j4nash

iTrader: (2)

How hard is it to install a torque converter

Hit Man X

In a 2x4...

Drain pan and converter first...avoid a big mess.

Drop drive shaft, but mark it on the pinion so it's balanced on reinstall.

Disconnect wiring harnesses

Remove mount

Remove ~7 bolts from bellhousing to motor.

Remove the bolts from the converter to the flexplate

You could remove x-member or figure a way to wiggle it out from under there.

Etc, etc. You get the idea...just gotta drop the tranny.

IMO, I'd pay someone $250-300 to do it who's got a lift. It's a BIG PITA otherwise...well unless the motor is out.

BenKey

iTrader: (1)

j4, in our truck, a little more involved. I did mine in my driveway with a buddy. Wasn't real hard, just not the funnest thing I've ever done. If you do in your driveway/garage, get somebody to help you. I would try to get access to a lift. That would have shaved off numerous hours. I'll pay someone to do it next time.

Hit Man X

Oh you guys have the transfer case to deal with like I do.

Then add disconnecting the wiring to that...case removal, etc. I assume 2x4 as a vast majority of the peeps on here are 2x4 not AWD/4x4.

j4nash

iTrader: (2)

I have droped a tranne before just not sure if i want to put the torque converter myself

sleepersilverado

iTrader: (1)

once the trany is out putting the verter in is no biggie. the verter alone will hold like5-6 qt of oil if i remember correctly. pull the old one out then slide the new one in and turn it back and forth while pushing it into the trany. it should click three times.

marc_w

Do you have to remove the torsion bars?

....or just unbolt and drop the crossmember while they're still tensioned and locked into the lower control arms?

revolution

I just installed my TC over the weekend. Here are TC install directions for a 2wd (no transfer case).

Prep: Get the truck up on ramps. Disconnect battery and drain the ATF.

1. Start by removing the exhaust Y-Pipe. Do not attempt to unscrew the O2 sensors - the thread may be seized. Instead unplug the O2 sensors and remove the Y-pipe with them attached.
2. Remove the driveshaft by unbolting it from the pinion yoke at the rear end. It just slides out.
3. Remove the black access cover from the front of the bellhousing. I had to pull the starter to get to it.
4. By rotating the crank to get them into position, remove all 3 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. – 15 mm. There's an access cover on the bellhousing. Remove it and use a flat head screw driver.
5. Once unbolted, push the converter back into the trans. It should move about a 1/4"
6. Unhook the quick-disconnect lines for the cooler. Removing the heat shield from the passenger side of the trans makes getting in there easer. There's a little metal clip over a plastic ring. Use some sort of pick to get the clip off and then the ring slides off. It's hard to explain, you'll have to see it.
7. Remove the shift linkage. Be carefull not to upset the calibration. Remove the nut the holds the linkage arm and remove the linkage arm from the shaft. Remove the entire position sensor from the trans. DO NOT attempt to unplug it. The weatherpack seal inside melts and becomes glue. String this out of the way.
8. Unbolt the trans from the crossmember.
9. Use a floorjack, preferrably with a tranny adapter, to support the trans. Lift it enough to clear the rear monting pad.
10. Unbolt the crossmember and remove it.
11. Lower the trans. It will hang a little lower from the engine. The motor mounts will hold it.
12. Use the extra space to disconnect the harness from the top of the passenger-side. It has to be squeezed at the same time you lift it out. Zip the harness out of the way.
13. Disconnect the vent tube at the top of the trans.
14. Begin removing the harness holders and dipstick retainers from the bellhousing stud bolts.
15. Remove the dipstick.
16. Position and secure the jack to the trans. Begin removing the studs. Get the top ones first. Leave one on the left and one on the right till last.
17. With the studs out, slide the trans off the dowels.
18. Secure the converter from falling out by bolting something across the bellhousing. If the converter falls out the seal on the front pump will be destroyed, not to mention the converter itself.
19. Lower the trans and remove. Clean the area around the quick dis-connects so dirt doesn't end up stuck to the lines when reinstalling.
20. Fill the new converter half way with DexronIII ATF. Have 8 quarts on-hand.
21. Put a striaghtedge across the bellhousing and note the distance between the factory converter hub and the straightedge. (mine was 11 mm)
22. Remove the factory converter.
23. Install the new converter while rotating it. You will feel it lining up as you rotate it into position. Once it's properly aligned with the pump it will seat all the way in.
24. Check the measurement against that taken in step 21. (11 mm) If the converter is sticking out to far keep rotating until it fully seats. This is critical!
25. Secure the converter so it doesn't fall out on reinstallation.
26. Install the reverse of removal.


It took me 2 1/2 days. Thats one person, beer breaks and 9 stiches after a wrench slipped on the 2nd day. WEAR GLOVES!

I also installed the transgo shift kit and vette servo with the tranny out and made sure not to lose any of the checkballs.

You could do it in a day. Im no mechanic. Its good to have someone help you when you're taking the tranny down off the dowels.

Well worth the time and effort.

Side note - I know 99% of everyone on this forum has or recommends the TT3000. I went with the TT2600 anyways. For a daily driver, i couldn't imagine anything more. i still have traction problems.

KeukaZ71

i paid someone. if it wasn't my daily driver, i would of attempted it myself. works like a charm now

O3GMC

This is something the shop probably didnt do on mine when I had mine installled - and probably why i get a vibration at 115 - can a tranny shop balance it again? If not where would I go?