Flyer

iTrader: (1)

Man what a pain in the rear.

Getting the bolt broke loose at first was the biggest problem. I got my impact wrench out with a 24mm socket on it and hammered at it for about an hour with no luck. I finally got my breaker bar, fixed it so I could get it on there with it tight up against the frame and bumped the starter. It took me 2 times doing it this method for it to break loose.

I went to AutoZone to get the Chrysler puller. That thing did what it was suppose to but took me a while to get it all figured out. Once I got the old pully off, it was cake after that.

I used the old bolt and got the new one in place. After that I swapped bolts out .. again hammering away on it with my what I thought was a man's impact wrench.I plan on going to the dealership to get them to hit it with theirs, but that's gonna have to wait til next week probably.

Firs thting I noticed was it reved a lot quicker. Just revving it in Park, it would normally take 3 pats of the gas to get it up to redline. Now, it only takes 2 times. I haven't goten much chance to mess with it yet, but I will know more tomorrow probably.

1LEThumper

Yeah I'll agree with you it does take a bit of work to get that bolt broken loose.

As far as a install tip for the ASP one, I just put a little bit of oil on it, put it on the crank and started it back on with the old bolt like you did, but I would have a friend hold the flex plate so that the motor didn't turn over and then use a big 1/2" drive ratchet with a bar on it and just start working it down. With about 2' of extra leverage you can get it to seat all the way. Once you do that and it stops moving swap out the bolts, put the new one in, and with a breaker bar see if you can not get the bolt to turn 1/4 to 1/2 more and that should keep it in place. I've never had a problem so far *knock on wood*

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

I hit it with the impact to keep it on. I think I'm still going to get it to the stealership to tighten it up, or make sure I got it tightened up all the way.

1LEThumper

I think a 200lb man on a 5' breaker bar will put more tq on that thing than any impact that your going to find at a dealer could do.

Rob'sGMCSS

I had the dame problem when I swapped out my engine, that thing was on there good. good to hear you got it off. later

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

After playing around a little more .. I can tell a difference now. I could launch it from 2k rpm before, not it will get pretty good spin, where it would just scratch the tires. It feels a lot more responsive with the smaller pulley on there too.

I just wonder if I can get a small enough pulley on the RADIX snout without any slippage whn the time comes.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Anyone changing the pulley in the future can try using a chain wrench and an extension on your breaker bar. You keep the pulley from turning with the chain wrench and the extra doubling the length of your breaker bar gives you the added torque you need to help loosen the bolt. GM puts locktite under the head of that bolt and under the heads of the rocker bolts too. Once you break the locktite seal the bolts come with less effort.

LS1csherm

Sent you a PM - Chain Wrench ? - Where did you buy ?

onyx

i was wondering that too... i dont think we use that on the planes...

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

You should be able to find one at Home depot or a plumbing supply house. Rigid makes them. Just make sure that you get one long enough to go around the damper. You might be better off to get the tool that holds the flex plate.

Bruce