low, then no, oil pressure
#32
yes, but the seal is on the wrong side then, but it still bolts down
#33
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If you drop the pan, pull the windage tray and see what hanging on there. You can reuse the nuts, but not the bolts.
#34
While the pan was off I pulled the tray and took a look at a rod cap/bearing, it looked fine and still had some oil on it and the journal also looked fine. I was afraid to remove a main cap due to the TTY bolts needing replaced, and the fact that the side bolts are a little hard to get to with the oil cooler lines and trans cooler lines in the damn way. I figured that if a rod bearing looked good then so would a main.
#35
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well since the cam swap, your a/f (air & fuel) is off. . . . so with out being tuned, you can give yourself more air at idle by removing the PCV on the drivers side. This will give you more air into the intake. The is by no means a "fix" but a patch to keep it running until you get a tune. Just by having the hose open or by you drilling a bigger idle hole makes it more "lean."
Just get a tune with the idle bumped up, and the maf/v.e table dialed in for the cam.
Did you install new cam bearings?
Last edited by Wilde Racing; 01-16-2008 at 05:00 AM.
#36
I know of nelson, wheatley, and wait4me, what other tuners are recommended?
Did you install new cam bearings?
#37
Okay, I am super f*(&ing pissed off right now. My new ls6 oil pump and cam retaining plate came in today. Installed the cam plate, the old one looked fine.
I poured some oil into the pump and turned it by hand to coat the internals before installing it. I was attentive to the green oil pickup tube during install. Button it all back up (except for steering and front axle stuff) and fire it up to check pressure. I see about 30 cold, and let it warm up all the way and it drops to around 10.
So, I figure, maybe the sender is bad. I realize it will be impossible to get it out without breaking it unless I remove the intake, so I do. I pull the sender and install a mechanical gauge temporarily, throw the intake back on and fire it up (still warm). I see 10psi at idle and 20 when revving.
WHAT THE HELL!
I am about to pull my friggen hair out. This is some bullshit. That turbo rotary swap is looking better and better every day.
I poured some oil into the pump and turned it by hand to coat the internals before installing it. I was attentive to the green oil pickup tube during install. Button it all back up (except for steering and front axle stuff) and fire it up to check pressure. I see about 30 cold, and let it warm up all the way and it drops to around 10.
So, I figure, maybe the sender is bad. I realize it will be impossible to get it out without breaking it unless I remove the intake, so I do. I pull the sender and install a mechanical gauge temporarily, throw the intake back on and fire it up (still warm). I see 10psi at idle and 20 when revving.
WHAT THE HELL!
I am about to pull my friggen hair out. This is some bullshit. That turbo rotary swap is looking better and better every day.
#40
Red o-ring did not change anything, pressure is still 10-20.
When I went to change the lifters, the bad one did not want to come up. I figured the bottom end was mushroomed, so I stopped there. I used a magnet to hold it up off the cam, got the cam out, and then used another magnet to pull the lifter down and out the front via the cam passage. I took a little emory cloth and cleaned the bottom lip of the lifter bore up, and the new lifter moved freely up and down using only a magnet to pull up on and push down on it.
When I went to change the lifters, the bad one did not want to come up. I figured the bottom end was mushroomed, so I stopped there. I used a magnet to hold it up off the cam, got the cam out, and then used another magnet to pull the lifter down and out the front via the cam passage. I took a little emory cloth and cleaned the bottom lip of the lifter bore up, and the new lifter moved freely up and down using only a magnet to pull up on and push down on it.