LS2 died.. should I make it better?
03-25-2009 | 12:48 PM
#1
LS2 died.. should I make it better?
Well last week i posted about my LS2 blocked 6.0 taking out a main bearing. And because of this I have to tear the whole engine apart and get the block checked out. ANYWAY, I dont want to put it back together the same, so what would you recommend? remember this is an aluminum block.
Forged 6.0?
370?
402? ( if i have enough money for this one)
I will want boost in the future, but not yet. I truthfully don't know enough about 370's yet, so any information would be great.
Forged 6.0?
370?
402? ( if i have enough money for this one)
I will want boost in the future, but not yet. I truthfully don't know enough about 370's yet, so any information would be great.
03-25-2009 | 01:47 PM
#3
If you're referring to using a 3.9" bore, i wouldn't do it, the future of GM performance is 4"+ bores, so you'd be limiting yourself of head options
Depending on what I end up with on the H/C 6.0, I'm thinking about getting an aluminum forged 404 and reusing my stage 1 ls6 heads. TSP has the shortblocks for very reasonable prices. I'd also like to save the weight over the iron block.
Depending on what I end up with on the H/C 6.0, I'm thinking about getting an aluminum forged 404 and reusing my stage 1 ls6 heads. TSP has the shortblocks for very reasonable prices. I'd also like to save the weight over the iron block.
03-25-2009 | 01:50 PM
#4
383 is a 4" stroke with a 3.905 bore, he already started with a 4" bore so the smallest motor he can have with a 4" stroke is a 402.
A 370 is stock stroke crank with a 4.03 bore, which to my knowledge is pretty iffy for an LS2 block especially with boost. Id go with just a set of forged rods and pistons(364 or 365 if the machine shop takes a thousandth out for honing) and call it good. If you have the money then go 402 because with the LS2 block it has deep bore so the piston wobble that a lot of stroker motors gets is taken away by having the deep bore, thus allowing you to have a reliable stroker motor if everything else is done right.
A 370 is stock stroke crank with a 4.03 bore, which to my knowledge is pretty iffy for an LS2 block especially with boost. Id go with just a set of forged rods and pistons(364 or 365 if the machine shop takes a thousandth out for honing) and call it good. If you have the money then go 402 because with the LS2 block it has deep bore so the piston wobble that a lot of stroker motors gets is taken away by having the deep bore, thus allowing you to have a reliable stroker motor if everything else is done right.
03-25-2009 | 01:53 PM
#5
03-25-2009 | 01:56 PM
#7
383 is a 4" stroke with a 3.905 bore, he already started with a 4" bore so the smallest motor he can have with a 4" stroke is a 402.
A 370 is stock stroke crank with a 4.03 bore, which to my knowledge is pretty iffy for an LS2 block especially with boost. Id go with just a set of forged rods and pistons(364 or 365 if the machine shop takes a thousandth out for honing) and call it good. If you have the money then go 402 because with the LS2 block it has deep bore so the piston wobble that a lot of stroker motors gets is taken away by having the deep bore, thus allowing you to have a reliable stroker motor if everything else is done right.
A 370 is stock stroke crank with a 4.03 bore, which to my knowledge is pretty iffy for an LS2 block especially with boost. Id go with just a set of forged rods and pistons(364 or 365 if the machine shop takes a thousandth out for honing) and call it good. If you have the money then go 402 because with the LS2 block it has deep bore so the piston wobble that a lot of stroker motors gets is taken away by having the deep bore, thus allowing you to have a reliable stroker motor if everything else is done right.
Ahh i see. Thanks for clearing that up a little. Do you know what type of machine work I would need to get done to my block to do a 402? does it have to get re-sleeved? Im pretty much a noob on engine internals.
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03-25-2009 | 02:57 PM
#8
The only machine work need for a 4" crank over a normal build is the bottom of the cylinder bores have to be notched for the rod bolts since they will hit the bottom of the cylinder due to the longer stroke. A shop shouldnt charge more then a 100 to do that. If youve got the money Id definitely do the 402 for the added low end tq for your heavy vehicle.
