Bonedog

For a NA 5.3 with only a few bolt on mods which would be better??

I just want firmer shifts and improved performance from what I got. I probably never will add any power adders(cam, S/C, NOS, headwork) so what would be more cost effective?

My Superchips 2715 tuner set at 91 octane with firmness increased

A mail order tune from any one of the companies

or a day on the dyno and have LS1 Edit or HPTuner done?

Money seems to be close to the same for all these I guess.. don't know about the dyno tune but what will benifit me the best?

Look at my sig for my mods and you can see it is basically exaust and intake bolt ons.

Thanks for any help

cstchevy

I would go with the mail order, since you'll probably upgrade a few times and teak things it might be in the best interest. can't beat dyno tuning but I wouldn't wan't to pay $120 or whatever it is everytime to get it right or I change something.

F8L Z71

I'm with CST,

Dyno tunes are not going to give you squat but maybe extra HP. Driveability is not a concern on the dyno so personally I think it's a waste of time and money UNLESS you plan on street tuning it also. The best tune would be someone local who knows their stuff than can street tune and dyno tune it. Short of that go with a reliable mail order tune and you'll get the best results. Most of them will have done plenty of dyno tunes and can translate some of that experience into your mail order tune and you'll usually see decent results on both the dyno and street.

zippy

i'd recomend buying the hp tuners and tuning it on the dyno. this will be a good place to learn on it and future updates won't be a problem if you're doing the programming yourself.

TigerFan187

iTrader: (1)

I rank them in this order---1st being the best and last being the worst
1.-Dyno tune(done by a tuner or by you-Edit/Hp)driving between the dyno runs
2.-Mail order(small margin between this & dynotune at least with Allen Nelson
he basiclly perfected mine)
3.-Hand held(Predator supposed to be best.I had the Hypertech and it is trash)

Mr. Sandog

I've got HPT and quickly became overwhelmed trying to learn both it and what to do with the logged data. I wish there were someone near who could show me what's up. What I've done so far is log a couple of dyno runs and some normal driving around town, but I have no idea what the data mean or how to adjust for things (like my overly rich condition). Buying the tool and tuning looks good on paper, but it's going to take a lot of time and work to learn the tools and how to use them properly. My $.02.

Gordy M

iTrader: (2)

The Hand held tune will give you some basic prower/shifting/fan control and a noticable improvement. A dyno tune will give you maximum WOT tuning capabilities as well as shifting and fan control improvements. A custom tune (especially with an Ease or Elive scan will give you optimal WOT, low end, and intermediate performance as well as the shifting and fan control.

If you buy your own LS1 edit and have a custom tune, make sure you have ver 1.5 or better or I would not let the dealership reflash your PCM. As a side note the PCM only has 512K of info in 8 segments, The edit software only addresses the last 80K in the higher segments. The Corvettes are being reflashed because of column lock issues and and the change is in segment 1. The older versions of LS1 edit will not work as a results

FWIW

kickassT/A

iTrader: (2)

i know someone who picked up 17 rwhp with a mti dyno tune over a predator. this was on an f body, but if i were you, i would spring for the dyno tune. i'm going to have to do the same thing on my 5.3l powered cj5 in a few months

Bonedog

ok I don't have the time/laptop/ or knowledge to do this myself. If it was a carb I would have done it already.. this computer stuff worries me too much..I will leave it to the pros.

What is this street tuning everyone is saying?? You mean have the tuner just drive my truck then tune from that standpoint? And use a dyno for WOT pulls only?

Wouldn't the mail order or the programmer be able to tune just the same if it is street driven?

I am really confused now

F8L Z71

Street tuning is where you drive the truck around with the tuner sitting passanger. He will log data under various driving contitions like part throttle, WOT, quick braking (IAC count really screws up idle quality and this test can confirm potential drivability issues like stalling out and surging at stop signs), shift points and more importantly downshift points because who the hell wants to downshift into 3rd at 60mph when they could have easily shifting into 2nd and really hauled *** right?

There is alot of stuff that can and often needs to be tuned for on the street to make a truck run smooth. Stockish trucks wont benifit much other than the shifting stuff and some added timing or TQ managment removal but add a decent sized cam into the picture and a street tune is a must. I have seen lots of DYNO tuned cars that are a bitch to drive in traffic because of their poor drivability. In turn I have seen cars with much more radical setups that drive like stock because they were street tuned. Just depends on how much you wanna spend. The tune in my truck currently would probably cost $500 because we spent over 6hrs loggin data, changing parameters, and loggin data over and over till we got it right. Even with the turbo, 3000 stall and a 226cam the thing drives better than stock or even my buddies stock 01' 6.0L HD (which I was driving while my cars were down).