Tootall

iTrader: (79)

No, pull it and leave it open to the air . . and put a small filter on there. Try it and you'll see.
yes, but the seal is on the wrong side then, but it still bolts down

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (24)

So, explain in terms of the fuel injection and electronics, what affect this has to change the idle, so I can better understand how the control system on this truck works?


Well, come on, give me a little credit. I may not be a piston engine internals guru, but as a rotary engine mechanic/builder of 8 years I think I know which way the seal goes on a one way cam retainer plate.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

well since the cam swap, your a/f (air & fuel) is off. . . . so with out being tuned, you can give yourself more air at idle by removing the PCV on the drivers side. This will give you more air into the intake. The is by no means a "fix" but a patch to keep it running until you get a tune. Just by having the hose open or by you drilling a bigger idle hole makes it more "lean."

heck I had to throw that one out there . . . I looked in your older thread, and I can't belive how bad the lifter ground it self down. If that was me, I'd be pulling the engine, and replacing the bearings at least !

If you drop the pan, pull the windage tray and see what hanging on there. You can reuse the nuts, but not the bolts.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (24)

While the pan was off I pulled the tray and took a look at a rod cap/bearing, it looked fine and still had some oil on it and the journal also looked fine. I was afraid to remove a main cap due to the TTY bolts needing replaced, and the fact that the side bolts are a little hard to get to with the oil cooler lines and trans cooler lines in the damn way. I figured that if a rod bearing looked good then so would a main.

Wilde Racing

iTrader: (26)

I get what you are saying. The hole in the throttle body allows more air into the engine at idle. And so does pulling the PVC hose. The big differents is the hole in the throttle body is metered air, were-as the pvc air is un metered. You are right, pulling the pvc will lean up the a/f ratio, but the 02 sensors will catch up and get the a/f ratio back in-line (14.68:1) in a matter of a few seconds. Plus any metered air that got pasted the pistons into the crank case has no way to return and be re-burned. Basically it will skew the maf readings. Also the PCM will do EVERY-thing it can to keep at an idle


Just get a tune with the idle bumped up, and the maf/v.e table dialed in for the cam.
Did you install new cam bearings?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (24)

Well, I plan on it, but I was hoping not to have to do it until the spring when funds recover from the holidays and the slow work season for me.

I know of nelson, wheatley, and wait4me, what other tuners are recommended?

No. Should I have? Is it possible to do with the engine in the truck? The front cam bearing, the only one I could see clearly, was still a medium gray with no gouges or significant wear that I could see.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (24)

Okay, I am super f*(&ing pissed off right now. My new ls6 oil pump and cam retaining plate came in today. Installed the cam plate, the old one looked fine.

I poured some oil into the pump and turned it by hand to coat the internals before installing it. I was attentive to the green oil pickup tube during install. Button it all back up (except for steering and front axle stuff) and fire it up to check pressure. I see about 30 cold, and let it warm up all the way and it drops to around 10.

So, I figure, maybe the sender is bad. I realize it will be impossible to get it out without breaking it unless I remove the intake, so I do. I pull the sender and install a mechanical gauge temporarily, throw the intake back on and fire it up (still warm). I see 10psi at idle and 20 when revving.

WHAT THE HELL!

I am about to pull my friggen hair out. This is some bullshit. That turbo rotary swap is looking better and better every day.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

go back to the dealer and get the "red o-ring" . . . its a better seal part No. 12584922

Truckshop

iTrader: (17)

did you inspect the block and lifter bores were the lifter broke? you may have an issue there.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (24)

Red o-ring did not change anything, pressure is still 10-20.

When I went to change the lifters, the bad one did not want to come up. I figured the bottom end was mushroomed, so I stopped there. I used a magnet to hold it up off the cam, got the cam out, and then used another magnet to pull the lifter down and out the front via the cam passage. I took a little emory cloth and cleaned the bottom lip of the lifter bore up, and the new lifter moved freely up and down using only a magnet to pull up on and push down on it.