found this on another web site.
11-28-2007, 03:50 PM
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found this on another web site.
Pretty much. I'm gonna do a few edits, but your off to a really good start
Drive shaft won't break at 130, I know I've had mine past 130..Safe? maybe maybe not..my drive shaft isn't very long, whether that has anything to do with it, (I'd imagine it does) I don't know.
Tstats are good when you tune for them, with electric fans you can tune them to come on at cooler temps to have an overall cooler engine. With a cooler T stat you'll have cooler combustion chambers which helps deter pre-detonation, with a right tune you can run more timing.
You can mill the heads to achieve 11:1 compression and still run pump gas, but have a GOOD tune, I recommend a scanning device to monitor. raising the compression 1 full point is good for 10%~ more HP on a stock-ish engine, it's a "might as well" for the price ($70+) I think you have to mill the heads around .050 to get 1 full point. On my motor that would be around 10.5:1 compression vs 9.5 on the stock 62cc heads.
Wait4me's are good for what they are - $158. I'd rather spend that on a W4M and get good results than $400-$500 on a hand held and get minimal results. Dyno or street tune for maximum results. I should be running AT LEAST 14.4's with a dyno tune. Plus they are only around $300 bucks!!!
Cam - don't go too big. People have had better HP gains with my cam VS a Thunder racing 224*. Bigger isn't always better. The TR220 is an excellent cam, and matched with a 3000+ rpm stall should kill some serious time in the 1/4 mile, probably a full second.
Pullies do = few HP, for the money theres MUCH better out there.
I wish everyone on here had the same thought process as you. Sometimes people don't even want to hear that shorty headers don't make much of any power, when in fact it's only the god honest truth they don't..hell long tubes don't even net too much on a stock motor, but with the more mods you do the more beneficial they are. IE LT's on a stock 5.3 might gain 10whp, LT's on a cammed 5.3 might add 16whp ect. Oh well not my money
btw this is not me.. does this guy kno his **** or kinda not really? the t stat thing makes sence tho.
Drive shaft won't break at 130, I know I've had mine past 130..Safe? maybe maybe not..my drive shaft isn't very long, whether that has anything to do with it, (I'd imagine it does) I don't know.
Tstats are good when you tune for them, with electric fans you can tune them to come on at cooler temps to have an overall cooler engine. With a cooler T stat you'll have cooler combustion chambers which helps deter pre-detonation, with a right tune you can run more timing.
You can mill the heads to achieve 11:1 compression and still run pump gas, but have a GOOD tune, I recommend a scanning device to monitor. raising the compression 1 full point is good for 10%~ more HP on a stock-ish engine, it's a "might as well" for the price ($70+) I think you have to mill the heads around .050 to get 1 full point. On my motor that would be around 10.5:1 compression vs 9.5 on the stock 62cc heads.
Wait4me's are good for what they are - $158. I'd rather spend that on a W4M and get good results than $400-$500 on a hand held and get minimal results. Dyno or street tune for maximum results. I should be running AT LEAST 14.4's with a dyno tune. Plus they are only around $300 bucks!!!
Cam - don't go too big. People have had better HP gains with my cam VS a Thunder racing 224*. Bigger isn't always better. The TR220 is an excellent cam, and matched with a 3000+ rpm stall should kill some serious time in the 1/4 mile, probably a full second.
Pullies do = few HP, for the money theres MUCH better out there.
I wish everyone on here had the same thought process as you. Sometimes people don't even want to hear that shorty headers don't make much of any power, when in fact it's only the god honest truth they don't..hell long tubes don't even net too much on a stock motor, but with the more mods you do the more beneficial they are. IE LT's on a stock 5.3 might gain 10whp, LT's on a cammed 5.3 might add 16whp ect. Oh well not my money
btw this is not me.. does this guy kno his **** or kinda not really? the t stat thing makes sence tho.
11-28-2007, 04:17 PM
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I wouldnt say he knows his ****, but it is good information...
My driveshaft on my 03 ecsb didnt break at 149mph. Didnt even have any vibrations at that speed. Would I say it's safe? hell nooo!!! lol I dont think hes right on the LT's though...Ive seen 20+ hp gains in my experience.
My driveshaft on my 03 ecsb didnt break at 149mph. Didnt even have any vibrations at that speed. Would I say it's safe? hell nooo!!! lol I dont think hes right on the LT's though...Ive seen 20+ hp gains in my experience.
11-28-2007, 04:42 PM
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heres another one.
A 6.0 swap is always good, if you mill the heads on a Lq4 *however* much it will add up to the Vortec Max compression, they have higher compression but I'm pretty sure it's from the pistons. Headers will swap over, almost everything will swap over, a big plus. But if you put a cam in the 5.3 it will net less in the 6.0, cubic inches eat cams. If your set on a 6.0 swap and want to get a cam now, I'd get something a little too big for the 5.3. Something too big is a complete opinion though. The TR224 cam we mentioned earlier isn't a bad cam, just don't go overkill. Some cams with high duration like that can net the same or not much more power than a relatively smaller duration cam, but the bigger duration cam will move the power band higher in the RPM range, hints a bigger stalled torque converter. Just don't go looking for 5 more HP and get something rediculous that you have to rev to 8000 rpm to make power....unless it's mainly a drag strip set up. I think a 224 would be great in a 6.0, it would be great in a 5.3 too. For the ultimate cam google search a guy named Patrick G. He's a cam spec scientist. For $25 or so he'll spec you excellent cam specs, Thunder racing and Comp cams will grind you whatever specs you give them.
A 6.0 swap is always good, if you mill the heads on a Lq4 *however* much it will add up to the Vortec Max compression, they have higher compression but I'm pretty sure it's from the pistons. Headers will swap over, almost everything will swap over, a big plus. But if you put a cam in the 5.3 it will net less in the 6.0, cubic inches eat cams. If your set on a 6.0 swap and want to get a cam now, I'd get something a little too big for the 5.3. Something too big is a complete opinion though. The TR224 cam we mentioned earlier isn't a bad cam, just don't go overkill. Some cams with high duration like that can net the same or not much more power than a relatively smaller duration cam, but the bigger duration cam will move the power band higher in the RPM range, hints a bigger stalled torque converter. Just don't go looking for 5 more HP and get something rediculous that you have to rev to 8000 rpm to make power....unless it's mainly a drag strip set up. I think a 224 would be great in a 6.0, it would be great in a 5.3 too. For the ultimate cam google search a guy named Patrick G. He's a cam spec scientist. For $25 or so he'll spec you excellent cam specs, Thunder racing and Comp cams will grind you whatever specs you give them.
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11-28-2007, 08:45 PM
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Big difference between that site and this one...they're basically a general GM truck site with a performance section, while this is a performance oriented site with some general sections lol. I used to find some good info there a while back though, as far as TSB's and common problems...haven't hung at that site for a few years now.