Zick

iTrader: (18)

In my endeavor to fix my exhaust leak, I cannot get the back driver side exhaust bolt out cause it broke and is just below the surface. I already tried the welded nut trick (which worked on a couple other broken bolts) but I can't get a straight shot w/ the mig gun to get a good bead on it.

So it looks like I'm gonna pull the head. Figure I'm gonna have to get at least these items (head gasket, head bolts, and exhaust gasket).

Since I'm just doing the one head, I found that summit sells Felpro head gaskets individually for about $18. Any thought on these?

Also found head bolts by Felpro for about $24 from summit too, guessing these will be just as good as stock?

Trying not to spend a fortune to repair as I've seen GM gaskets going for about $80 and about $50 for head bolts.
Not sure if I can re-use the exhaust gasket or not.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

if it's still on the block, bolt up the manifolds and leave it alone. more than likely it's not going to leak.

The newer trucks with an exhaust bolt head that is a 13 vs the 10mm

Zick

iTrader: (18)

This is why I am fixing it in the first place, because it did leak to begin with.
When did they start using the 13mm bolt? Also, does that mean only the head on the bolt is larger or the entire bolt is physically larger?


Also, I just realized that head gasket from Felpro (Q9199PT) is not mls like GM but a composite w/ steel core laminated and it's bore size is 4.090". Size the 6.0 bore size is 4.00", isn't 4.090" a little large?
What is GM's stock MLS gasket size?

Torquerolljoe

I have done a ton of these repairs in our shop. This is how I do it without removing the head. You have to remove the mechanical fan and shroud if your truck has it. What you do is use a floor jack and a block of wood and take the load of the engine off of the frame so you can remove the driver's side motor mount. Once completely removed, you lower the engine so you can gain a straight shot to the rear exhaust bolt. You will have to remove your driver's side tire, wheelhouse cover, etc. Then use a sharp drill bit and extract it as normal. I usually heat around the broken bolt with a propane torch to soften the loctite the factory uses. Works like a champ for me and it saves the customer a butt load of money vs taking the head off.

Joseph

Zick

iTrader: (18)

Joseph,
Thanks for that tip, I will definately look into trying that!
So will the engine lower down far enough with it still attached to the trans?

Torquerolljoe

The engine will tilt over to the driver's side since there is no mount. The trans will not hit anything. The engine will hit before the trans will. Sometimes it helps to remove the steering intermediate shaft as well. It will give even more clearance and it's just two bolts!!!

Joseph

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

just the head of the bolt is larger, the body/thread is the same

GMs MLS head gasket is a 4.030.

KleenHall

i have welded a washer to the bolt then a nut to the washer and use a wrench to get it out

Zick

iTrader: (18)

Yup, been trying to do that too but like I said it's in such a tight spot that I'm having a hard time getting a good bead on straight. Basically the gun is forced into almost a 45* angle and only get a bead on one side which usually rips off before the bolt turns.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Im using the fel pro gaskets, no problem so far. I dont remember which one I bought though. Quite a few people have been using the fel pro gaskets lately with great luck. Ill test it here in a couple months with boost and see how it goes. I also used the cheapo TTY headbolts from summit. I think Ive got 80 bucks in my HG and HBs