Here is some information on manifold swapping I had to do with my Whipple intercooler setup. You can reroute the idler pulley and belt to make things clear if you don't want to change accesorries, but this is how I did it to move the truck alternator to clear for the supercharger outlet tube.

As far as the accessory swaping goes, I saved an e-mail that I sent to a board member about it. Below is that e-mail.

**Also, the only reason I had to spacer the accesorries was because I had to keep everything in allignment with the Whipple Supercharger. If you had nothing like that to keep in allignment with, I would just use an F-body Harmonic balancer pulley which moves everything inward 5/8" -then you wouldn't need to worry about spacers and the allignment -which takes forever

First off, it will cost you about minimum $500 to do (if you swap accessories too) trust me The truck water pump works fine, but you will have to swap out the truck alternator/power steering pump bracket. The F-body power steering pump and alternator are different, so you will have to buy those. There is a hole missing on the iron blocks for one of the mounting points for the alternator bracket. However it works fine without it. (but I wish it were there) The power steering stuff all lines up to the stock truck heads.

Now the fun part. The truck accesories sit about 5/8" of an inch farther out than the F-body accesories. So, you will have to get threaded spacers (the strongest way to do this) and an inch longer bolts for all of the brackets.

Then, you would have to buy new injectors because the truck ones are too short to work with the F-body/Y-body('vette) fuel rail. When you change injectors to the taller ones, now you get into some fun wiring. You have to buy new injector clips. I found awesome ones at www.summitracing.com They are an MSD product (I can get you the part number if you have decided to still do this project by now)

It is involved. If you get it right, it looks sweet! Honestly though, I would try to just save up some cash for an LS1. But if you wanted to do an LS1 later, you would already have all of the accesories - except water pump (which you don't have to do anyway) and AC compressor brackets to make your truck compressor fit onto the LS1, it has to sit back farther so you would need those brackets (they are less than $40 i think)

If you think I am crazy for doing this, give me about a week. I will post something really cool!!!

That would be if you were going with the truck balancer. (either way you will need that smaller F-body idler pulley to go on the F-body alt. bracket).

If you do this, get a '97 or '98 'Vette fuel rail as it has both feed and return fittings on the fuel rail. This way you can just hook your truck fuel lines onto it.
Also you will need the F-body idler pulley to go onto the F-body alternator bracket. It is smaller than the truck one, and the truck idler will not allow the belt to move -b/c it is too big it squishes the belt.

Here are the numbers I do have though: LS1 power steering bracket #12557331 gm list $12.82, LS1 alternator bracket(the big one) #12563327 gm list $17.55, and LS1 alternator bracket(the small side one) #12556915 gm list $12.87 I don't have the number for the small LS1 idler that goes onto the alt. bracket. I think the F-body idler was $38 or $48. Just for more information, the truck pulley for the ps pump is the same size as the F-body ps pulley. The truck one is aluminum, but the F-body is plastic -only difference. I thought that might help to save cash, unless you wanted to save about a pound and a half

Okay, I think that was pretty detailed -long if anything
Let me know if you need any more info.
Ryan

 

what is the re-routing that you can do with the truck idler and belt to clear an LS1 intake ??....I would like to swap to an LS6 intake (for clearance and asthetic reasons) but would like to avoid swapping all of the accessories unless it is absolutly necessary

BTW...GREAT write-up on the f-body swap, I don't mean to hog your post with an unrealated question

 

That question is related
John at Speartech is building a project 5.3L with truck accessories and an LS6 manifold. HERE is the discussion
This is just one of his pictures showing the reroute:

 

Here is the only other thing I should mention (if you wanted to keep the EVAP system -i did)

You will have to redo the EVAP system up front as the truck EVAP sensor plugs directly into the intake. The truck sensor is unlike the F-body EVAP sensor in that there is no place to plug the truck sensor into the LS1 manifold. You can just buy an LS1 EVAP sensor though and some of the plastic flex tube connecting lines.
Other than that, everything electrical hooks up fine. There is even a nipple in the back of the F-body manifold for the fuel pressure regulator. It is a pretty straightfoward swap as long as you can solve the belt situation somehow.

 

Exactly where do you need to weld the pad onto the alternator bracket ??....and is the pad so that you can rotate the idler pulley and still have a place to secure the bottom idler pulley bracket bolts to the alternator bracket (the idler has been rotated at 90 degress counterclockwise hasn't it.....or am I just seeing things??)

 

I would send a message to John at www.speartech.com He is the guy doing the project, and he should know exactly what is involved

 

gracias senor....