ChevyCoonass

parish8 I would maybe like high 11's but I am going to be driving it daily. Do you drive yours daily? I also don't want to make bad gas mileage when I drive it normal. I understand I'll make **** for gas mileage when I drive it hard but when I go to Baton Rouge or something I at least want to make 13 or higher mpg.

I guess I had a misconception about what ya'll guys spend on getting that fast. I am VERY ****. Meaning that I have a thing about buying used half-*** stuff. I rather spend more on brand new motor that has every ring,piston,crankshaft,rod,block,etc.. made of very good quality, than to buy a used 6.0 with 3000 miles on it and use stock pistons and etc. until I finally blow up something when I get to the 12 second mark because I should have not half-assed it from the beginning and while having the motor apart just do it right.

Now maybe what I think if half-***, is perfectly fine. You have to forgive me, I am a little too much of a worry wart and a big time strength freak. I won't be able to go to sleep at night wandering if my piston is going to mess up or if I'll throw a rod or something. I'm not knowledgable enough to know what can give way to horsepower in a motor when horsepower exceeds the limit of the parts but I am knowledgable enough to know that if someone can help me build it correct the first time to be able to beat a stock or slightly tuned corvette, any day of the year, not just when my **** is not broke,I will have a DEPENDABLE daily low 12 second driver.

I guess all I am trying to say is that I want acceleration and dependability. Instead of spending my other half of my $15,000 on going faster, I want to make the low 12 second truck super dependable.

I know there is a lot more to just motor but I want to get that down pat first and only once and not have to keep a motor on hand in case mine blows up. Is ther a way to spend enough money to make power dependable too?? Everyone that I talk to says the more power, the more **** breaks. I don't want that.

Sorry I got carried away and longwinded. I guess I could have got to the point with less talking but I just want to let you know what I want out of my truck. Thanx for the patience!!

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i hear ya, i guess the money would add up prety fast if you want a super reliable low 12 sec truck, i do drive my truck every day, tow with it 1/2 way across the country and even get 12-13mpg but you got me on the "piston is going to mess up or if I'll throw a rod or something" part, it is only a matter of time before i blow up my truck but i am kind of looking for a reason to pull the motor and build it up anyways.

right now i am going to go finish my "weekend project" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> but right off the top of my head i would look into something like a heads and cam forged everything 408, and a 4L80E. that should get you into the 12's prety easy. then put a nx kit on there to push you well into the 11's. with all the required extras and some labor that would prety much eat up your 15k. there will be lots of guys in here to help you spend that 15k i bet.

MR.QUIK

If your intrested in a NX system I got 1 4 sale 4 275 50 to 150 shot wet

ChevyCoonass

Who is most knowledgable about a dependable motor like I talked about? Who knows what too get? All that I have to do is get everything forged and I'm alright? Or is there more to it than that? Who knows?

Thank you for your input.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

well if you want the best look at ARE or MTI, i think tbyrne sells ARE stuff, look >>> over there. i personaly think they cost too much money. there is another shop that i think is on the list but i am not sure of the name, a guy named jason. he quoted me a price of $5000 for a 408 short block and around $8000 for a longblock.

those prices included forged stroker crank, good rods, forged pistons, machine work, assembly some good heads and a cam of my choice. prety sure it included all the other stuff but i am not 100% sure. that was an iron block aluminum heads set up, just like what is in your truck now. so i would say $8000 + core($900?)for a KILLER 408 ready to bolt in. that motor would last a very long time with alot of nitrous or boost but you wont need alot, modorate nitrous or boost and that motor would last forever, just what you want. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> , the shop may have been that texas speed and performance but i am not sure.

ChevyCoonass

parish8 I saw that ARE has ls1 long blocks with aluminum blocks. Should I get that? Will that or the 408 you are talking about bolt right up in my truck?

The 408 you are talking about or any motor that ARE has for our trucks, how is the intake?coils? Do I basically take off all my components except the full long block, and then throw the 408 in there. Will all of my factory components bolt right back on the 408? Same computer? Truck will drive just like stock? No special anything? I am hoping that everything will work like stock and no special addition of gauges on my dash or anything. Again, I apologize for my ingnorance and thanks for the help.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i am suprized there aren't more sugestions coming in. there are many ways to get to your goals and it is good that you have spacific goals and expactations.

first on the aluminum block. the amuminum and iron block motors are interchangable, everything swaps over so you can go aluminum block if you want. people say the factory didn't go aluminum in the trucks because it isn't quite as durable in heavy use aplications(towing). if you plan on towing a haevy load regularly you might want to stay away from the aluminum block. with aluminum you can bore it a little farther for more cubes and it will save you about 80lb's. it will cost more. they also have steel sleves that they will be replacing and there may have been some issues with sealing back when they first started doing the resleves but i think that isn't a problem anymore.

i like the iron block idea because any machine shop can work on an iron block, you could have the motor built localy. with the aluminum i would definately stick with a shop that has alot of experience with them(ARE)

there are so many was to take your project i am not sure what to sugest. you could toss all your money into a aluminum 422 and probably meet every goal except for you miliage. it would look stock, clean, could idle smooth if thats what you wanted, be very dependable. you could build a stout iron 408 for a few bucks less, get a little better miliage, spray it or boost it as much as you want, it would take it. just a heads and cam 6.0 with some pistons and rod bolts would take alot of abuse(some kind of power adder), would probably get you into the 12's without any power adder, not eat up your whole budget, probably build that motor for around $5000. isn't life tuff, having all these options <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> .

i don't know of anyone running a 422 in one of these trucks yet, i would love to see what one would do in a rcsb.

work in progress

iTrader: (2)

I found a 24k mile ls1 out of a c5 for 800, and some JPR heads and a cam for 1400 for a grand total of 2200.00.

Seeing Red Again

Since your working with that kind of budget I wouldn't worry too much about gas mileage. Even if you drove 20K miles a year, the difference in getting 15mpg and getting 10mpg is around $1200. That's less than 1/10 of your total budget.

IMO, I would drop $13,500 on a stout truck that would kick some serious *** and spend the other $1,500 on gas! <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

sleepersilverado

iTrader: (1)

ok i will give you my opinion. im building a 5.3 for most of the same reasons you have expressed. i could of easily build any cubic inch motor for close to the same price. my main goal is dependability and diecent gas mielage. building something to perform you are going to sacrifice gas mielage. that is one reason i stuck with a 5.3 but will sacrifice some power. i drive my truck every day and it is all i have. alot of these guys hove more than one car so they can build a pro street truck. well im trying to get the best of both worlds.

It is easy to spend lots on a short block. in my case i talked to a lot of people and tried to get most of the best parts. i also got parts coated like the pistons and bearings. some of the stuff is a little over kill but is a piece of mind. but i will have a back up motor prob. a 6.0 just in case because i have nothing else to drive.