Lq4 built and started!......somethings not right
#11
Launching!
Thread Starter
It surprises me that I'm not interested in doing my own tuning yet, but I just like turning the wrench not the computer stuff. How do I get a wideband integrated with my truck so that Black bear can read it will I record data with the efi autocal?
#13
Launching!
Thread Starter
#14
TECH Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
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You can use the EGR or AC pressure sensor to read AFR on HPT. This is the method I use but since you can't run AC while logging data through the AC sensor port I wish I had just bought the pro version to start with. Also if your not very computer savvy it's sorta confusing on how you make HPT read AFR correctly. The best way to figure it out is watch one of the youtube videos about it.
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
So I'm looking at buy the full AEM wideband kit with a guage and all that? Does a wire have to run from the guage to the EGR wire? Or can you just install a wide band 02 sensor and run the wire directly from sensor to egr wire. I just want black bear to be able to read the data and make adjustments.
Recommendations on exactly what to buy would be awesome. Talking about going crazy. i've got the swap done and can barely drive the truck in the drive way lol.
Recommendations on exactly what to buy would be awesome. Talking about going crazy. i've got the swap done and can barely drive the truck in the drive way lol.
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
You should contact black bear directly to ask them how to log wideband data with their AutoCal setup.
HP Tuners is a slightly different ball game depending on what version you would have. A pro version would mean no EGR/AC circuit wiring and the non PRO version would require it. It's also not just a plug and play with HPT, it requires that a special channel be setup and then you can log it. But we are getting off topic here.
The wideband o2 sensor must be install before the cat converters too, otherwise you will be getting skewed readings. I would pick a wideband with a gauge, it's very good information to know on a modded engine.
HP Tuners is a slightly different ball game depending on what version you would have. A pro version would mean no EGR/AC circuit wiring and the non PRO version would require it. It's also not just a plug and play with HPT, it requires that a special channel be setup and then you can log it. But we are getting off topic here.
The wideband o2 sensor must be install before the cat converters too, otherwise you will be getting skewed readings. I would pick a wideband with a gauge, it's very good information to know on a modded engine.
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Aem widebands are good and simple to hookup, the only two wires for the wideband sensor and controller (gauge) need to work are red wire is ignition on and black wire is ground, for datalogging there’s about 5 or 6 different wires for different styles of input, analog, 0-5v, serial...etc. usually the white wire is what I run to hook it up for data logging but as they said you’ll have to add a channel in the vcm scanner and have it do a math equation to get afr logged and working, kind of a pain but once it’s setup and you understand what’s going on it will make your life allot easier and tuning it will be although tedious, it will also be rewarding and teach you a lot about how the efi system works, as well as what makes power, what the truck needs to make more power and allot more.
#18
100% Redneck
Yeah the AEM X-Series is popular and the one I purchased. Some install temporary for tuning then remove, worried about the widebands o2 sensor lifespan. Mines been installed permanently for 18 months with no issues. If you have headers and a off road Y pipe you may already have a threaded bung in the Y for the widebands o2 sensor. If not the AEM kit comes with a bung that welds in. If you don't have access to a welder you can install a "no weld bung" to get the wideband operational. It's just a band clamp with the bung already welded to the clamp, it's installed with hand tools and a drill.
If you decide a tuning device is not for you... the wideband is still great tool for monitoring the engines health. This way you won't wash down the cylinders with excessive fueling or toast something running lean. Then the tuner can get you back to correct fuel, air & spark.
I mounted the AEM 30-0300 in a Auto Meter 15105 single gauge pod sprayed with SEM 17113 graphite to match my interiors trim.
If you decide a tuning device is not for you... the wideband is still great tool for monitoring the engines health. This way you won't wash down the cylinders with excessive fueling or toast something running lean. Then the tuner can get you back to correct fuel, air & spark.
I mounted the AEM 30-0300 in a Auto Meter 15105 single gauge pod sprayed with SEM 17113 graphite to match my interiors trim.
#19
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
had something like this on my sons 6.0/4l80e swap, turned out the throttle body blade was closed to much i held a flat blade screwdriver in front of the blade stop truck would fire and idle fine once i was sure that was the problem i bent the metal arm that contacts the stop to hold open the blade a little been good ever since
@RedXray how long they last has a lot to due with your tune, the one in my car has about 25k on it with no problems i had one in my 87 c10 stroker engine that was controlled by a holley commander pro ecu was a crappy engine management and replaced a few sensors on that one
@RedXray how long they last has a lot to due with your tune, the one in my car has about 25k on it with no problems i had one in my 87 c10 stroker engine that was controlled by a holley commander pro ecu was a crappy engine management and replaced a few sensors on that one
#20
TECH Enthusiast
The sensors usually last pretty long as long as they don’t get banged or dropped and as long as they aren’t mounted in a downward facing manner because that will cause moisture to collect in the sensor which will burn it up. For the x series wideband you can buy a replacement o2 sensor from orielys for $62 bucks with a one year warranty. Part number is 17212, if you have an older lsu 4.2 style sensor with the square plug the part number is 17018, the older sensors are way more durable in my opinion but they read slightly slower.