TwoFast

iTrader: (23)

I was told by a guy today that I could make my own more flowing MAF by cutting out the metal bar that runs horizontal through the MAF, then smoothe out the edges where you cut the bar out. Also was thinking about porting my TB this weekend. How do you do that exactly? I have a drimel tool. Don't you just grind away a little of the inside of the TB, making the TB opening bigger? Any tips of instruction on how to do this and what not to do? Also polishing the inside of the TB, How do you do it, any hp gains in doing it or will porting the TB be all I need?
What are the gains of each (porting TB, removing metal bar from MAF)?

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

You should talk to Slwo about porting the TB ... he does a few of them I think.

TwoFast

iTrader: (23)

anyone done the MAF mod like that? Anyone have instructions on exactly how much to grind off in the TB for the porting?

03Screamer

iTrader: (1)

I think that most people stay away from porting their maf's, since it's quite easy to damage them, and the benefits are very negligible. First let me start off by saying that the tb I pp'd was a 03 ETB, which is a bit different than the cable tb's. Anyway, I ported and polished my throttle body using some tricks from my r/c car engine porting days. I used a handy old dremel and smoothed out all of the rough edges on the tb entrance. Then I put a peice of brass tubing on top of the pcv hole which was the same id, and filled the surrounding area with jb weld, and then floated it to match the shape of the tb using the dremel. When removing all the blunt edges in the inside of the tb, make sure that you don't grind past where the throttle body blades sits at idle and when it is in the shut down position, or you may have big idling issues depending on how much you screw up. Then I knife edged the butterfly slide and door which increases the cfm;s, which would probably be more beneficial on a higher hp motor. A couple days later I took it off again and put in flow diverters that run at aprox. 35 degrees around the inner circumfrence of the throttle body, in the shape shark teeth, which in theory should increase the atomization of the fuel and air. Once i bolted it on I took for a test drive, and noticed a little more responsive all around and a bit more pull above 4.5 grand, as well as a bit of a added hissing sound. You're not going to notice huge gains by any means, but it's better than most of the other free mods if you do a good job, but takes a while to do a good job. If I remeber someone may have a how to site that will help you out if you decide to do it. I'm sure Slow or someone else can explain it simpler than I can. Goodluck.

BTW, did you already give up on your R/C car?

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

Leave you MAF alone. You cannot do that trick to our meters because the sensors attach to that bar you are planing to cut out.
On the TB.. Screamer gave some good directions. Basicly you just want to take out that lip just inside the mouth of the TB. Just make it a smooth transition from the outer edge to the throttle blade. Some epoxy up, smooth out and drill the recesses for vacume and IAC. You can also grind down the bars across the throttle blade. Just be careful not to take off any material where the blade seats in the closed position. Good Luck.

TwoFast

iTrader: (23)

Its on ebay right now. Couldn't tune the damn thing right. Selling it and getting money for my gear install kit.

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

They are a pain in the ***. You might try an electric car.

TwoFast

iTrader: (23)

Any pics of a ported TB?

Slowverado

click the pic in my sig gmc there's a pic of a tb i did on there