BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Went to the dealer the other day for two things (starter hesitation and front axle noise) that I wanted them to check out under my extended warrenty. I hate this dealership. So they charge me a 180 dollar diagnostic fee, I pay it and they come back with a laundry list of non-warrenty items and conveniently couldn't find anything wrong with my two main concerns. Of some of the items, they indicated that my front shocks were bad (PS leaking) and that my rotors were bad. I had to actually talk to the mechanic because I couldn't get a more detailed answer from the jerk off at the counter. The mechanic said the rotors were rusted and pitted. Now, the brakes don't make any noise and stop perfectly fine. No squeaks, no vibrating (warped rotors), nothing. My shocks squeak though, on the up and down stroke. So my question is, when I take the wheels off, what can tell me right away that I need new brakes and/or shocks. If they are rusted and pitted, should I replace them?

I don't trust this dealership. They have screwed my mother with her car in the past. Some of the items they told me needed replacing, I had already done a few months ago, like the fuel filter and the F & R axle fluid. When I told the service guy that I did them he said "oh, well, we can just scratch those off the list". So then I was like, did they actually check these things for the 180 bucks the charged me or just pull these out of a hat. So basically, I can wipe my *** with the extended warrenty. Not only do I have to pay a deductible, if anything was found to be under warrenty, but I also get screwed out of 180 bucks if I want them to look at something. Sorry for the long post. So how do the rotors and shocks out? Thanks

cstchevy

you really need to find another dealer or take that warranty and cash it in for the $$.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Yeah...the warrenty blows. This is the dealer I originally bought the truck from, along with the extended warrenty. After I went to them, a few times, in the beginning, I learned they suck and went to a different dealer which I liked better. Unfortunately, they couldn't take the extended warrenty. Hopefully I can find someone else around here.

02-4.8

$180???
I thought the $70-75 most around here charge was crazy.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

yup..180..for nothing

goshawk23

for one, i would review the extended warranty paper work. with a very close eyeball. scrutinize the hell out of it.

also, to tell if you need new shocks, well. my truck started bouncing a lot and the bumps just felt rough. a lot of people will take and push down on the front end of the truck/car to see if it bounces up and down a lot before settling.

on the brakes, my rears have gone first, i just noticed a lot of bouncing and pulsating during braking. i had one pad on the rear down to nothing. the rest looked like they could have gone another 5K but for the money they are cheap to replace.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

yeah, i looked at the paperwork when we had the same trouble with my mothers car. We tried to get the warrenty company to allow us to take it to the other dealership where we were more comfortable but they wouldn't allow it. They always side with the dealer. I mean. of coarse, it is in their best interest. The dealer is actually helping them by not taking up a claim. Called the service guy at the other dealer since we are friendly and he said some of the items you can only quote by the miles on the truck like I suspected (axle fluid, fuel filter, injectors) but said he should have asked instead of just saying they needed to be replaced/serviced.

When I jump on the front and rear there isn't a noise(except the air) and the truck dosen't continually bounce but when I hit bumps on the road, they squeak. I will have to take off the wheels to check out the brakes anyway so how do I tell if a shock is "leaking".

Thanks.

nativetexan

Man, I hate to hear they are giving you the run around.

Factory shocks aren't the best that is out there (imo). I replaced the ones I had on my '02 Silverado with some Munro Reflex shocks after 2 years and was much happier. I think I spent around $120 for the 4 shocks and put them in myself. I believe it took an hour to do. It is not a difficult job.
As for determining if a shock is leaking while it is still on the truck? You already did the bounce test, beyond that I'm clueless.

Brake pads don't really care if there is rust on your rotors or even pits for that matter (ie drilled rotors). If there is still pad left, there won't be any rust on the contact surface of the rotor unless the pad is not making contact, but that is a separate issue. A visual inspection of the brake rotor will yield a lot of information. Is there any pad left? If you see less than 1/4" you might consider replacing them in the near future. As for the rotors, look for those pits and rust. If they are not on the contact surface of the rotor, it is cosmetic and not worth worrying about. If you do see pits on the face, you can have the rotors turned at a brake shop. Better yet, some brake shops give free brake and shock check ups and will put it up on the rack, pull the tire and will inspect for you. I bet they would even "explain their findings" and show you evidence. That would be different from the treatment you received from your dealership. Good luck.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Native,

I was just going to spring for some Bilsteins ($69 @ Autozone) and maybe get some rotors and pad from Wholesale Direct. I really have to get the wheels off but I just haven't had time.