Knock sensor??
05-17-2004, 05:14 PM
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Staging Lane
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Knock sensor??
Got an SES light a few days ago, they tell me its the knock sensor, is there anything to watch out for when removing the intake and connections, is it even a problem to remove the intake, anyone done this??????
05-17-2004, 08:05 PM
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Teching In
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Did mine a acouple of months ago.Heres what i posted
First I would test the 2 wires with a multi meter,and look for the correct resistance.You need to pull the intake to get to the sensors(so test them first,it could be the wiring or pcm).First pressure wash the engine good,paying close attn to where the intake meets the heads(do not ask me why I know this,I will just say it took 3 hours to clean out all the dirt from the intake ports)You will need to disconnect all the elec connectors,the coolant for the throttle body,the 2 fuel lines(special tool needed),all cables,egr valve(1 bolt at intake and bend out of way)and there is a plastic tube that runs up the drivers side fuel rail to a valve on top of the intake in the front,squeeze the gray retainer,squeeze not pull(again don't ask).I think that it.
When you get it off it should be the back knock sensor(remember the multi meter)Replace it and torque to (I will find later),rtv the rubber plug ontop.Clean the intake and head gasket surface with a rag and carb cleaner(stuff small rags down intake ports)reinstall intake and electrical.
You will need inch-lb and ft-lb torque wrench,1/4inch drive metric sockets and med thread lock.I paid $34 for the intake gaskets,$54 for the sensor,and $17 for a Haynes manual(worth it).Note canadian $.
You can not increase the voltage,the sensor is what creates the voltage for the pcm,so if the sensor goes bad you need to replace it.First thing you should do is go to the dealer,talk to the service mngr and get them to scan the comp for the code,and get a print out on that code(should be about 5 pages on how to check out the sensor,well worth it,took 10 min and it was free. I will try to get the torque specs when I find my manual.
First I would test the 2 wires with a multi meter,and look for the correct resistance.You need to pull the intake to get to the sensors(so test them first,it could be the wiring or pcm).First pressure wash the engine good,paying close attn to where the intake meets the heads(do not ask me why I know this,I will just say it took 3 hours to clean out all the dirt from the intake ports)You will need to disconnect all the elec connectors,the coolant for the throttle body,the 2 fuel lines(special tool needed),all cables,egr valve(1 bolt at intake and bend out of way)and there is a plastic tube that runs up the drivers side fuel rail to a valve on top of the intake in the front,squeeze the gray retainer,squeeze not pull(again don't ask).I think that it.
When you get it off it should be the back knock sensor(remember the multi meter)Replace it and torque to (I will find later),rtv the rubber plug ontop.Clean the intake and head gasket surface with a rag and carb cleaner(stuff small rags down intake ports)reinstall intake and electrical.
You will need inch-lb and ft-lb torque wrench,1/4inch drive metric sockets and med thread lock.I paid $34 for the intake gaskets,$54 for the sensor,and $17 for a Haynes manual(worth it).Note canadian $.
You can not increase the voltage,the sensor is what creates the voltage for the pcm,so if the sensor goes bad you need to replace it.First thing you should do is go to the dealer,talk to the service mngr and get them to scan the comp for the code,and get a print out on that code(should be about 5 pages on how to check out the sensor,well worth it,took 10 min and it was free. I will try to get the torque specs when I find my manual.
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