InchUp

iTrader: (2)

Whoa whoa whoa here, stop the parade of camshaft splits! Blower cams are not that aggressively split (referring to the 208/230). That 214/218 will do very well in the 5.3L. With such high lift makes sure you have dual springs and titanium locks otherwise you'll start poking holes in your motor.

NegraRCSB2X4auto

iTrader: (15)

the heads come with springs good up to .600.

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

Give yourself a little headroom with the springs so you're not maxing them out every time you get on the gas. Valve float lies up there. A good .550-.580 cam would do nicely on those .600 springs so you don't wear them out so fast and have to change them out as often.

If I may make a suggestion now that I know a bit more about your build, look into the XR265 high lift. 212/218, .558/.563 on a 115 LSA.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

That's along the lines of what I was thinking...

AdioSS

iTrader: (2)

Since when?

The folks at Lingenfelter know WTF they are doing better than 99% of us here. How many 1000+horsepower engines have you built? I realize that the exhaust ports flow very well on these newer heads, but the intakes are monsters. The blower will force a lot more air in. The exhaust lobe needs to stay open longer to get it all out.

I really like the looks of both the LPE cams.

And with the current technology, you don't always need dual springs and Ti retainers or locks. I don't think he is planning on spinning the otherwise stock engine over 7000RPM which is really where that stuff is starting to be needed.

AdioSS

iTrader: (2)

There's your first mistake. Don't base valvesprings off of the rated lift. What springs are they?

You really need to know the pressures at open and closed lifts, or at least when closed and the spring rate.

redsilverado05

^^^^Bump. In my opinion, if your going with head, cam, and a blower. I would definately get some nice double springs because you'll be pushing some pretty serious power for a small block, and probably reving to around 6000-6500 rpms. I would just call places like Lingenfelter, Texas-Speed, Futral Motorsports etc to see what cam they recommend. Because in the end when it comes to camshafts it's all in what you want as far as drive ability, power, ET's, sound, and reliability of the engine etc.

NegraRCSB2X4auto

iTrader: (15)

well after a few calls i went with a 224/228 .581 .588 114 lsa
now my question is do what size push rods do i need to get. will i be okay with the stock rockers?

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

As long as the cams base circle is the same as stock then stock length pushrods will be fine, leave your stock rockers as they are...

Inch- he's looking at a 1/4 mile goal... Not a rock crawler the fellas who design and cut Lingy cams know what's up... I'm really debating a GT-7 in my turbo 5.3 rather than the one I have listed... Which is different than the one that's in my truck, by your standards you would need 450cubes to run my cam... I drive it every day now N/A waiting to finish my project and I can assure you its no slouch out of the hole, or up top . For the record, its a 224/227 .576/.588 113+3 in an otherwise stock 5.3 with the exception of springs...