eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It takes a lot of torque to crack the locktite on the rocker bolts. Use a 3/8ths drive breaker bar and an 8mm 6pt. socket. Give them a quick hard turn and you'll hear a popping sound when the locktite gives. The bolts can be turned out by hand once the locktite is broken except for the once that are being forced open by the cam. As far as the valves are concerned you can't drop a valve if you have the piston at TDC when you unload the spring because the piston crowns come slightly above the deck at TDC. You will have to spin the crank to get each cylinder to TDC as you service each one. I use a chopstick I got for free at a Chinese resturant to find TDC. If you can afford it nows the time to do the double timing chain and ported oil pump. That's more work, but since you'll be removing the cover anyway you might as well do it now rather than do double work later if you have plans to change these parts in the future. Some Jesel shaft mounts or CC Pro Mags wouldn't hurt either. Hey, it's only money. If you switch to stud mounted rockers you'll have to upgrade the pushrod because the OEM ones get gauled where the rub on the guides.

BenKey

iTrader: (1)

Tbyrne also also sells a pretty good spring compressor tool that even comes with the spark plug hole air fitting, if that is the way you'll be doing the springs. I used the lever type that I bought at NAPA for about $7 to get them out and used the compressor I got from Tbyrne for the new springs. If you have help the TDC method is very easy. All you have to do is remove the plug, put your finger over the hole, have someone turn the engine over, and when you feel the air escaping, keep turning just to the point that you feel it sucking and you're there.

You could need help with the radiator, lifting it out of the way. Both my cam swaps, I just pulled it out. Not that much more work and just made things much easier.

My rocker studs were not hard to break at all. Have a few 8mm sockets though. I broke two Craftsman sockets last time.

Just for insurance, new pusrods would be a good idea. They're about $125. A new timing chain is not needed, nor is a new pump. Those are just some things you may want to do. I did both on my last one. New pump was $149, double rollmaster chain was $65. Fairly easy for both swaps and covered in the how-to article.

tuckerwilliam

Thanks for the good info guys. Since I only have 26K I'm not gonna replace my oil pump or timing chain right now. I'm 99% sure I'll change cams in the future and will do it then. As for pushrods, cheap insurance, and they're definitely going in with the new springs. I'm still hung up on the titanium retainers. I know they're not necessary, but it seems to lighten up the valve train and give a little extra insurance, so If I can find some cheap...I may do it. This is the only thing I'm riding the fence on right now. It's strictly a cost thing though, if I had a ton of bread to burn I'd put all the stuff in new!!

BenKey

iTrader: (1)

If I were 99% sure I was going back in there, then I would plan the titanium retainers for the next time. There will not be a noticeable diff that you'll be able to tell anyway. They're not that cheap.

tuckerwilliam

True, how true...goood suggestion!!!!!