MAF free mod ?
#41
FWIW ... I descreeend mine, and I ended up buying a new one at 130 bucks.
With the screen gone, the air just doesn't have the time to cool the electrodes down enough for the sensor to correctly measure it.
There are guys running pretty quick on a stock MAF. That's not the place to look for performacen gains ... it's just not worth it.
With the screen gone, the air just doesn't have the time to cool the electrodes down enough for the sensor to correctly measure it.
There are guys running pretty quick on a stock MAF. That's not the place to look for performacen gains ... it's just not worth it.
#43
TECH Junkie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 0
From: Katy, TX
Sorry guys, Im not a believer. The first time i dynoed my truck, a month after i bought it, it pulled 259.6rwhp-304rwtq on a dynojet. The mods then were DESCREENED MAF, muffler welded in stock pipe, and K&N drop in. The A/F stayed @12.5.
Say it was a freek motor, but i noticed a diff when i did it. With those mods my first 1/4 was 15.1.
Now with nearly 600hp(ruff estimate) at the motor w/N2O, the descreened maf is a must.
Even with a stock truck, at WOT its pulling so much air through the MAF there will not be turbulance through it. The MAF is the smallest part of the intake. It constricts the air moving through it at such a high rate, the air has no choice but to flow strait through with minimal turbulance.
Oxi, can you really adjust the factory fuel press regulator?
Say it was a freek motor, but i noticed a diff when i did it. With those mods my first 1/4 was 15.1.
Now with nearly 600hp(ruff estimate) at the motor w/N2O, the descreened maf is a must.
Even with a stock truck, at WOT its pulling so much air through the MAF there will not be turbulance through it. The MAF is the smallest part of the intake. It constricts the air moving through it at such a high rate, the air has no choice but to flow strait through with minimal turbulance.
Oxi, can you really adjust the factory fuel press regulator?
#44
I don't see why not ... there is a set screw on the backside of it. You have to have a special tool to do it though. It's like a torx bit with a hole in the middle of it.
#46
I don't know hardly any of the answers to your questions, but here it is a close up of the regulator.
http://bettie.homeip.net/atvpics/tru...X/100_0969.JPG
http://bettie.homeip.net/atvpics/tru...X/100_0969.JPG
#47
Originally Posted by Flyer
A correction I saw somewhere, positive fuel trims signal a lean condition I believe. The positive number means it's adding that percentage of fuel, same as a negative number, it's pulling that percentage of fuel. Tuners tune a little on the rich side, that's why they say run just barely in the neg's.
#49
Snake:
Use a #10 security bit .... torx with a hole. 1/4 turn adjustments will net changes in WOT and Idle fuel pressure. It quite easy to adjust ... have some data loging equip or a fuel pressure gauge plugged into the test port.
Use a #10 security bit .... torx with a hole. 1/4 turn adjustments will net changes in WOT and Idle fuel pressure. It quite easy to adjust ... have some data loging equip or a fuel pressure gauge plugged into the test port.