forged 383 build, afr heads... suburban... lots of pics
#1
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forged 383 build, afr heads... suburban... lots of pics
I posted a version of this over in the Gen III internal engine section, I thought it was a good fit in the truck section as well.
I realize now that for the amount of $$ spent on this build I could have done a 408 or maybe even more, however the scope and budget of this build has evolved significantly since I started it 1 year ago.
Here are the specs:
LM7 block bored to 3.905", line honed with ARP studs, decked to -0.010" by HKE.
Forged balanced stroker rotating assembly by TSP: Wiseco -3cc pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, K1 4" crankshaft.
Assembled by me with mitutoyo instrumentation.
AFR 210 heads, Pat G camshaft, FAST LSXRT 102mm topend and supporting components, 36lb injectors, 1-3/4" SS LT headers.
Tuning by Pat G in Victoria, TX.
The truck is a 2001 suburban 2500 4x4 with the 6.0 engine and 33" tires. It's pretty much stock, however it has dual 3" exhaust with 2 massive cats, 4l80e tranny, 14-bolt rear end with 4.10 gears, so its a good platform for the high hp engine.
Here are my goals for the engine:
1. Torque
2. Longevity
3. Driveability
4. Good peak power at 6k RPMs
Here is the status of the engine today (24 July):
1. Forged shortblock is assembled and ready.
2. Pat G cam is installed and degreed.
3. AFR 210 will arrive this week or next.
4. TSP SS headers arrived yesterday.
5. Remaining parts to order are misc seals, motor mounts, injectors.
6. 102mm FAST LSXRT will be added later, after I get motor running with base tune by Pat G.
Here are the cam specs:
224/228, .566/.571, 115+1 LSA, XE lobes
SCR = 11.3
DCR = 8.5
This is my first engine build so I do not claim to be an expert, I welcome any criticism/suggestions. This is a hobby for me.
Here are the pics!
Fresh from LKQ online - $400 engine special!
back from the machine shop
aligning 4-leg engine stand with hoist can be a pain in the ***!
setting block on table for cam bearing install
installing new cam bearings with homemade tool
test fit with OEM camshaft
modifying stock rockers for bearing upgrade
pressing in new trunnion bearings with screw vise
dial bore gauge with 0.001mm resolution
setting up dial bore gauge to crank OD dimensions
measuring main bore ID dimensions
measuring rod bore ID dimensions
calibrating rod bolt stretch gauge to 2" micrometer standard
measuring installed stretch of rod bolts (loose rods)
balanced rotating assembly ready for install
I'm traveling to scotland for a couple weeks, so the build and swap will probably not get finished until labor day.
Thanks for looking, more pics to come.
I realize now that for the amount of $$ spent on this build I could have done a 408 or maybe even more, however the scope and budget of this build has evolved significantly since I started it 1 year ago.
Here are the specs:
LM7 block bored to 3.905", line honed with ARP studs, decked to -0.010" by HKE.
Forged balanced stroker rotating assembly by TSP: Wiseco -3cc pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, K1 4" crankshaft.
Assembled by me with mitutoyo instrumentation.
AFR 210 heads, Pat G camshaft, FAST LSXRT 102mm topend and supporting components, 36lb injectors, 1-3/4" SS LT headers.
Tuning by Pat G in Victoria, TX.
The truck is a 2001 suburban 2500 4x4 with the 6.0 engine and 33" tires. It's pretty much stock, however it has dual 3" exhaust with 2 massive cats, 4l80e tranny, 14-bolt rear end with 4.10 gears, so its a good platform for the high hp engine.
Here are my goals for the engine:
1. Torque
2. Longevity
3. Driveability
4. Good peak power at 6k RPMs
Here is the status of the engine today (24 July):
1. Forged shortblock is assembled and ready.
2. Pat G cam is installed and degreed.
3. AFR 210 will arrive this week or next.
4. TSP SS headers arrived yesterday.
5. Remaining parts to order are misc seals, motor mounts, injectors.
6. 102mm FAST LSXRT will be added later, after I get motor running with base tune by Pat G.
Here are the cam specs:
224/228, .566/.571, 115+1 LSA, XE lobes
SCR = 11.3
DCR = 8.5
This is my first engine build so I do not claim to be an expert, I welcome any criticism/suggestions. This is a hobby for me.
Here are the pics!
Fresh from LKQ online - $400 engine special!
back from the machine shop
aligning 4-leg engine stand with hoist can be a pain in the ***!
setting block on table for cam bearing install
installing new cam bearings with homemade tool
test fit with OEM camshaft
modifying stock rockers for bearing upgrade
pressing in new trunnion bearings with screw vise
dial bore gauge with 0.001mm resolution
setting up dial bore gauge to crank OD dimensions
measuring main bore ID dimensions
measuring rod bore ID dimensions
calibrating rod bolt stretch gauge to 2" micrometer standard
measuring installed stretch of rod bolts (loose rods)
balanced rotating assembly ready for install
I'm traveling to scotland for a couple weeks, so the build and swap will probably not get finished until labor day.
Thanks for looking, more pics to come.
Last edited by RezinTexas; 07-24-2012 at 05:20 AM.
#2
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
more pics
studs installed in bare block
crank set in block
torquing main studs
checking to ensure smooth rotation of crank
installing piston pins
installing pistons/rods to block
installing rod caps
confirming correct rod bolt stretch after install
confirming deck height
finished shortblock
studs installed in bare block
crank set in block
torquing main studs
checking to ensure smooth rotation of crank
installing piston pins
installing pistons/rods to block
installing rod caps
confirming correct rod bolt stretch after install
confirming deck height
finished shortblock
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
thanks for the replies.
to be honest, I hadn't thought about modifying the tranny yet. What would you recommend?
The truck will likely never see racing (maybe the TX mile), mostly used for road trips and camping, hardware store trips, etc. Longevity would be key to any tranny modifications Any advice with these goals would be appreciated!
to be honest, I hadn't thought about modifying the tranny yet. What would you recommend?
The truck will likely never see racing (maybe the TX mile), mostly used for road trips and camping, hardware store trips, etc. Longevity would be key to any tranny modifications Any advice with these goals would be appreciated!
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
I wouldnt go with anything too extreme since it is very heavy. Maybe a 2800-3000 converter from circle D in the 258mm diameter. That should get you to some decent torque with this build. Thats not to say that something a hair looser wouldnt help, but I dont think its necessary. That and an oversized tranny cooler would be all you need I think.
With the long first gear of the 80e you're really gonna want the help off the line otherwise it will still feel very sluggish on the street unless youre racing from a roll.
With the long first gear of the 80e you're really gonna want the help off the line otherwise it will still feel very sluggish on the street unless youre racing from a roll.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I wouldnt go with anything too extreme since it is very heavy. Maybe a 2800-3000 converter from circle D in the 258mm diameter. That should get you to some decent torque with this build. Thats not to say that something a hair looser wouldnt help, but I dont think its necessary. That and an oversized tranny cooler would be all you need I think.
With the long first gear of the 80e you're really gonna want the help off the line otherwise it will still feel very sluggish on the street unless youre racing from a roll.
With the long first gear of the 80e you're really gonna want the help off the line otherwise it will still feel very sluggish on the street unless youre racing from a roll.
tranny cooler is a good idea, I think the factory one is very small.