Help me identify my metal shavings!!
#61
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Sorry to hear about that. If that happened to me, I would be opting for a high quality stroked billet steel crank shaft.
Hard to believe that those particular threads would have strippped before the bolt threads gave out.
Did you replace the crank bolt everytime you removed it? I've heard they should only be used once. Then again, that should have only hurt the crank bolt IMO.
Jim
Hard to believe that those particular threads would have strippped before the bolt threads gave out.
Did you replace the crank bolt everytime you removed it? I've heard they should only be used once. Then again, that should have only hurt the crank bolt IMO.
Jim
#62
I was using the old one to pull the pulley back onto the crank, then I was going to use a new one to torque all the way down. I think there was something wrong with the threads when I bought the motor. I had one of the other bolts early on strip and leave material in the threads, so I had to use a chaser to clean it out. Probably damaged them more in the process.
#63
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Originally Posted by thunder550
I was using the old one to pull the pulley back onto the crank, then I was going to use a new one to torque all the way down. I think there was something wrong with the threads when I bought the motor. I had one of the other bolts early on strip and leave material in the threads, so I had to use a chaser to clean it out. Probably damaged them more in the process.
#64
Originally Posted by kbracing96
That's how you striped it??? Remember when I showed you that neat little trick of throwing the pulley in the oven for 10 min and it slides right on???
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I was unaware of how exactly you stripped the threads. If you use a bolt to press the pulley on you will have to use a longer bolt to start with. There was most likely nothing wrong with the crank threads, if you use the stock length bolt to begin with you are not catching on enough threads for it to hold the torque required to install it.
I always just grease up the crank snout and use a propane torch to heat the end of the balancer for about 30-60 seconds and it slides all the way on with no problem. I then use the old bolt to ensure it is all the way on and then tq a new one on per spec.
I always just grease up the crank snout and use a propane torch to heat the end of the balancer for about 30-60 seconds and it slides all the way on with no problem. I then use the old bolt to ensure it is all the way on and then tq a new one on per spec.
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so chris are you going to find out some way of what the failure was. If you took it apart and you said the bearing were ok. Then maybe the cam bearings.
I am very interested into what happens because I think I am having the same problem as you. Oil pressure drops and then I see shavings in the oil when I change the oil. I have not took the pan off. But maybe it is something similar to what you had inside.
I really doubt that it might be the problem but when I got the motor after a couple of oil changes I ran full Synthetic, and if my memory is correct this started to happen right after running that full synthetic. Did you run full synthetic?
Oh and my engine make no noise whatsoever.
I am very interested into what happens because I think I am having the same problem as you. Oil pressure drops and then I see shavings in the oil when I change the oil. I have not took the pan off. But maybe it is something similar to what you had inside.
I really doubt that it might be the problem but when I got the motor after a couple of oil changes I ran full Synthetic, and if my memory is correct this started to happen right after running that full synthetic. Did you run full synthetic?
Oh and my engine make no noise whatsoever.
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