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I went ahead and swapped throttle body to the 87mm. It started easier and idled better but now I have a concerning knocking noise and it still wont idle without some gas. Knocking is loud on driver side exhaust manifold. Had 2 check engine codes and both are misfires but no specific cylinder just random. Anything seem way off in here?
I have always had stupid bad luck with remote tuners. I hired 3 different ones that were all major sponsors on one board or another. They all pretty much all blew me of for days on end and didn't lead to changes that made the vehicle run. One guy took me 13 days to sent me a file. Another tuner sent me to Vmail literally every time I called. One tuner gave me one live tuning session where he kept bumping the desired airflow until about 15 g/s and the car still stalled coming to a stop and then gave up. Couldn't get ahold of him again. I'd find you someone local with a reputation to cut to lost time down. PS Blackbear was one of the people I hired. Never got anything out of them.
If you are near LR or NWA let me know and maybe I can dig up some names.
I would hate to try to remote tune something. 90% of the time when I tune a car or truck I have to put my hands on Something that needs fixed at least once. I would say I spend at least 40 minutes on average fixing stuff so the vehicle can be properly dialed in.
I've read good reviews with @Atomic remote tunes. You'll still need the HP Tuners device to flash his files plus having the device you can actually tune your own vehicle. I'm borderline retarded and got my air, fuel, spark, shift points magnifico lol
Ive tuned hundreds of cars/trucks remotely without giving up on any of them. Obviously if there are mechanical issues that makes things more difficult, but I can usually tell what it is by the log. I do use HPTuners though instead of EFILive/autocal. I am a dealer for HPT and have a few interfaces in stock if you were wanting one. Its hard to say what your issue could be without knowing the full list of mods, specifically fuel system and cam specs.
Also the stock O2 sensors DO tell you what the fueling error is via fuel trims. They are actually more accurate than a wideband around stoich, but only work at that point which is why you need both. But to say they cant tell you how much fueling is off is not true. If they say lean, for instance, the computer will keep adding fuel until it goes rich. The computer "trims" the fueling to keep it switching around stoich.
I'm definitely interested in the HP tuners after hearing what everyone is saying. My first auto cal died and I just had to buy a new one from black bear a couple days ago. The repair facility that was suppose to fix mine never even opened the box.
Atomic if I buy one from your site is the cost of your help tuning included? Or is that just the standard price for one and to get help I need to pay you?
I can sell just the interface or a combo with the interface and my tuning services, or I can just do tuning if you find an interface somewhere else. I have 3 levels of tuning essentially: 250 for stock/bolt on, 300 for cam/internally modified, 350 for a power adder and all include unlimited retunes and not locking the tune.
Atomic has been tuning my stuff for 4+ years from bolt on 4.8 to boosted 6.0 and everything in between. I was and still am an idiot when it comes to a lot of stuff and he walks me through it bit by bit until I get it right and the tune is dead on.
Also if I were you I'd buy the "pro" edition of HP tuners so you have the analog port to read the wide band through. I wish I had and I will eventually upgrade.
Is that the engine side or post-cat side? You want the wideband as close to the collector as possible before the cat. I would have offset the sensor bungs slightly but that should be fine.
01-18-2020, 06:05 PM
