icprey

iTrader: (3)

Hey Guys,

I have built over several years and phases and money bursts my 2001 RCSB LQ4 6.0 swap. I'm a capable bolt-on guy but have done the engine mods by a qualified mechanic. I'll mostly consider that portion over with, I kinda left the easier stuff for the end. Now I find myself not sure what order in best gains to worst to start the final mods on my truck. So I'll add here a list of things I can think of and would like you to maybe list your top 3 priority order of what I should go with. Opinions expressed are welcome and if you think I'm missing something let me know. The goal is of course the fastest truck possible with what I add but remaining able to cruise around in. I don't drive it that much but hope to more in the future. And NO NOS or F.I.

Build:
LQ4 6.0 with hand ported 243 heads stock truck intake
224/228 .591 .600 113lsa cam with .600 max springs
1 3/4 Full headers 3in. collector no cats into stock end pipe (cat back stock pipe 2.75in. ??) with off brand Turbo muffler cut before axle
CAI
4L60E 3600stall 3.73 Detroit TT

I'm in Canada and tuning in all aspects was a nightmare. I tried several shots with a noted tuner and Autocal, but it just didn't work out. Finally broke down and dropped it at a tuners shop for a while. Was travelling at the time and by the time I got the truck no dyno record could be found but tuner said it put 400rwhp down and he was pleasantly surprised.

So as stated above I'd like to complete some of the bolt-ons I always planned and if things need to stop I'd like to do the most gains forward. I'd love to avoid options that require a bunch of added parts to support (like fuel line adapters, and bits and pieces that can be hard to find). Here are my thoughts.

1) Electric fans: Have heard there could be anywhere from 10-20rwhp in this set-up.
2) 3in. Exhaust. I am running 3in. collector up to the rear connector portion. Would like a full 3in. system. Not sure over what I have there is a lot of gains left here, but even to better the sound and maybe send a tailpipe out the side.
3) Different Intake: Am I at a point I could see gains here. LS6, TBSS, LSXrt (ouch$$) or a lot of options out there? Anything strong value/performance?
4) Stock TB: Am I at a point I could see gains here? Keeping cable control what about all those models available. Sizing? Conflict with my current CAI?
5) Roller Rockers: Stock valvetrain in the heads, but also limited by my springs, so just the roller value here if I stay stock ratio. Fulcrum only or Stock ratio full roller rockers?

What would you do and in what order? Thx in advance for sharing.

RedXray

HP Tuners is the best mod I've done for my truck dialing in power, setting e-fans on/off, tire size changes etc. A tuner can't and won't spend as much time dialing in the MAF curve, VE tables or the timing. It takes log after log just to dial in the VE tables (speed density) the MAF curve is much easier. You can spend days even weeks tweaking in the VE.

Wideband for tuning and monitoring a/f ratio

TBSS intake with a 90mm TB

E-Fans

V V longevity V V

40K True Cool Max

Trunnion upgrade (forget the rollers)

Catch can

__________________________________________________ _

What injectors are you running?
The factory LQ4 injectors are almost maxed out stock.
Fuel Pump?

darkirish63

iTrader: (5)

Save yourself some long range ***-pain and swap out the 60e for an 80e while you're at it. The best low-cost mod you can make. And even though I do run the LSXRT, I would go with the TBSS intake to save $ as it's on par with the FAST intake for waaaaay less $.

icprey

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys!

So stock injectors and recent stock (Delphi) fuel pump as well. As I mentioned I wasn't around for the tuning session and was a few weeks before I picked the truck up. My luck the guy had like 5 other customers around and pretty much pitched me keys and said it was well drive able, my issue with the other tuner was it was not at all, so I booked it to try it out (last fall). He didn't stress anything to me in particular on the its ready phone call or in person.

I am not the most proficient software guy so HP tuners does make me a little nervous. I suppose with a baseline in there now I might be a little more at ease, but when a reputable tuner couldn't make my truck idle well with several logs provided (it did essentially go fine and top end was safe, just reverse to drive or park was stall city) I got a little spooked at the whole thing. Of course to see 12-11-10 sec cars come to the line clean the tires, back up, inch to the line with huge lumpy cams just drove me crazy jealous!!! If you new all the money I've spent trying to get it tuned you'd laugh ( Hypertech early 5.3 days, FAST Handheld tuner that was supposed to work when I added a 220 cam, AutoCal with 5.3 mail tune (worked) AutoCal with 6.0 mail tune(no-go) and finally Tuner)

Funny the tranny is mentioned, because after all these years it is on its last legs. I have to be honest I have really resisted the 4L80 for several reasons. I have 2 good stalls for the 4L60, I like that tuning is associated with the trucks original tranny package (moot point with everything at the tuner level now) and I also like that it is smaller, lighter and can be built to handle my power levels relatively everywhere. Living in Canada without shops or knowledge everywhere I have tried to stay with the many common parts (F-bodies,Vettes), cheaper and easier to find. In my head a built 4L80 is more expensive, heavier, not so much plug and play? And would I be right to say slower, trans vs trans? Maybe I don't have the right view on that tranny.

No mention from either on the cat back portion of exhaust. So not a priority to get the final portion of pipe to a matching 3in. vs the stock ?2.75in.? there is there now? I guess there is likely less than 5hp there anyways. I'll do it closer to the end.

I like the suggestions and will start reading more on them and finding the right parts. I used to travel a few times a year for work to the States so I would load my checked bag with all sorts of parts or even check a second bag at $25 to bring stuff back. Not traveling as much these days so it might take a bit more time. Hoping to also finish up with a 2/4 kit and then just keep it running. Thanks again!

RedXray

I bought HP Tuners to straighten out a mail order tune from a tuner that has a great reputation. This was just a canned tune with no data sent back and forth for tweaking the tune. These types of tunes are hit/miss and designed to only limp to a local tuner. When I first opened HP Tuners seeing all the different tables I was like uh ho what have I gotten myself into. The big issue on my mail order tune was the PE (power enrichment) tables was way to rich (engine bog) while looking at the wideband gauge. PE is like the four barrels on a carburetor. I lowered the PE numbers and BAM no more bogging at WOT. I was able to figure out the timing (spark) and how to set the rev limiter and how to change the gear ratio when I swapped gears.

I knew the fueling part was not optimal because of the "canned" generic MAF curve and VE (volumetric efficiency) tables in the mail tune. I struggled with understanding how this part, the fueling was accomplished. I read how to's on line and watch some youtube tuners explaining how to but it still just didn't click. I stumbled upon a youtube channel "Goat Rope Garage" then everything quickly changed. Kyle goes step by step showing how to setup the charts and histograms, how to log data and how to apply the data to dial in the fueling tables. It was like a veil was lifted, I had that...aha ha moment lol. I'm not a tuner and never will call myself a tuner, I'm an old retired body/paint guy but I now feel comfortable tuning the GEN 3 platform. Kyle's channel has a $15 patreon where you can email him your tune/log and he will help with any issues you're having. Try that with these so called "tuners" lol. He also has a live Youtube show every Thursday night from 8 to 9 o'clock where he answers tune questions live during the chat, it's a fun show.

Just a little work & money for the wideband and HP Tuners, you'll never have to rely on another tuner again...
did you say your tuner couldn't make a small 224 cam with 113* lsa idle without stalling... oh my!

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (20)

Everyone always says 4L80Es are so cheap and easy to find. I never see them used and for on the cheap around here.

darkirish63

iTrader: (5)

You don't need a built 80e for what you're planning. A stock unit in good shape will handle the HP/TQ you'll put out. I went through 3 built 60e's before I bit the bullet on the swap and it's really not that involved as many think and it the best peice of mind for the money when it comes to building more power into a heavy truck. A good 60e will last in a lighter car but the internals just can take the increased power and weight. There's a sticky on what you need for the swap and again, it's actually quite simple.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

I paid $400 for one of mine. Paid 3300 for the other tho lol

icprey

iTrader: (3)

Your making me think hard on the HPTuners. I do like that I might be able to support mods between installs with it, and worst case I guess I take it and the suite to the tuners and he can dyno tune it with my laptop for maximum performance.

Studied the TBSS swap last night. A little more involved in making fuel rails, cable brackets and TB's fit it seems, but I read a huge intake comparison test and it performed very well. I'll also keep my eyes on the lookout for a few of the other strong contenders in the classifieds. I need to read further on my injector limits as well.

E-Fans seem like a no brainer.

Then a few of those supporting longevity and looks mods (trans, cat back, lowering kit) and I will hopefully call it done.

dantheman1540

I highly suggest HPtuners, I also have a TBSS with a 87mm on my mild LQ4. Its no race truck by any means but pulls well from idle up to 6k. I feel no need to change it everything I've read and watches says its pretty much the top dog under 6krpm.