Got my LPP LT's, and am very disappointed!
#1
Got my LPP LT's, and am very disappointed!
As the title says, I ordered new LPP Long tubes, and can't help but feel very disappointed...THAT I CAN'T INSTALL THESE BADASS PIECES OF TUBING TODAY!! I'm working 10 hours a day for the next 4 days... UGH!! So I need my truck ready at all times for the next few days. Throughout that period perhaps you may assist me on a few questions I have.
For one, would it be worth it to ceramic coat stainless steel headers? Problem is, If i do a bit of off-roading, I'm assuming i'd eventually chip at the coat gradually.
For two, I've been told that no welding is necessary with this setup and that the clamps should work just fine??? Is this true? Doesn't seem as if the system will be properly airtight.
And last thing, anything I should know that you guys have experienced when uninstalling the old, installing the new? I've only installed headers on old muscle cars before, so is there perhaps something about removing the old system that requires anything more than patience and unscrewing bolts?
Thanks peeps!
For one, would it be worth it to ceramic coat stainless steel headers? Problem is, If i do a bit of off-roading, I'm assuming i'd eventually chip at the coat gradually.
For two, I've been told that no welding is necessary with this setup and that the clamps should work just fine??? Is this true? Doesn't seem as if the system will be properly airtight.
And last thing, anything I should know that you guys have experienced when uninstalling the old, installing the new? I've only installed headers on old muscle cars before, so is there perhaps something about removing the old system that requires anything more than patience and unscrewing bolts?
Thanks peeps!
#3
PB blaster for sure and a nut removal tool made for stripped nut heads is nice to have on hand, the stock collector bots like to round off. A thread chaser for the header bolts is good to have on hand, I have had some gall on me a little, but not always. I recomend new bolts or studs. Stage 8 stainless bolts are less than 40 bucks but are very nice pieces... or 100 dollar ARP studs Try to wear gloves as much as possible to keep em pretty, lol. Get band clamps and ditch the u-bolts A steped band clamp will not work without notching though on the passenger collector due to bung placement. I used a flat 1" wide band clamp there. I also used hi temp copper based rtv (sensor safe). Just a thin bead on the slip joints before assembly and not a leak to be found. Bonus is they slip right back apart if needed!
#6
Baltimore Whore
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
Like stated..Spray some type of lube on all the old clamps exc... Get ride of the reg muffler clamps and get you some band clamps.. Don't rush trying to put them on and taking the old ones off, thats when **** gets broke..
#7
PB blaster for sure and a nut removal tool made for stripped nut heads is nice to have on hand, the stock collector bots like to round off. A thread chaser for the header bolts is good to have on hand, I have had some gall on me a little, but not always. I recomend new bolts or studs. Stage 8 stainless bolts are less than 40 bucks but are very nice pieces... or 100 dollar ARP studs Try to wear gloves as much as possible to keep em pretty, lol. Get band clamps and ditch the u-bolts A steped band clamp will not work without notching though on the passenger collector due to bung placement. I used a flat 1" wide band clamp there. I also used hi temp copper based rtv (sensor safe). Just a thin bead on the slip joints before assembly and not a leak to be found. Bonus is they slip right back apart if needed!
Ok, these a great tips and suggestions. I had never heard of PB blaster, already started applying WD-40. But after reading some reviews and everyone agreeing in those reviews it's much better than WD-40, I'll pick some up.
As for the U-bolts, I've heard from quite a few to ditch them before I even ordered the LT's. So, I'll go for Band Clamps. and i never though about exhaust sealant, I'll also grab some of that.
LPP's already come with nuts and bolts, anyone know what grade they are? Want to make sure they don't snap like they did on my manifold.
Other than that I have wonderous tools for rounded off bolt heads and all. My biggest concern is more of them snapping off. I already have two broken on one side from old age 2 months ago. And Am PRAYING that with a few hits of the hammer, some lubricant, vice grips and a Gatorhead socket, I can remove them. Prob is as far as anything needing drilling is concerned, I'd be screwed because of the impossibly tight space.
Thanks for the tips guys, if anyone has any others, write them in, I'll stop by once in a while.
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#8
The LPP studs just look cheap to me... I believe in quality fasteners, that's all. I would reuse the stockers before I used those that came with it... Oh yeah, if the stock manifold gaskets are in good shape, reuse them. If not I would buy new OEM gaskets. Dont skimp there.
#9
The LPP studs just look cheap to me... I believe in quality fasteners, that's all. I would reuse the stockers before I used those that came with it... Oh yeah, if the stock manifold gaskets are in good shape, reuse them. If not I would buy new OEM gaskets. Dont skimp there.
Big word to that, I'm running Percey's locking fasteners on mine and I love them. I bought them over the Stage 8's because I like their design much better and they come in full Stainless, which looks cool lol! I also reused my 150,000 mile stock manifold gaskets and I only have one itty bitty tiny leak on the passenger side where I screwed up the gasket while putting the headers on.
Oh, and a sawzall, ya know, just in case!