip ties lol), and the connectors may be different
My check engine light went off and has been off for a month until I parked the truck for two weeks...drove it yesterday (it saw a cold start and I believe that I met the parameters to run the monitor...would've hooked up my scanner to check if I would have thought about it), and still no light
*edit* it may be possible to "make it work" with the purge valve, but I'd have to have them in my hands and check them out to know for sure. It's just an on and off valve...if the ports are the same size, and the resistance of the solenoids the same, one could probably be substituted for the other, but they probably mount differently also, and you may have to fabricate or "rig" a system to secure the valve (thinkin zip ties lol), and the connectors may be different
My check engine light went off and has been off for a month until I parked the truck for two weeks...drove it yesterday (it saw a cold start and I believe that I met the parameters to run the monitor...would've hooked up my scanner to check if I would have thought about it), and still no light
Last edited by budhayes3; 11-14-2010 at 12:08 PM.
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