If you had $2k, what mods would you buy???
#41
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Originally Posted by jimbo95z28
With only 2k I would go this route.
Z06 cam+springs - $320
PCMForless tune - $250
Vette servo - $20
Trans Go - $90
drop in filter - $40
LT1 fans - $120
TB stall conv - $350
P&P TB - $free
AS&M headers - $800
Total cost $1990, and have $10 left over for some beer
Aaron
Z06 cam+springs - $320
PCMForless tune - $250
Vette servo - $20
Trans Go - $90
drop in filter - $40
LT1 fans - $120
TB stall conv - $350
P&P TB - $free
AS&M headers - $800
Total cost $1990, and have $10 left over for some beer
Aaron
#42
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stock rockers are fine with the z06 cam or most any. You can use a dremel fine , but it would be faster and a bit easier with a die grinder, and a cutaway bit. Then maybe use a dremel to finish it up.
#43
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I have the same truck as you, only extended cab. I went with a Yank TT3000 ($700), a Hypertech HPPIII ($300, but you can go used for around $200), Magnaflow Cat-back ($325-$350), and an AEM air intake ($235) for a total of around $1500-$1600. Add in a nitrous system, and for around $2000, you should be running low 13's safely. Without the spray in your lighter truck I would expect low 14's at a good track (at sea level or low elevation tracks).
#44
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Originally Posted by NovaTime
thats correct, there is no point in swapping your intake manifold if you're going to remove it two months later to do the cam. same with the heads.
If you don't mind doing a motor swap: get an LS1 longblock, throw a Thunder Racing 224/.563/112 cam in there, and run 13s. Just a little more than your $2k budget, but well worth it IMO. Just use your intake manifold, accessories, and exhaust manifolds off of the truck motor, and drop it in!
My truck pulled 101 in the 1/4 untuned, and still gets 17mpg! In my humble opinion, the LS1 swap is MUCH better than the LQ4/9 swap.
#45
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Originally Posted by Scream
You don't have to pull the intake to do the cam swap!
If you don't mind doing a motor swap: get an LS1 longblock, throw a Thunder Racing 224/.563/112 cam in there, and run 13s. Just a little more than your $2k budget, but well worth it IMO. Just use your intake manifold, accessories, and exhaust manifolds off of the truck motor, and drop it in!
My truck pulled 101 in the 1/4 untuned, and still gets 17mpg! In my humble opinion, the LS1 swap is MUCH better than the LQ4/9 swap.
If you don't mind doing a motor swap: get an LS1 longblock, throw a Thunder Racing 224/.563/112 cam in there, and run 13s. Just a little more than your $2k budget, but well worth it IMO. Just use your intake manifold, accessories, and exhaust manifolds off of the truck motor, and drop it in!
My truck pulled 101 in the 1/4 untuned, and still gets 17mpg! In my humble opinion, the LS1 swap is MUCH better than the LQ4/9 swap.
#46
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LS1 is aluminum, which shaves about 80 or so pounds off of the front end, has more displacement, and better heads than the 5.3. My truck should be good for mid 13's if I could get traction as evidenced by the 101 trap speed. There's nothing wrong with the 5.3, but IMO the LS1 just has WAY more potential!!!
#47
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He's implying that you should swap out the 5.3 for a 5.7.
The long block is just so you get the whole motor. The LS1 has a bigger bore, higher compression, better flowing heads, and the aluminum block weights it in 100lbs less.
edit: scream you bastard you beat me to it
what he said ohoh.
The long block is just so you get the whole motor. The LS1 has a bigger bore, higher compression, better flowing heads, and the aluminum block weights it in 100lbs less.
edit: scream you bastard you beat me to it
what he said ohoh.
#48
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Originally Posted by SportSide 5.3
He's implying that you should swap out the 5.3 for a 5.7.
The long block is just so you get the whole motor. The LS1 has a bigger bore, higher compression, better flowing heads, and the aluminum block weights it in 100lbs less.
edit: scream you bastard you beat me to it
what he said ohoh.
The long block is just so you get the whole motor. The LS1 has a bigger bore, higher compression, better flowing heads, and the aluminum block weights it in 100lbs less.
edit: scream you bastard you beat me to it
what he said ohoh.
#49
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I've seen single small turbo, stock LS1's put out over 500 rwhp. I'm not sure if 600-700 is attainable, but read up on it in the FI section. I don't know if a stock-block LS1 would be able to handle that kinda power, but there are plenty of resources on this site to help you out!
If nothing else, just hold on to the 5.3 motor (like I'm doing w/ my 4.8) and build it later for an all-out boost motor. Bore it 120-over, put a 4" stroker crank, and have an iron 370 cube low-compression forged beast!
If nothing else, just hold on to the 5.3 motor (like I'm doing w/ my 4.8) and build it later for an all-out boost motor. Bore it 120-over, put a 4" stroker crank, and have an iron 370 cube low-compression forged beast!
#50
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I would save up another $2000 and just put an STS turbo on it. I have the prototype STS kit on my 2000 Reg Cab Chevy and a Nelson Performance Tune. Makes A big difference. Went 13.80 in a 1/4 on street tires babying it off the line.
Kevin Lucas
www.gracemotorsports.com
STS Turbo Dealer
Kevin Lucas
www.gracemotorsports.com
STS Turbo Dealer