Lets play...Name that broken part
#31
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Originally Posted by NoChrome
Is the knocking based on engine speed or vehicle speed? Like if you revv it up past say, 3,500 will the knock go a way?
If ever really want to find out whats wrong with it, it needs to be torn down now. Because when whatever it is fails, it will take other things with it. Then the culprit will be harder to diagnose. You can get money for those 5.3 heads now (if they're not damaged), but when/if that piston lets go, you'll have no coin to help offset the cost of the 6.0L. JMO.
#32
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from what Ive heard that sounds like a piston and most likely #7 as many have already said. What happened?? Did you go lean?? Do you know what your AF was at? Id be more interested in what caused it. Most Ive heard of were from FMU's or just bad tuning.
You probably smoked the motor. I would focus on fixing what did it.
You probably smoked the motor. I would focus on fixing what did it.
#35
OK, I read all the post since I left I'll try to answer the ?'s I remember.
I would rather do a swap if the $$ to repair is over, say $700 I'm not going to rebuild a 5.3 for what I can get a 402ci for.
I dont know if I went lean. My injectors were maxed out on top at 128% duty cycle during my dyno tune but, even then I was 12.5 AFR or something close to that. The run that broke the part was the 1st of the night and I heard no pinging or knock until after I pulled off the track.
The knock comes with engine rpm. It goes away around 40mph because thats the only time I get above 1500+ rpm.
I have seen people pull their pistons out of the block and the rings fall apart as well.
The part that will baffle you now is that the knock is GONE! Not even at idle. I never put it under boost but I just drove 50+ miles with no issues at all. Maybe once it cools down I will crank it again and see. Why would it be temp related? I would rather not drive until I figure it out but I really dont have much choice. At least to work and back. 20 miles a day.
Any new ideas as to why the knock had disappeared?
I would rather do a swap if the $$ to repair is over, say $700 I'm not going to rebuild a 5.3 for what I can get a 402ci for.
I dont know if I went lean. My injectors were maxed out on top at 128% duty cycle during my dyno tune but, even then I was 12.5 AFR or something close to that. The run that broke the part was the 1st of the night and I heard no pinging or knock until after I pulled off the track.
The knock comes with engine rpm. It goes away around 40mph because thats the only time I get above 1500+ rpm.
I have seen people pull their pistons out of the block and the rings fall apart as well.
The part that will baffle you now is that the knock is GONE! Not even at idle. I never put it under boost but I just drove 50+ miles with no issues at all. Maybe once it cools down I will crank it again and see. Why would it be temp related? I would rather not drive until I figure it out but I really dont have much choice. At least to work and back. 20 miles a day.
Any new ideas as to why the knock had disappeared?
#36
single digit dreamer
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
OK, I read all the post since I left I'll try to answer the ?'s I remember.
I would rather do a swap if the $$ to repair is over, say $700 I'm not going to rebuild a 5.3 for what I can get a 402ci for.
I dont know if I went lean. My injectors were maxed out on top at 128% duty cycle during my dyno tune but, even then I was 12.5 AFR or something close to that. The run that broke the part was the 1st of the night and I heard no pinging or knock until after I pulled off the track.
The knock comes with engine rpm. It goes away around 40mph because thats the only time I get above 1500+ rpm.
I have seen people pull their pistons out of the block and the rings fall apart as well.
The part that will baffle you now is that the knock is GONE! Not even at idle. I never put it under boost but I just drove 50+ miles with no issues at all. Maybe once it cools down I will crank it again and see. Why would it be temp related? I would rather not drive until I figure it out but I really dont have much choice. At least to work and back. 20 miles a day.
Any new ideas as to why the knock had disappeared?
I would rather do a swap if the $$ to repair is over, say $700 I'm not going to rebuild a 5.3 for what I can get a 402ci for.
I dont know if I went lean. My injectors were maxed out on top at 128% duty cycle during my dyno tune but, even then I was 12.5 AFR or something close to that. The run that broke the part was the 1st of the night and I heard no pinging or knock until after I pulled off the track.
The knock comes with engine rpm. It goes away around 40mph because thats the only time I get above 1500+ rpm.
I have seen people pull their pistons out of the block and the rings fall apart as well.
The part that will baffle you now is that the knock is GONE! Not even at idle. I never put it under boost but I just drove 50+ miles with no issues at all. Maybe once it cools down I will crank it again and see. Why would it be temp related? I would rather not drive until I figure it out but I really dont have much choice. At least to work and back. 20 miles a day.
Any new ideas as to why the knock had disappeared?
i keep it richer than 12.5. your injectors can't go over 100% so if the computer was telling them to go 128% they were just wide open. often the dyno(dynojet) puts less of a load on the motor than the real world so your fuel needs end up going up. also weather changes can cause significant changes in your fueling needs. you could have easily been at 13-1 or leaner. most boosted guys shoot for 11.5-12.
#38
single digit dreamer
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i think you blew it up from being too lean. was it prety cool out too?
dynojets are great for geting a number but not for tuning especialy for anything with a power adder.
doesn't the radix come with decent sized injectors? 42's i thought. they should be good for ~500rwhp i would think.
dynojets are great for geting a number but not for tuning especialy for anything with a power adder.
doesn't the radix come with decent sized injectors? 42's i thought. they should be good for ~500rwhp i would think.
#39
I have the flex fuel truck. I used my stock 38# with the radix and I didnt have to add the inline fuel pump. My fuel system was showing its weakness with the 9# pulley. I have a fuel pump voltage booster sitting next to me and 42# ford injectors in transit. I guess they are a little too late.
If I really wanted to go cheap could I just pull it apart, install a new piston and rings and be done?
EDIT: it was about 77 that night. It was in the 90's when we tuned it on the dyno.
If I really wanted to go cheap could I just pull it apart, install a new piston and rings and be done?
EDIT: it was about 77 that night. It was in the 90's when we tuned it on the dyno.
Last edited by 1SlowHoe; 10-22-2005 at 11:00 PM.
#40
single digit dreamer
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
If I really wanted to go cheap could I just pull it apart, install a new piston and rings and be done?
i am not sure but can't you get a 5.3 or for around $500? there must be a member around here that has one siting around. there is probably someone with a stock piston and rings for a 5.3 that they would give away cheap or free if you wanted to try just slaping it in there but who knows if it would be ok or not.