HELP PLEASE!! Engine Vibration after rebuild LQ4
08-13-2010, 09:19 AM
#11
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THANKS for reply ...
I`m sure that dots are right.. i think if they are not right the rpms start playing, or maybe i`m wrong..
So what you saying is to move from R2 to 0 position, i will try it, but the guys from engine performance said that it not making different in vibration, actually i`m new on this timing chain, so will try to put it in 0 position.. but if it possible can you explain what all this position is mean?
I`m sure that dots are right.. i think if they are not right the rpms start playing, or maybe i`m wrong..
So what you saying is to move from R2 to 0 position, i will try it, but the guys from engine performance said that it not making different in vibration, actually i`m new on this timing chain, so will try to put it in 0 position.. but if it possible can you explain what all this position is mean?
How about the mass air sensor? Try unplugging it and see if it runs better. It may be dirty or have been damaged in the engine swap. A bad vacuum leak could be the case. You can take carburetor cleaner(or equivalent flamable spray) and spray around all intake tubing and blower connections and see if rpms change.
08-13-2010, 10:25 AM
#12
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I miss understood you earlier. Having it in R2 won't cause your issue. Just typically a cam is installed with no advance or retard.
How about the mass air sensor? Try unplugging it and see if it runs better. It may be dirty or have been damaged in the engine swap. A bad vacuum leak could be the case. You can take carburetor cleaner(or equivalent flamable spray) and spray around all intake tubing and blower connections and see if rpms change.
How about the mass air sensor? Try unplugging it and see if it runs better. It may be dirty or have been damaged in the engine swap. A bad vacuum leak could be the case. You can take carburetor cleaner(or equivalent flamable spray) and spray around all intake tubing and blower connections and see if rpms change.
I will check that actually when we had first OBDII test it was some issues with it, but when we start engine again it gone
08-13-2010, 01:16 PM
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08-13-2010, 04:08 PM
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pull all of your spark plugs and check the condition of them. Also, have you had it tuned? Do you have a way to data log things while the truck is running? Scan gauge, efi live, ect? You need to find out what things are doing.
08-13-2010, 11:04 PM
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08-13-2010, 11:06 PM
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today I will try to run full test .. will report here
08-14-2010, 02:20 AM
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After ALL test done we found out that we do not have compression on right Head, driver side compression is good, but other side compression is zero..
So what that mean, is that mean I need to change Engine Cylinder Head Block because it seems to have damaged?
visually they all been ok.. before installation I even installs new valve ans spring plus rockers
So what that mean, is that mean I need to change Engine Cylinder Head Block because it seems to have damaged?
visually they all been ok.. before installation I even installs new valve ans spring plus rockers
08-14-2010, 04:17 PM
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My guess is Pistons were installed upside down on the passenger side and bent all the valves. There is no other logical reason to not have compression on the entire side of an engine.
08-15-2010, 11:26 PM
#20
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on another block which had zero compression, by playing with bolts compression changed little, so we decide to take out and make it properly, so now i`m thinking to open another one which has 150PSI, do I really need to do it? how you think.. or 150psi is good enough?
guys how i can know what is a right way to plug coils packs, i mean the a lot of wires and i we not sure which is going in right way, maybe to get some books for this engine, where it will show how factory right it should be plugged, how to make this right ?
guys how i can know what is a right way to plug coils packs, i mean the a lot of wires and i we not sure which is going in right way, maybe to get some books for this engine, where it will show how factory right it should be plugged, how to make this right ?
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