Next year I may be in a position to get a daily driver, and make my truck more of a project. I'd like to start planning early so any minor things I do now wont be a waste of money or anything. Overall I just want to have a solid goal and have a plan how to get there.

At this point I'm thinking reliable high 11's....not sure how much hp were talking, maybe around 475-500 rwhp. And I'm sure at that point I'll be wanting more anyways....so lets say a max of 600hp.

I'd like to keep the Radix if possible, and I'll most likely get a FLP level 5 trans. Heres where I need help deciding:

Cam/Heads option: How much more power are we talking with a pretty aggressive cam? I'm thinking I'd have to pulley back up to get about 8psi out of the Radix - is this possible? how much boost is possible?

Built 408: maybe combine with cam/heads option, but again, how much power and how would it affect boost?

Nitrous: I've blown up a s/c motor with 12psi + 50 shot on a conservative tune, so I'm a bit weary of this option, but lets face it, its the cheapest+easiest option. I was thinking maybe a progressive controlled 150-200 shot. Would the Radix fuel system support this? would 8-10psi and a 150 shot be too much?

I realise I'm at the stock 5.3's limit or even way past it with all this, but I'd like to see how much it can take. I'd use ARP hardware wherever possible as well.

Other questions: what driveshaft? does anyone on here have a rollcage? will the Yank3k and Eaton posi hold up? Which data monitoring setup should I look at - atap, efilive?

 

Well atleast I can help with one thing... the driveshaft.
Im running stock but that will be out soon. Your choices are pretty much gettin the stock shaft upgraded or getting a nice piece made. Denny's driveshafts can make you up a nice aluminum shaft for about 700-800. This is fully built with upgraded 1350 ujoints etc. Thats my next move as far as driveshafts go. Let me know if you find a better alternative.

Oh yea, the problem with the shortcab driveshafts are they are one piece and over 60 inches long (mine is 61") so you will be paying extra since its so long.
I would look at HP tuners for tuning. You get the scan and edit software together and alot of members have been recomending HP tuners

 

Forget about the drive shaft, if this is a 1/2 ton the first thing you want to do with your plans is loose the weak 10 bolt rear axle. Look around for a 9.5 14 bolt semi floater with 6 lug hubs on it (not the 10.5 full floater) It is a LOT stronger than the 10 bolt and you will not have to "worry" about it as your HP increases yet is is a lot lighter than the 10.5 14 bolt full floater and also has more locker options as well than the 10.5. I would also use a MINIMUM of a 4.10 in it even deeper if you use big tires.

 

Does that all work with the ABS system? Is it just a bolt on type mod or are there some things that have to be done to make it work? Also would a new driveshaft be needed for that swap?

 

No problem with ABS because it was used in some ABS trucks (some Z71's had one and the old LD 3/4 ton OBS trrucks had this rear end too). You might have to match u-joint flanges but that is a small problem that is easily overcome. Stock drive shaft "should" work with worst case senerio requiring you to shorten it a inch or two (shortening is not too expensive) and rebalance it. If you get one out of the correct body style, it is a bolt on perch and spring wise too. In my book GM should have scraped the 10 bolt 8.5 long ago in trucks as even Dodge and Ford use stronger rear ends in their 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's. The 9.5 14 bolt is pretty stout axle, housing and gear wise and will handle up to 38's or so and is more than up to your growth requirements while keeping your truck mostly "stock" in driveline looks with off the shelf GM parts.

 

I want a built forged 370. My plan is just to go one part at a time. Do you think a 4L65 will hold that kind of power?? With what you are looking to do, I think you may have to go back to the drawing board. With that kind of investment I would start with a built 4L80, built 370, and a turbo. I love that dream

 

it sure is a wet one (370+4L80E+TURBO=INSANE)

 

So the 10 bolt wouldn't hold up to 500hp? What would be the first part to break?

 

No hard rule, it depends on how you abuse it though stock axles and spider gears are the weak link. Yes you can beef up the axles and beef up the side gears and so on but it still will not be a strong overall as a stock 9.5 14 bolt full floater either and through added stress on gears and housing. Nor has it as big a LSD unit as the 9.5 because of more limited room inside the ring gear for the "pig". Look at Ford and Dodge and they all offer stronger stock rear axles in their 1/2ton trucks and SUV's. If you just cruise the 10 bolt will work fine but if HP and 1/4 mile times or heavy towing is your game the 10 bolt is a poor longterm choice and GM has not dumped it yet for profit reasons not because it is a great axle, but because it is cheap to use. There used to be a time the you could about never blow a rear end in a car or truck as they were over built like they should be but those days are long gone in 1/2 ton GM trucks built today.

 

10 bolt will hold up to that much power with an eaton-gears and bearing upgrades. i believe that is a lot of work when the 10 bolt is holding up for people on here with that much power and more.