L82gofast

iTrader: (1)

That wiring kit for the fans sucks and blows. Twice I have had Parish's problem of too much current draw for the main 40 amp line. The second time I put in a 8 gauge main wire for a audio amp (I had everything soldered). Worked fine for six months or so till last week when the fuse holder melted, yes MELTED.
Glad the truck did'nt go up. Mine are out now and the stock setup is back in. I am going to install a amp meter in line and test them out of the truck as I think one or both of those fan motors are pulling far more current than flex says they do.

Pin 42 on the blue connector closes to ground for the fans. I think you need to turn something on or set the temp with edit. I had farmtruc do it for me. It works fine.

Mike

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

I need the pins to put in the PCM to operate the fans ... I can do the rest.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i think Blownchevy said he would send pin's to people, he just wanted you to send him a self addressed stamed envelope. give him a PM, i think it was him.

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

Thx .. I'll try contacting him. He has PM's turned off though.

F8L Z71

I got stuck in the Bay Area traffic jam yesterday (2-5mph crawl then stop) and I noticed my temps rising fast. Once it hit the 3/4 mark I knew my fans were not working. So I made my way to the next exit. By that time I was at 260deg and if I let the truck idle it wanted to die.

Turns out my pin in the PCM is not making connection anymore (the pin was a little loose to begin with. So i had to use a car key to cut the wire and my teeth to strip the wire enough to ground it out on the radiator support so the fans would stay on and get me back home. Basically I feel your pain.

Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

buy the pins at a Radioshack. I got mine a t Fry's electronics (don't know if they have them where others live) I am pretty sure it was a .069 pin??? For a ton of them it cost me like $2.

The pin you need to put it in to is the blue side position #42. Go in edit and turn the settings to run Auxilary fans and then set what temp you want them on at and off at. It is simple and the best way to go I think. I have had zero problems, the pcm does all the work, and it works very well.
Good Luck

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

BigTex ... in that diagram .. is that for an F-bod? The truck PCM (mine anwyays) already has a pin in the blue 33 hole with a purple wire attatched to it. There are at least 5 other purple wires that go into the same wire loom, so it's gonna b next to impossible to trace it out.

That's not suppose to be in the other connector by chance is it? I didn't think to look in there yet.

From the schematic it looks like there is a high low setting the way it's wired up. low being when the pin42 is grounded and high being when pin 42 and 33 is grounded. Am I right in this ??

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Yes, this is for the FBOD. Using the dual control, it has two speeds. High and low. Basicallt, if they are wired in a series, its low. If they are wired in parallel, its high. Look at what that middle relay does - it moves them from series to parallel.

I'm going to wire mine up with the PCM controlling on/off functions. Then tap the A/C system to trigger the high/low relay. So its low speed for normal temps, then High when the AC is on.

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

Also ... I think that if the 33 fan was on, it would only run the second fan on HI.

That diagram is rather interesting. I didn't think about doing it that way, but I would worry that in the heat of the summer, low may not be enough to keep it cool.

Maybe a temp switch from the parts store would work.

baskin

reliable true variable speed controller

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthr...hreadid=469207

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...ht=fan+control

more expensive than vsc, less expensive than replacing a set of warped heads. Manufactured in the USA, you get what you pay for.