High output alternator??
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High output alternator??
I need some info on a high output alternator for my truck. 2001 Sierra 5.3, Yellow top Optima battery, ASP underdrive crank, LS-1 E-fans, and about a 400W sound system. I think I'm gonna get a capacitor to help with the draw from the sound but I think I need to upgrade my 130A alternator(with an ASP overdrive pulley) to maybe a 200A alternator. Do you think this will solve my voltage fluctuation problem when my fans come on and could I get a good alternator for $150 or could I upgrade my own for that or less?? THANKS!!!
#2
Originally Posted by bodyguard6799
I need some info on a high output alternator for my truck. 2001 Sierra 5.3, Yellow top Optima battery, ASP underdrive crank, LS-1 E-fans, and about a 400W sound system. I think I'm gonna get a capacitor to help with the draw from the sound but I think I need to upgrade my 130A alternator(with an ASP overdrive pulley) to maybe a 200A alternator. Do you think this will solve my voltage fluctuation problem when my fans come on and could I get a good alternator for $150 or could I upgrade my own for that or less?? THANKS!!!
#3
Originally Posted by bodyguard6799
I need some info on a high output alternator for my truck. 2001 Sierra 5.3, Yellow top Optima battery, ASP underdrive crank, LS-1 E-fans, and about a 400W sound system. I think I'm gonna get a capacitor to help with the draw from the sound but I think I need to upgrade my 130A alternator(with an ASP overdrive pulley) to maybe a 200A alternator. Do you think this will solve my voltage fluctuation problem when my fans come on and could I get a good alternator for $150 or could I upgrade my own for that or less?? THANKS!!!
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#4
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Originally Posted by bodyguard6799
I need some info on a high output alternator for my truck. 2001 Sierra 5.3, Yellow top Optima battery, ASP underdrive crank, LS-1 E-fans, and about a 400W sound system. I think I'm gonna get a capacitor to help with the draw from the sound but I think I need to upgrade my 130A alternator(with an ASP overdrive pulley) to maybe a 200A alternator. Do you think this will solve my voltage fluctuation problem when my fans come on and could I get a good alternator for $150 or could I upgrade my own for that or less?? THANKS!!!
Wrangler NW has a 225 amp unit w/ external regulator, pulley, direct plug adaptor harness and everything for about 700.00. For what you have though, it's WAY overkill.
I'll guarantee you that 200a alternator for 3 or 4 hundred doesn't put it out unless the motor is at like 6k. A Wrangler is typically rated for a 200A it will be 100amps at idle and 200 at 3000 rpm.
Most ambulances, firetrucks, etc... use wrangler alternators. They do what they say they do, but it's an ungodly amount of money for an alternator.
I would recommend you get a cap and an overdrive pulley for the stock alternator (since you have the underdrive crank pulley). Save your money. Also, upgrade that shitty 10guage charging lead to a good 4 guage power cable.
#5
Originally Posted by retsell
A good, true 200amp alternator will run around $700.00. I've used cheap "HO" alternators before and they are typically nothing other than a stock alternator with a smaller pulley to gain a little, but they don't last.
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As far as your Wrangler altenator, hey you're right, a very nice unit! And I could understand paying that kind of dough for a "Commercial" application..
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Originally Posted by Flipper
Hmmm I know the Mean Green Altenators have a 2 year UNCONDITIONAL warranty. Also they are not just a stock altenator with a smaller pulley.
As far as your Wrangler altenator, hey you're right, a very nice unit! And I could understand paying that kind of dough for a "Commercial" application..
As far as your Wrangler altenator, hey you're right, a very nice unit! And I could understand paying that kind of dough for a "Commercial" application..
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#8
Originally Posted by retsell
Never used the green ones before, I wouldn't have any input, but I do know that typically the cheap alternators are not what they say, never said there may not be an exception... I only sell wrangler now, used some ohio generator, but not good luck with those guys either...
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I have a stock 130A alternator off of a Yukon with an ASP overdrive pulley. I dcould probably get a newer 145A alternator for cheap but I dont think that will make much of a difference over my 130A. Will upgrading the charging lead really help that much?? What kind of wire can you use for that?? Also I was thinking of a 0.5 farad cap, do you think I need a 1 farad cap?? THANKS for all the input guy's!!!
#10
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I bought a 200 amp from a well-known guy in the car audio world for about $350, had a few problems with it. First, the voltage regulator didn't agree with the engine computer and would drop the voltage all the time (basically the alt would stop charging). I had it replaced with an internal regulator, but then the ECU didn't like that so the battery light was on all the time. I had the ECU tuned and alternator programming removed, problem solved. Then it started making weird noises,ended up having the bearings replaced. After all that, the guy tested the alt to see what it would do. It did put out 200 amps, but would only hold 12 volts at that output, so it's not a "true" 200 amp alt. He said a real good one would cost 600-700.
Just to show you get what you pay for....
And yes, upgrading the charging wire will really help....the stock wire will only be good up to a certain point, then you're trying to push more current through than it can handle. Plus, you may run the risk of melting the wire if it gets too high. If you're going to run new charging wire, it's also good to replace the battery to chassis ground wire, as well as the engine block to chassis ground wire. This is known as the "big three", and all are equally important because they work as a complete circuit. I went a little overboard and did them all 1/0 gauge...
Just to show you get what you pay for....
And yes, upgrading the charging wire will really help....the stock wire will only be good up to a certain point, then you're trying to push more current through than it can handle. Plus, you may run the risk of melting the wire if it gets too high. If you're going to run new charging wire, it's also good to replace the battery to chassis ground wire, as well as the engine block to chassis ground wire. This is known as the "big three", and all are equally important because they work as a complete circuit. I went a little overboard and did them all 1/0 gauge...