Ht383e
10-10-2012 | 07:27 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta, Canada
Ht383e
Has anyone used a HT383E crate engine in their 96-98 c1500/Tahoe/Yukon/k1500 ?
Con & pros ? Worth it ? Performance differnce then the L31 and L30 ?
Like it or love it or hate it ?
I wanna swap my 5.0 vortec for a ht383e crate motor.
Con & pros ? Worth it ? Performance differnce then the L31 and L30 ?
Like it or love it or hate it ?
I wanna swap my 5.0 vortec for a ht383e crate motor.
10-13-2012 | 01:29 PM
#3
Personally...... Build your own engine.
After seeing firsthand the insides of some of these GMPP crates I would run away screaming. The one that is valid to compare is a friends ZZ383 he dropped into his jet boat. It was eating over 1 quart of oil per hour after about 100 hours of running time...... so it was pulled. GM flat out denied the warranty on the engine using the boating application as the reason ( sealed cooling system so not using river water). And granted building a boat engine isn't quite the same as a car..... but the failures of this crate had nothing to do with application and would have done it in a car or pickup.
First off the oil control rings were just garbage. They had zero tension to the cylinder wall and thus let all the oil by and the piston to wall was inconsistent....
Intake valves on the heads were only contacting about 60% of the seat.... so not a great seal there.
The block was never deburred from the machining process..... so every machined surface inside the oil pan ( your pan rail, main caps, etc) were all full of metal chips that were slowly breaking off and floating in the oil.
Bearings were all damaged throughout because of all these chips.
And finally my favorite....The rear main cap was not properly installed on the block. For whatever reason the Vortec 880 block used had no dowel pin to center the cap...... thus it had movement from the play in the bolt holes The cap was actually forced ahead as far as it could sit. So..... the thrust surface of the rear bearing on the cap was completely torn apart from the crankshaft....... while the block portion of the cap was untouched as the crank could not physically touch it. Of course endplay on the crank went out the window when we saw that.
Overall a very, very poorly assembled engine. The bores were straight and true.... but that's about it. For the money it was.... it was a complete piece of junk.
Better yet the useless area rep flat out said that they would not have warrantied the engine anyway regardless. The oil consumption it had was "normal"...... Yeah well the pile of garbage parts from inside it then as well as shoddy workmanship must therefore be "normal" too...
That and they use a 3.80" stroke crank and odball 4.005" rings so they can use a more or less standard bore 350 block and still achieve 383 cid..... whereas the typical 3.75" stroke crank requires a .030" overbore to be a true 383 in a 4" bore block.
We redid the heads on the ZZ, deburred and cleaned it, installed new rings and bearings as well as honed the cylinders for fit and now it runs very well........ But for the $7k ( canada) it cost initially it was disgusting.
The ZZ383 and HT383 are the same short block if you were wondering.
We aren't the only ones with oil usage issues either:
New GM ZZ383 Stroker Oil Consumption - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
But hey, maybe you will get a good one, lol.
After seeing firsthand the insides of some of these GMPP crates I would run away screaming. The one that is valid to compare is a friends ZZ383 he dropped into his jet boat. It was eating over 1 quart of oil per hour after about 100 hours of running time...... so it was pulled. GM flat out denied the warranty on the engine using the boating application as the reason ( sealed cooling system so not using river water). And granted building a boat engine isn't quite the same as a car..... but the failures of this crate had nothing to do with application and would have done it in a car or pickup.
First off the oil control rings were just garbage. They had zero tension to the cylinder wall and thus let all the oil by and the piston to wall was inconsistent....
Intake valves on the heads were only contacting about 60% of the seat.... so not a great seal there.
The block was never deburred from the machining process..... so every machined surface inside the oil pan ( your pan rail, main caps, etc) were all full of metal chips that were slowly breaking off and floating in the oil.
Bearings were all damaged throughout because of all these chips.
And finally my favorite....The rear main cap was not properly installed on the block. For whatever reason the Vortec 880 block used had no dowel pin to center the cap...... thus it had movement from the play in the bolt holes The cap was actually forced ahead as far as it could sit. So..... the thrust surface of the rear bearing on the cap was completely torn apart from the crankshaft....... while the block portion of the cap was untouched as the crank could not physically touch it. Of course endplay on the crank went out the window when we saw that.
Overall a very, very poorly assembled engine. The bores were straight and true.... but that's about it. For the money it was.... it was a complete piece of junk.
Better yet the useless area rep flat out said that they would not have warrantied the engine anyway regardless. The oil consumption it had was "normal"...... Yeah well the pile of garbage parts from inside it then as well as shoddy workmanship must therefore be "normal" too...
That and they use a 3.80" stroke crank and odball 4.005" rings so they can use a more or less standard bore 350 block and still achieve 383 cid..... whereas the typical 3.75" stroke crank requires a .030" overbore to be a true 383 in a 4" bore block.
We redid the heads on the ZZ, deburred and cleaned it, installed new rings and bearings as well as honed the cylinders for fit and now it runs very well........ But for the $7k ( canada) it cost initially it was disgusting.
The ZZ383 and HT383 are the same short block if you were wondering.
We aren't the only ones with oil usage issues either:
New GM ZZ383 Stroker Oil Consumption - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
But hey, maybe you will get a good one, lol.
Last edited by 1994Vmax; 10-13-2012 at 03:19 PM.
10-15-2012 | 02:41 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 30
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta, Canada
What is the differnce on the 411 compare to the one I have ? Do I need more wiring harness or something, after the swap ?
10-15-2012 | 02:50 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 30
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta, Canada
Personally...... Build your own engine.
After seeing firsthand the insides of some of these GMPP crates I would run away screaming. The one that is valid to compare is a friends ZZ383 he dropped into his jet boat. It was eating over 1 quart of oil per hour after about 100 hours of running time...... so it was pulled. GM flat out denied the warranty on the engine using the boating application as the reason ( sealed cooling system so not using river water). And granted building a boat engine isn't quite the same as a car..... but the failures of this crate had nothing to do with application and would have done it in a car or pickup.
First off the oil control rings were just garbage. They had zero tension to the cylinder wall and thus let all the oil by and the piston to wall was inconsistent....
Intake valves on the heads were only contacting about 60% of the seat.... so not a great seal there.
The block was never deburred from the machining process..... so every machined surface inside the oil pan ( your pan rail, main caps, etc) were all full of metal chips that were slowly breaking off and floating in the oil.
Bearings were all damaged throughout because of all these chips.
And finally my favorite....The rear main cap was not properly installed on the block. For whatever reason the Vortec 880 block used had no dowel pin to center the cap...... thus it had movement from the play in the bolt holes The cap was actually forced ahead as far as it could sit. So..... the thrust surface of the rear bearing on the cap was completely torn apart from the crankshaft....... while the block portion of the cap was untouched as the crank could not physically touch it. Of course endplay on the crank went out the window when we saw that.
Overall a very, very poorly assembled engine. The bores were straight and true.... but that's about it. For the money it was.... it was a complete piece of junk.
Better yet the useless area rep flat out said that they would not have warrantied the engine anyway regardless. The oil consumption it had was "normal"...... Yeah well the pile of garbage parts from inside it then as well as shoddy workmanship must therefore be "normal" too...
That and they use a 3.80" stroke crank and odball 4.005" rings so they can use a more or less standard bore 350 block and still achieve 383 cid..... whereas the typical 3.75" stroke crank requires a .030" overbore to be a true 383 in a 4" bore block.
We redid the heads on the ZZ, deburred and cleaned it, installed new rings and bearings as well as honed the cylinders for fit and now it runs very well........ But for the $7k ( canada) it cost initially it was disgusting.
The ZZ383 and HT383 are the same short block if you were wondering.
We aren't the only ones with oil usage issues either:
New GM ZZ383 Stroker Oil Consumption - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
But hey, maybe you will get a good one, lol.
After seeing firsthand the insides of some of these GMPP crates I would run away screaming. The one that is valid to compare is a friends ZZ383 he dropped into his jet boat. It was eating over 1 quart of oil per hour after about 100 hours of running time...... so it was pulled. GM flat out denied the warranty on the engine using the boating application as the reason ( sealed cooling system so not using river water). And granted building a boat engine isn't quite the same as a car..... but the failures of this crate had nothing to do with application and would have done it in a car or pickup.
First off the oil control rings were just garbage. They had zero tension to the cylinder wall and thus let all the oil by and the piston to wall was inconsistent....
Intake valves on the heads were only contacting about 60% of the seat.... so not a great seal there.
The block was never deburred from the machining process..... so every machined surface inside the oil pan ( your pan rail, main caps, etc) were all full of metal chips that were slowly breaking off and floating in the oil.
Bearings were all damaged throughout because of all these chips.
And finally my favorite....The rear main cap was not properly installed on the block. For whatever reason the Vortec 880 block used had no dowel pin to center the cap...... thus it had movement from the play in the bolt holes The cap was actually forced ahead as far as it could sit. So..... the thrust surface of the rear bearing on the cap was completely torn apart from the crankshaft....... while the block portion of the cap was untouched as the crank could not physically touch it. Of course endplay on the crank went out the window when we saw that.
Overall a very, very poorly assembled engine. The bores were straight and true.... but that's about it. For the money it was.... it was a complete piece of junk.
Better yet the useless area rep flat out said that they would not have warrantied the engine anyway regardless. The oil consumption it had was "normal"...... Yeah well the pile of garbage parts from inside it then as well as shoddy workmanship must therefore be "normal" too...
That and they use a 3.80" stroke crank and odball 4.005" rings so they can use a more or less standard bore 350 block and still achieve 383 cid..... whereas the typical 3.75" stroke crank requires a .030" overbore to be a true 383 in a 4" bore block.
We redid the heads on the ZZ, deburred and cleaned it, installed new rings and bearings as well as honed the cylinders for fit and now it runs very well........ But for the $7k ( canada) it cost initially it was disgusting.
The ZZ383 and HT383 are the same short block if you were wondering.
We aren't the only ones with oil usage issues either:
New GM ZZ383 Stroker Oil Consumption - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
But hey, maybe you will get a good one, lol.
Only reason I'm look at ht383e cause my brother have one with 8,000kms on it, in his truck then i bought the truck off of him for $1500& the frame is just bent, but I wanna swap the engine over but I thought of asking anyone if it worth the power/toque/performance. The 305 vortec is tired lol
10-15-2012 | 02:59 PM
#7
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Teching In
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta, Canada
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10-15-2012 | 03:01 PM
#8
Holy lol bad lucks with the ZZ383,
Only reason I'm look at ht383e cause my brother have one with 8,000kms on it, in his truck then i bought the truck off of him for $1500& the frame is just bent, but I wanna swap the engine over but I thought of asking anyone if it worth the power/toque/performance. The 305 vortec is tired lol
Only reason I'm look at ht383e cause my brother have one with 8,000kms on it, in his truck then i bought the truck off of him for $1500& the frame is just bent, but I wanna swap the engine over but I thought of asking anyone if it worth the power/toque/performance. The 305 vortec is tired lol
Quite a few dealerships up here did it to both TBI and Vortec trucks back in the late 90's and early 2000's. GM even sells the HT383 as a retrofit engine for 96 up Vortec trucks. See:
GM Parts Direct: 17800393 - HT383E Truck Retrofit Crate Engine
It will fit, plug and play but it will need tuning to ever run properly.
10-15-2012 | 03:03 PM
#9
It would be way simpler to just start with the 2010 in the first place, lol.
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