zippy

i was referring to the guy mentioning the hd 14 bolt. no way i'd run anything other than the 8.6 10 bolt unless i couldn't make it work. with a good set up ring and pinion with a detriot locker it should be plenty strong for fast passes.

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

G80 broke first. a piece (pretty big) of metal then got stuck in the ring and pinion and fucked everything up. My pinion broke to pieces. i would recommend an aftermarket posi at the least to anyone who drives hard or just races occationally. Changing the posi will help a lot. A posi change is also a lot cheaper and easier than a gear and posi change. A posi is like 325 and about 150 to install it. What I'm doing is going to cost like a grand, so I would recommend a litle preventative maint. All the places I have called said the OEM gears are the strongest and quietest (and most expensive too!), so I guess the primary weak link is the posi.

MacADaYear

Yea thats what I thought.

I think scream means more then breaking the stock g80, we all know thats weak
Eaton posi is where its at

Scream

iTrader: (6)

MacADaYear

So since were talking about it, what would break besides the posi/ring&pinion?

Bearings? Axles?

snoman

I have seen serveral in freinds trucks over tha last 20 years. Mostly axle and spiders (front and rear axles) and one ring and pinion. I have seen several bent housings on lifted trucks too. I have never has one gernade on me (tore the spiders out of a D60 once pulling it too hard with a few tons in the back!) because I have only owned one in a 4x4 burb I still have (but the gears are getting noisy now) because all my other trucks and 4x4's have have Dana or 14 bolt rear axles because I will not own a P/U with a 10 bolt in it in the rear because I buy a truck for a truck, not a car and I do no like even the change of failure if I can help it.

Scream

iTrader: (6)

The only thing my truck hauls is ***. And me.

Just remember Snoman than most people around here aren't running lifted trucks w/ 35s. I have a 2wd w/ 27's.

BADMOFO

I think it would rob way too much power to justify running a 14 bolt rear with a 10.5" ring gear. I've seen plenty of 10 bolts hold up against power, but the best alternative for replacing the stock rear would either be a 9 inch ford, which could have any ends welded onto it, and doesn't need a c-clip eliminator as it doesn't use c-clips to hold the axles in....or a GM 12 bolt (which has a 8 and 3/4" ring gear) which can also handle substantial power without needing as much power to turn it as the 9". The thought of a 14 bolt rear with a 10.5" ring gear in a truck that makes 300-400 rear wheel is absurd. Get an auburn posi and at most a set of axles for the stock rear and it will hold up to just about any truck on this board...with the exception of a few.

Chingon

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know That's why I said you'd have to get custom hubs. If you launch a 2wd on slicks with some nitrous or say 6-7psi for example, the posi could handle it, but what about the 10-bolt housing? Is it that robust or would it flex? I've read about some guys saying that their differentials leak.

Seeing Red Again

Ditto. Although you don't need c-clip eliminators on a full floating 14 bolt since the wheels are not supported by the axle shafts. Our 10 bolt has 30 spline axle shafts and a decent size ring gear unlike the car guys, and I doubt many people will grenade axle shafts or ring/pinion without help from a failed carrier.

Wheel hop is what will break an axle shaft. Keep your tires firmly planted on the ground (or even free spinning without hop) and a strong aftermarket carrier / posi and you will be fine.