I can get you a good deal on one from wrangler, you don't have to get the 225 amp. They have smaller ones that are cheaper. If you would like, send me an email : ryan@advantageaudio.net and I will check a price for you. The 1000/1 is a class D monoblock, it doesn't draw a killer amount of amps. The 300/4 is a class a/b, but it has a regulated power supply, it's not too power hungry. I would recommend something like a 175 amp unit from Wrangler. This alternator will put out more than the competition I am sure, and I can save you some dollars.

I am using the 225 amp for a system with a Diamond Audio D7402 (1600 watt class A/B amplifier) and a D7152 (300 watt class A/B) together they can pull around 300 amps of current (they are only about 30 percent effecient). I also put in 3 deep cycle batteries and a 40 farad cap. If this doesn't help I'm gonna kill myself.

 

I priced around pretty hard and alterstart was the best price. I got the 4 AWG wire with it and it was still better priced than everyone else. It uses the larger case and a bit smaller pulley. I barley got my belt on but it went OK. I still have plenty of travel left in the tensioner. A 200 amp unit and the wire shipped for $292.00.

 

Are there any performance gains from a high output alternator on a supercharged truck? meaning, $250 worth of performance gains?

 

You would benefit if you have added electrical demands.
I have;
Kennedy Diesel's Light Booster Wiring Harness W\100 Watt hi beam lamps.
Hella Rallye 4000s' W\100Watt lamps.
Flex-A-Lite 292 Fans.
A 12V air compressor for my ride height air bags and filling flats.

I found the OE 105-amp unit laboring hard when I was under 700 RPM, running the AC, hi beams and Hellas, the e-fans, foot on brake, radio, ect...
Then I got the Alterstart 200 amp unit. It still dips at the above conditions but without light dimming or window operation slowdown. The 200 shipped with a 2.250" pulley. The bolt pattern is the same but the body is larger. I barley got the belt back on. It is pushing the limit a bit on the tensioner so I have ordered a 2" pulley from alternatorparts.com. This will give me 10 to 15 more amps @ idle and relieve the tensioner some. The tensioner has very little travel left so I want to make sure I am not loading it up or bottoming too hard under acceleration.

 

Will I need an adapter for my 99? It just has the small brown wire from the harness(which I think is only for the charge indicator lamp)
I think the only thing availble that year was the 130 upgrade.(oem that is)
I have the AD230 so the site is showing I need the first adapter which has alot of wires, what are they all for?

 

I will have to look at my buddy's and see. He has a '91 and said it bolted right up but according to this:
we need the adapter but I think it should read 1996-present and 95 and earlier. :dunno: I am going to have to order me one soon too since I think mine is about to bit the dust.

 

retsell, what does the 225amp run?

 

I spoke to alternator parts.

since I have the factory 102a AD-230
we have 3 options, 140, 170, 200.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/ad_al...order_page.htm

Its plug and play. The only thing he recomended was upgrading the lead from the back of the alt to the battery to the biggest wire you can fit,
To keep the power flowing and keeping the alt cool.
or just piggy backing with the factory wire.

 

I ordered one of these for my Suburban today. We'll also be listing them on the website shorty.

Tom



2002 8.1 Silverado HD - Full Throttle lift, 37" tires, Comp Cam, TOG headers, Volant induction plus more!
2002 8.1 Suburban -Intercooled Whipple supercharger, 22" wheels/tires + more - 407hp/558 ft-lb torque at the rear wheels - 13.93 @ 95.79 MPH

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