giant sewing machine
03-08-2005, 10:25 AM
#21
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If you throw in a lightweight spring - like one used for degreeing in a cam - the method SHOULD work....?
I wasn't thinking about the non-adjustable factory rocker thing though. The stock lifters can accomodate up to .120" preload... but I hear .060 at a mininum, to .080 or .090 - and some say up to .120 is optimal.
I'm not getting anywhere with finding that info about pushrod length. I was looking at angle-milling a set of heads about a month back, and it may have been pertaining to that.
Was the motor making noise before the rockers decided to loosen up?
I'm just wondering if there was a lot of clatter before you needed that tow... and if the clatter was part of the reason why the rockers loosened up.
I don't see how he couldn't torque them properly -- unless he completely forgot to do a few of them. Even with some valves being open under a .550" producing lobe, putting 22ft/lbs of torque on the rocker bolt, then turning the motor over so the valve is closed will not let me put any more rotation on the bolt.
Another thing, I always use lock-tite. I wonder if he used any?
I wasn't thinking about the non-adjustable factory rocker thing though. The stock lifters can accomodate up to .120" preload... but I hear .060 at a mininum, to .080 or .090 - and some say up to .120 is optimal.
I'm not getting anywhere with finding that info about pushrod length. I was looking at angle-milling a set of heads about a month back, and it may have been pertaining to that.
Was the motor making noise before the rockers decided to loosen up?
I'm just wondering if there was a lot of clatter before you needed that tow... and if the clatter was part of the reason why the rockers loosened up.
I don't see how he couldn't torque them properly -- unless he completely forgot to do a few of them. Even with some valves being open under a .550" producing lobe, putting 22ft/lbs of torque on the rocker bolt, then turning the motor over so the valve is closed will not let me put any more rotation on the bolt.
Another thing, I always use lock-tite. I wonder if he used any?
03-08-2005, 07:03 PM
#22
Today I swapped out the 7.35 rockers for 7.4 and no more giant sewing machine a good friend who is a mechanic told me the lifters have .100 range in them so they can soak up what the heads were milled. I put in one piece chromemolly pushrods, no balltip just an oil hole.
Now for the problem, I swear if it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all.
After locktighting rockers and replacing rods on one side I get to the other (driver side)
on number 3rd cyl back, one of the rocker arm studs was stripped off
I tried everything pliers, even pounding a smaller 7 socket onto it and nothing I had to reassemble the ****** and leave the short rod in.
I dont know what to do
Ive thought about getting a small air chisel bit and chopping it off, but I dont want to run the risk on damaging any threads in the head.
WHAT THE **** Im really getting sick of this **** its all from this piece of **** install and Im really not happy. I can even hear that one valve making noise because of the shorter rod.
Any ideas are welcome and appreciated
Oh and on a side note what the **** is gm thinking putting soft *** metal on rocker arm studs, I can bite the rocker arm studs and leave marks. And theyre supposed to be torqued to 23 ft/lbs
If I cant figure how to get the rocker off Im taking a cutter to the whole ******* assembly and buying new rockers. Damnit Im pissed
Now for the problem, I swear if it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all.
After locktighting rockers and replacing rods on one side I get to the other (driver side)
on number 3rd cyl back, one of the rocker arm studs was stripped off
I tried everything pliers, even pounding a smaller 7 socket onto it and nothing I had to reassemble the ****** and leave the short rod in.
I dont know what to do
Ive thought about getting a small air chisel bit and chopping it off, but I dont want to run the risk on damaging any threads in the head.
WHAT THE **** Im really getting sick of this **** its all from this piece of **** install and Im really not happy. I can even hear that one valve making noise because of the shorter rod.
Any ideas are welcome and appreciated
Oh and on a side note what the **** is gm thinking putting soft *** metal on rocker arm studs, I can bite the rocker arm studs and leave marks. And theyre supposed to be torqued to 23 ft/lbs
If I cant figure how to get the rocker off Im taking a cutter to the whole ******* assembly and buying new rockers. Damnit Im pissed
03-08-2005, 07:30 PM
#23
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I would not in any way try to break off the head unless you have no other option. Is this on of the bolts that the incompenent mechanic installed? It might be crossed in there and now the heat has got a hold of it. Aluminum can be a bitch. I don't know if it is possible, but Craftsman makes a socket like tool to grab and dig into the head of the bolt. I would look into something of that sort before breaking it. If it is that tight though, the threads might just come out with it
03-08-2005, 07:58 PM
#24
This is one of the rockers that was very loose completely off the valve stem, its got lock tight on it and its torqued to 25 ft/lbs. Im going out to my machinist tomorrow, this guy builds funny car engines and if he cant help me Im SOL. It runs fine now just got anoying chatter from the shorter rod.
has anyone else had problems with turned rocker arm bolts?
has anyone else had problems with turned rocker arm bolts?
03-08-2005, 08:11 PM
#25
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The steel, aluminum, and loctite combo could be a problem. I know some of mine have been hard to break after being torqued to 22 ft.lbs. Big Tex will chime in and have an idea. Good luck.
03-08-2005, 10:04 PM
#26
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can you get a grip on it?
If all else fails drill the head off
or dremmel tool
youre gonna have a mess to clean up though
hell you allready do from the way it sounds
If all else fails drill the head off
or dremmel tool
youre gonna have a mess to clean up though
hell you allready do from the way it sounds
03-08-2005, 10:44 PM
#27
Originally Posted by gamedawgx53
can you get a grip on it?
If all else fails drill the head off
or dremmel tool
youre gonna have a mess to clean up though
hell you allready do from the way it sounds
If all else fails drill the head off
or dremmel tool
youre gonna have a mess to clean up though
hell you allready do from the way it sounds
03-08-2005, 11:05 PM
#28
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try that craftsman tool
mattrem was talking about
before you go cuttin on it
they work pretty good
if not just keep rounding it off till its gone
or drill it
they should work though
if not
still a good set to have around
mattrem was talking about
before you go cuttin on it
they work pretty good
if not just keep rounding it off till its gone
or drill it
they should work though
if not
still a good set to have around
03-09-2005, 09:16 PM
#29
the craftsman tool works like a charm very easy and it really bites into the bolt head. I love good tools
The longer pushrods helped with the valvetrain noise tremendously, I still have some valve clatter sort of sounds like a little diesel if you listen close. Im hoping the tune will take care of it Ive got alot of KR and a huge amount of timing being pulled, needs tuning badly. I think tuning will quiet down the valves, outside of that I might even go with slightly longer than stock pushrods as I believe the cam has a smaller base circle with aggressive ramps and high lift = noisy valves
The longer pushrods helped with the valvetrain noise tremendously, I still have some valve clatter sort of sounds like a little diesel if you listen close. Im hoping the tune will take care of it Ive got alot of KR and a huge amount of timing being pulled, needs tuning badly. I think tuning will quiet down the valves, outside of that I might even go with slightly longer than stock pushrods as I believe the cam has a smaller base circle with aggressive ramps and high lift = noisy valves
03-09-2005, 09:20 PM
#30
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You did use the Craftsman tool? I was thinking it wouldn't fit in there after I thought of it.
I think the pushrods really help out, more preload= quieter valvetrain. I just don't know if it robs power. I quess what scares me about it is collapsing a lifter.
I think the pushrods really help out, more preload= quieter valvetrain. I just don't know if it robs power. I quess what scares me about it is collapsing a lifter.