1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

I know where there are a couple of 6.0 for 1500-1800 for sale. Talking to another guy I was told that a 6.0 with a radix might be better than a 402/Radix. I sent you a PM on that question. If I need a new short block, I will for sure be doing a 6.0, if not a stroker. I just wish there was a way to find out the damage cause once I pull it apart, it won't go back together. So, I need to have the parts in hand as this is my daily driver.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

You need to throw a compesion tester on it and see what it says, Low or no compesion will tell you a bunch! But I will bet money, you broke a ring land off. The noise was probable the pices of pistion bouncing around and it finely got pushed out the exhaust.

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

I just let it cool all the way down and cranked it back up. The tapping/knock is still gone. So I would say you are right, whatever it was has been pushed out. If it was a part of the ring wouldn't I lose most of the compression? What happens if I drive it normal and/or under boost in this condition?
I'm looking at an 2004 LQ4 from a HD to replace the 5.3. Anybody see problems with this? I have a 65E tranny to back up to it and a Radix to slap on top. Returnless fuel system gonna be an issue with my fuel pump etc...

2002 Tahoe/Flex Fuel (Z VIN)

Mr. Sandog

No issues, but you may want the high compression (LQ9) pistons instead of the LQ4 ones, you'll be leaving 25-40 HP on the table with the dished pistons. I think the LQ9 has stronger rods too, can anyone confirm?

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

NakedAV, this is the info I got from the guy you told me to PM earlier:

Find a LQ4, they have the same heads and cam as a LQ9 with dished pistons instead of flat tops, 9.4:1 instead of 10:1 compression. The difference in power between 9.4:1 and 10.0:1 compression is probably less that 5-10hp in NA form and less than that in a boosted application.

This is why i was looking at a LQ4. Anybody got inputs on this?

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

The ring land is actually part of the piston between the top of the piston and the first ring. Usually they brake from detonation, either to lean or to much timing. Like Blownchevy says, driving it will most like likely cause more damage as another piece will probably brake off now that it is cracked and could cause more damage and the piston to seize in the bore and the motor to consume it self. How long will this take? Don't know, it’s like playing Rushin rulet (sp) with 5 bullets in the gun. Very good chance of massive failyer. If it where my truck, would check the compression, (10 bucks says it way low if any) and not drive it until it was fixed.

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

Man, this sucks! I have to drive to work and back, no way around it. If I can get the engine I'm looking at it will be at least a week to 10 days before I see it. Then I have to find somebody to help me put it in. I sure can't do it on my own. Not smart enough. Plus I would have to pull the truck in, tear it down and get it back together in 2 days max. Think it can happen that fast? Two 8 hour days with 2 guys working on it? I've never done it.

Mr. Sandog

Well I'm sure he knows more than me about it. I was going by rated numbers (LQ9 = 345HP, LQ4 = 310-325HP depending on application) but that's not enough of a difference to matter really, so you're probably in good shape there.

I'm sure you could do it in 2 days. The key is to find someone close to you with some experience willing to help. I doubt it's as hard as you think.

I went to travel.yahoo.com and found a rental car for $125/week in Pensacola. I've done this type of rental before, and when I've needed it longer, they renew the rental at the same rate (i.e. for a second week, and a third week, up to a month).

Scrapin'4.8

iTrader: (3)

16 hours is definitely possible w/someone that has done the swap before. I had a jeep i knew everything about, me and my dad could pull both engine and tranny and replace it and have it running in no more than 4 hours MAX. Just find someone that's very familiar with the swaps and knows how it's done and what needs to be done and it should be no problem. But anyhow, good luck

ronn25

iTrader: (1)

Man I hate to hear this... I too was on the way to the track Friday night and on the way the boost controller stuck and it instantly went to 10psi + and afterward I started to hear a tapping noise just like yours. Mine sounds like the common lifter noise chevys have but only louder and it does get quieter with rpm. I'm going to check the plugs, hoping the damage is in the valvetrain but more than likely its gonna be a piston. Sucks..I only have 16,000 miles on this truck