bgray

iTrader: (2)

damm! i never evne thought about using dowl....what a great idea..lol

def use that, and get a spring compressor and cylinder compressiom fitting...to be safe.

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

I personally have never changed the front seal but why not if you can. All my swaps have been on trucks with less that 50k miles.

New crank bolt, water pump gaskets, timing cover gasket, sealer for the bottom edge of the timing cover, new timing cover gasket, torque wrenches, dowels to hold the lifters, good 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Longer crank pulley bolt to get it started back or the heat method which I haven't tried. Recommend the crane dual valve spring tool and compressed air method for the valve springs. Good magnet and some vasoline to get the keepers out and in. Rubber mallet to tap the valves to get the keepers popped loose.

By far the hardest part is getting the crank pulley on and off and torqued properly. If you can come up with Kent Moore flywheel holding tool it would make this much easier.

Gator

Dow method is new to me....Explain please.

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

3 ways that I know of to hold up the lifters. 1> Spin the cam an hope the lifter trays hold 2> Spin up into the trays and run pen magnets down into the pushrod holes to help hold the lifters from the top. 3> Dowels. Spin the lifters up into the holders then insert dowel rods, some use wooden, I used aluminum, into access holes from the front of the engine. I forget the sizes... but they wedge the lifters to help hold them up.

LARRY01Z28

iTrader: (28)

5/16 is the size.

RandomHero

iTrader: (24)

I just did this in my truck not 3 weeks ago. Here's what you should replace:
*Oil Pump and Oil Pump Oring. At the very least buy the oring to
replace
Cam
Springs
Timing Chain

Tools you'll need:
Tons of 8mm,10mm, 15mm and a bigass 24mm or something to that extent

You'll also need some 5/16th wooden dowels. 1slow01z71 ground one side down and they worked like a charm

We rented the Chrysler Harmonic Puller at Autozone and it worked pretty damn good.

I'd definantly recomend the longer crank bolt

Air Tools make it too much easier.

Oh and from personal experience. DON'T TIGHTEN DOWN THE ROCKERS WITH THE DOWELS STILL IN. That was a pretty crazy scare when we thought I had cracked that plastic case for the lifter(I'm a dumbass).

bgray

iTrader: (2)

well is it really nesseary to fo the oil pump when the truck has 60,000 KILMOTERES on it...?? kinda uneeded. Im gonna repalce every gasket/seal i need when I do the swap.

Gator

I was going to put a dbl roller chain on mine, but was unable to remove the oil pump...in order to take off the pump you have to remove the the pick up tube which in turns means lower the oil pan (unless someone knows a secret)....I didn't want to deal with lowering the pan so I passed on the chain....also reused every single original gasket...not one single leak

bgray

iTrader: (2)

Nwo they all recommend a LONGER crank bolt??? I know the bolts are a one time use bolt...but why a longer one???

Also..If I get an ASP underdrive, the botl that it comes with, that means i wouldnt ahve to buy a new crank bolt correct?

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

In my parts list the longer crank bolt is used to pull the pulley onto the crank with. Then remove it and go back the new factory one to torque it down. If you use the stock length you won't have enough thread engagement and risk stripping threads.

Longer bolt to pull it on most of the way on. Old crank bolt to seat the pulley completely. Torqued to 250 lbs. Remove it and replace with the new bolt and follow the torque sequence with it. From memory think its torque to 20lbs then 240 degrees.