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Lets play...Name that broken part

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Old 11-05-2005, 01:22 AM
  #391  
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SUppose to be better I dont have any data to back it up I like that they are 12 point and easy to install. I think you have to torque the ARP's som espeacial kind of way not sure. I just know those are the exact ones you need I odn tknow on the ARP's.

Whats an extra 55 bucks when you have spent so much on the swap already

I have said that repeatedly with my swap. Thats how I ended up with the DART heads, forged bottom end, custom forged pistons, and the shaft mounted rockers
Old 11-05-2005, 01:35 AM
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I guess I'll look into it tomorrow. BTW don't respond to NakedAV, you'd only be encouraging him
Old 11-05-2005, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
BTW don't respond to NakedAV, you'd only be encouraging him
You gotta admit it is kinda funny at 1:45 in the morning I need some entertainment so I dont fall asleep.
Old 11-05-2005, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
It was a dynojet. I figured it wasn't a real world load when it said I made 413hp at the wheels but what do I know? Lookat my A/F:


What do ya think?
your running way too lean even on the dyno. see that red dotted line across the middle of the graph. you want your reading right there or alittle higher.
Old 11-05-2005, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by villainf283
your running way too lean even on the dyno. see that red dotted line across the middle of the graph. you want your reading right there or alittle higher.
Old 11-05-2005, 06:44 AM
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if it was on that red line wouldnt it be running super lean?
Old 11-05-2005, 11:11 AM
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The red line is a 13:1 AF rate. On a FI engine thats way too lean in my opinion. #7 piston seems to agree with me, it was very outspoken on this. The lower the AF ratio the better, to a point. I am shooting for 11.5:1 across the entire rpm range when I get it back running. This may cost me a few hp but I don't care. Plus, from what I have been taught since my dyno, the dyno will show you .5 to 1 point richer than you will see on the street (unless using a Mustang dyno that loads the engine more) so 12.5 on the dyno could be as much as 13.5 real world driving. With a blower that means "Boom"
Old 11-05-2005, 11:30 PM
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More part questions:
Been doing lots of searches and came up with a few more items I may want or need. You guys chime in.
LS6 Valley cover: Help keep oil from getting spit into the intake? GM P/N12568002

Plug for PCV valve if I swap to LS6 valley cover GM P/N 12568011

Oil Pump: Just because? (5.3 has 70K miles on it)

And I still am planning on the ARP rod bolts or Kaetech (sp?) Any other ARP type bolts I should get while I'm at it?

What else?
Old 11-06-2005, 06:32 AM
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1slowhoe---everything Is Ok The Name Is The Difference With The To Rod Bolts.
Old 11-06-2005, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by litreddevil
1slowhoe---everything Is Ok The Name Is The Difference With The To Rod Bolts.
So you think the Valley and the Pump are not needed?


Quick Reply: Lets play...Name that broken part



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