How do you get the crank bolt loose....and tight again if.....
02-22-2005, 10:38 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by IslandTahoe
Isn't the stock crank bolt a torque-to-yield piece? If so, have to get a new one for the re-isntall.
02-22-2005, 11:09 PM
#13
I just turned it like a bottle cap
Nah the ol' IR 232A spun it right off
Now I did Torque that =-*@ing bolt back to 240ft/lb . I dont know how that AC bracket didnt break from the prybar holding the crank. I actually think the 140 degrees that you have to turn on the new bolt afterwards was worse than the 240ft/lb. Afer about 100 degrees I hit it with the impact a few times
.
Nah the ol' IR 232A spun it right off
Now I did Torque that =-*@ing bolt back to 240ft/lb . I dont know how that AC bracket didnt break from the prybar holding the crank. I actually think the 140 degrees that you have to turn on the new bolt afterwards was worse than the 240ft/lb. Afer about 100 degrees I hit it with the impact a few times
.
02-23-2005, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by XLR8NSS
BTW, if you're taking the starter down make sure to unhook the battery first. Lot of exposed metal and hot terminals in that vicinity. 
... big spark on the transmission cooler line and a small fire. Great fun when it is all right above your face! I think I set a new record for crawling out from under a vehicle. 
I guess there is a reason most installation insturctions always start with "disconnect the battery".
02-23-2005, 06:48 PM
#15
I've done another method to keep the pulley from rotating, but it was a Toyota V8 (4.7). Get a friend to aquire two large channel locks, one to grab the crank pulley and the other set to squeeze the handles of the channel locks gripping the pulley. Then remove the crank bolt while your friend is holding the pulley.
Philip S.
Philip S.
02-23-2005, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by David Cairns
Did that once on my 64 Impala ... big spark on the transmission cooler line and a small fire. Great fun when it is all right above your face! I think I set a new record for crawling out from under a vehicle.
I guess there is a reason most installation insturctions always start with "disconnect the battery".
... big spark on the transmission cooler line and a small fire. Great fun when it is all right above your face! I think I set a new record for crawling out from under a vehicle. I guess there is a reason most installation insturctions always start with "disconnect the battery".
Glad I'm not the only one that's happened too, I feel better now. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123644
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02-24-2005, 04:12 PM
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I used a 2" wide, 1/8" thick, ~10" long piece of steel stock from Home Depot.
It fits nicely up the smallish 2.5" access port in the 60/65's bellhousing. (I don't know if they 80's have them or not?).
Once I had the port opened, I turned the motor over by hand from underneath - leveraging the teeth on the flywheel with a screwdriver. Once you get a converter mounting lug near the hole - set the lug on the passenger side of the hole if you were to loosen the crank bolt - set it to the drivers side if you were looking to tighten. Slide the Home Depot bar stock up the hole and between the flywheel and converter. Take that screwdriver and wedge it parallel with the bar-stock to keep it all held up in there.
Now you can go ahead and break the bolt loose. When you crank on the bolt, it will force the converter mounting lug (very heavy duty pieces there) against the steel bar stock, which will be forced to the side of the hole - effectively locking the crank quite solidly.
I used a 1/2 drive breaker, with a 3 or 4' handle off of a HiLift jack. It came off like nothing... I actually thought I sheared it in half for the first 1/4 turn.
It sounds a lot more involved than it really is. I know I can repeat this in 30 seconds or less.
If you want, I can take a picture of the piece of steel I used. I was really nervous that the bellhousing wasn't going to be able to withstand the forces involved, but there is barely a nick. I was nearly hanging off the breaker/cheater (195lbs) when intalling the bolt.
It fits nicely up the smallish 2.5" access port in the 60/65's bellhousing. (I don't know if they 80's have them or not?).
Once I had the port opened, I turned the motor over by hand from underneath - leveraging the teeth on the flywheel with a screwdriver. Once you get a converter mounting lug near the hole - set the lug on the passenger side of the hole if you were to loosen the crank bolt - set it to the drivers side if you were looking to tighten. Slide the Home Depot bar stock up the hole and between the flywheel and converter. Take that screwdriver and wedge it parallel with the bar-stock to keep it all held up in there.
Now you can go ahead and break the bolt loose. When you crank on the bolt, it will force the converter mounting lug (very heavy duty pieces there) against the steel bar stock, which will be forced to the side of the hole - effectively locking the crank quite solidly.
I used a 1/2 drive breaker, with a 3 or 4' handle off of a HiLift jack. It came off like nothing... I actually thought I sheared it in half for the first 1/4 turn.
It sounds a lot more involved than it really is. I know I can repeat this in 30 seconds or less.
If you want, I can take a picture of the piece of steel I used. I was really nervous that the bellhousing wasn't going to be able to withstand the forces involved, but there is barely a nick. I was nearly hanging off the breaker/cheater (195lbs) when intalling the bolt.
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