parish8

iTrader: (6)

"13.5 in the 1/4 mile should be a memory to you now."

i would love to think you are right about that and that there is more hiding in there for me to find, why do you think that? at http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_etmph.asp

if i figure 500fwhp(whipple says 450 for a stock 6.0 then add for the exhaust)

cut that down to 400rwhp(20% driveline loss)

figure 5500lb truck

and deduct an extra .5 for the converter, not sure how to figure the converter

and comes out to a 13.44et i think i will be within a couple of tenths of that number.

i think the radiator, fan and injectors may all have been a waste of money, seems to me a 10cent resistor fixed my problem, i spent $1200 or so trying to get knock(probably false) under control and all it took was a resistor.

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by parish8:
<strong>...whipple says...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There is the problem.

Also-

Hypertech says...
Volant says...
K&N says...
Helix power tower says... - hehehe
Flowmaster says...

Whoever says dont mean jack to me anymore. What I hear now is - whipple sells... K&N sells... Flowmaster sells...

I don't mean to be an ***, don't take all of this the wrong way. Its my opinion that you should move on from the whipple, thats all it is, my opinion. But if I had spent $10K+ in performance upgrades to run 14s or even high 13s, I would be one mad SOB.

<small>[ October 25, 2002, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: BigTex ]</small>

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

If you are truly set on keeping the whipple, spend a few more $$$ and do a dyno tune with Ed Wright. Most of the complaints about his tuning come from the guys who send their PCMs via UPS. I have heard good things about his tuning with superchargers.

<small>[ October 25, 2002, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: BigTex ]</small>

parish8

iTrader: (6)

well i agree 100% about not believing everything they claim but in this case the numbers they claim seem to work out with the et calculator.

i also agree that i could use some tuning but since i may never be done making mods to my truck it is hard for me to pay someone to tune it when i plan on changing it some more in the future. i think i am going to just try and learn how to do it myself, with all the help around here i think i can get it prety close, need a wide band though.

whoa!! 10k, i was going to argue that point but i just added it up and if i include that tranny i have coming your are right, i will be around 11k. it is alot of money and sometimes i wonder if i should just get a drag car, it is easy to get a car in the 10's. i am having fun though and it seems to me a heavy truck like ours in the 12's would be just as impresive and i get to drive it every day. i love doing 4wd burn outs, i need to get a video so i can see what it looks like from the outside.

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Jim, you are a good sport. You do have the right attitude about this stuff. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> I really want you to go fast. A 12 second 4x4 excab would rock! I just want to end up .01 faster <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

With that calculator, there is a disclaimer:

"This calculator uses rear wheel horsepower, not flywheel horsepower. This tends to be pretty close (+/- 5%) for cars that are setup for drag racing and assumes that everything in the car is fairly well matched (i.e.: cam, gears, converter, etc.). Now, if you have a car with a stock converter, 3.08 gears, and something like a 292 cam, its just not going to be very accurate. "

So I think that takes into account that you already have a converter in your truck.

On the tuning issue- We have 99 trucks that came with sub-par performance from the factory. With LS1 edit you have access to alot of nice features, but do you have full control? None of the guys can fully get rid of torque management. You knock problem wasn't fixable with LS1 edit (nor mine). You can set certain values and change a few settings, but something in the PCM overrides them. I think that if you start with a strong base PCM tune, LS1 edit would be just fine. But if you have a poor underlying PCM from the start, you always have one hand tied behind your back. I have been very tempted to have an 01 or 02 flash put on my PCM to see if it runs better.

L-EATER

iTrader: (2)

Parish- now that I have a 6.0 we have similiar combos. Yeah you have headers and a converter but I weigh a lot less. It is really weird that you mention spraying it-I was just talking to the wife last nite about doing just that. I already have the kit and I even have a full bottle! What is keeping me from it? I had flashbacks from the lightning when I was racing a blown mustang and it was detonating like crazy but I wouldn't let off the button cause I was winning. I am too stupid to know when to quit. That little incident cost me over $7000! The 75 horse hit took 7 tenths and 7 mph off the L and I figure it would do the same with the Whipple. I am going to do this soon, as soon as I work up the courage. I really think it would hold up. One of us needs to be the ginny pig.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

if that et calculator all ready takes the converter into acount than i am doing great, at 5500lbs and 400rwhp it puts me at 13.9x, i am sure i am faster than that and i think i would be that fast in normal weather(70-80deg).

i am prety sure i am going to cave on the nitrous, especialy if i am close enuff for a 75shot to get me into the 12's, in the 6.0 case it wont cost you nearly $7000 if it blows, i paid $1500 for my longblock and i think i could find another at a similar price, if the heads didn't get taken out they are still worth $300 as a core. i am more worried about what if the transfercase goes or the front diferential.

my problems right now seems to be everytime i go look at the nx kit i start thinking about all the extras i would like to have to go with it, have you seen the latest kit, where you can heat the bottle up to the right presure and run your gauge without opening the valve, looks to me like you could just always keep the bottle at the right presure and be ready to use it any time you wanted, add an in dash presure gauge and a bottle opener and all the sudden you are at $1300 or so for a nitrous kit. hm, $1300 more for 12's seems like a good deal and if i ever got the forged internals i would be ready for a 150shot

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Don't buy a new kit. There are lots of like new kits for sale. I bought my NX wet kit for $375 and it came w/ the purge. I figure I can run it for a while then sell it for about the same money. I did buy a heater and gauge kit new.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

believe me i have been watching and even making offers on some nx wet kits, these people are nuts, they all seem to want $400 for a kit with an empty bottle that cost less than $500 new. if they are only going to knock 20% of the price i will just go new, i would expect 40-50% off for something that is used. am i nuts or what, anytime i sell parts it is around 1/2 price. if i could get a bisic nx kit for $300 i would send the money out today.

there was a guy selling a remote opener i was trying to deal with, he was stuck at $190 because he paid $250 for it, well i can find them for $190 so i wanted it for less and he wouldn't budge, what is wrong with people? it's not my fault he overpaid and if he wants to sell it he needs to discoulnt it some.

just found a complete new nx kit on ebay for $465 new, the price is going down <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ October 26, 2002, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: parish8 ]</small>