LTs = burning O2 sensor
04-25-2008, 11:12 AM
#1
LTs = burning O2 sensor
On my truck, all 4 O2s were the same model number, so after the longtube swap, i burned out bank 1 sensor 1, so i put in one from behind the cat that was on the Y pipe still. Well about a week later, same code. Heater malfunction O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1.
do i need to plug the holes and put them further back in my system? are there any sensors i can buy that hold up to heat better.
do i need to plug the holes and put them further back in my system? are there any sensors i can buy that hold up to heat better.
04-25-2008, 11:25 AM
#2
I had my o2 problem listed under tuning section. But Bank 2, Sensor 2 craps out after my LTs. I don't think it lasts 10000 mi, before it craps out. I wish someone would say what causes this or where to look? For you & me.
Does it matter if it's his( precat) ?
or mine(postcat)?
saying here, does that location, before or after make a difference on what could be wacking out o2 Sensors?
Does it matter if it's his( precat) ?
or mine(postcat)?
saying here, does that location, before or after make a difference on what could be wacking out o2 Sensors?
04-25-2008, 11:34 AM
#3
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I had this problem as well when i installed my dynatechs. I basically just moved the bank 2 sensor 2 o2 up into the capped bung hole.
Remove the bolt put the o2 in it's place and use that bolt to block the orginal o2 hole.
This fixxed the heater problem for me.
Remove the bolt put the o2 in it's place and use that bolt to block the orginal o2 hole.
This fixxed the heater problem for me.
04-25-2008, 01:05 PM
#5
They aren't burning up, the PCM is looking for a set resistance to indicate they are hot enough. By taking them out of the typical stock exhaust set up and putting them in the header setup you are now offering them a cooler exhaust stream therefore a cooler heater which the pcm doesn't like. It doesn't like it because it is trying to keep your o2 switch points in certain boundaries.
Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
04-25-2008, 01:19 PM
#6
Dewey, I only bought 1. My SES stays on now. Ceramic coated too. Even tried the cats, that was a waste of money(coated coats to deal w/ MI winters, salt & corrosion). How do I go to a "hotter" o2?
This has been bothering me for awhile, ideas good. Makes me go think.
I'll give you 1 of these> 
You're not what I thought. A lil
.
This has been bothering me for awhile, ideas good. Makes me go think.
I'll give you 1 of these> You're not what I thought. A lil.
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04-25-2008, 02:07 PM
#8
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They aren't burning up, the PCM is looking for a set resistance to indicate they are hot enough. By taking them out of the typical stock exhaust set up and putting them in the header setup you are now offering them a cooler exhaust stream therefore a cooler heater which the pcm doesn't like. It doesn't like it because it is trying to keep your o2 switch points in certain boundaries.
Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
