Im about to put put some 243's on my 6.0 which is an 04 motor with all short 15mm headbolts. And I was wondering if you still do the same torque sequence as pre 04's. First pass is 22ftlbs and then 90 degrees and then an additional 90 on bolts 1-8 and 50 degrees on bolts 9 and 10. So since they are all short on the 04 and up trucks do you only do 50 degrees on all 10 bolts on the finall pass?

thanks

 

here is an ls1 write up I found

Now, grab a socket wrench and lightly turn the bolts until they stop. Now for the very precice part. You need to get your torque wrench out now and fit it with a 3" extension and a 15mm socket.


Using the sequence illustrated above, torque all 10 15mm bolts to 22lb-ft.


Ok, now for a GREAT tip from Scott99Z. Take a felt tip marker and draw a horizontal line on the head of each bolt. This is very important.

Now, using the sequence illustrated above, turn all 10 15mm bolts an additional 90 degrees using a large socket wrench and a lot of muscle. Try to get as close to 90 degrees as possible...you may have to do multiple turns of 30 degrees or 2 turns of 45 degrees. When done all the lines on the bolt heads should be totally vertical.

Next, again using the sequence above, turn bolts 1 through 8 another 90 degrees. This will take an immense amount of effort...if you have a buddy helping both of you should turn the wrench simultaniously. These 8 bolts will now all have horizontal lines on them

Using the sequence above, turn bolts 9 and 10 an additional 50 degrees. Again, this will take a lot of effort. 50 degrees should result in a diagonal line on the bolts

Finally, using the sequence above, torque bolts 11 through 15 to 22 lb-ft.

 

 

33 views and not one reply, did I post this in the wrong section?

 

I edited the post to reflect the differences between the older and newer blocks.

1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts. Tighten
a. Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 N•m (22 lb ft).

b. Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using a torque angle meter.

c. Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using a torque angle meter.

d. Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 N•m (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

2. Tighten the second design engine block cylinder head bolts. Tighten
a. Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 N•m (22 lb ft).

b. Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using a torque angle meter.

c. Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass in sequence to 70 degrees using a torque angle meter.

d. Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 N•m (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

HeadBolts.gif?t=1274416275

 

so it doesnt matter weather you have long and short bolts, or all shorts

 

No, it does matter. I edited my above post to reflect both styles of blocks/head bolts.

 

Right on, Thanks for the help

 

Absolutely, marking the bolts insures that you get your full 90*...I used to do a lot of head gaskets on Toyota's which are also a torque angle procedure and marked the bolts every time, as instructed by Toyota...sometimes you would think that you went 90* then look at the head of the bolt to see that you've only gone about 80* lol, and have to tug a little more...

definitely a good tip