Need help pulling Transmission 2wd
11-17-2003, 05:55 AM
#11
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Use a wobble socket with a really long extension
use electrical tape on the wobble socket
to keep it stiff and in the right spot this should work
that's how we got mine to come loose
good luck
use electrical tape on the wobble socket
to keep it stiff and in the right spot this should work
that's how we got mine to come loose
good luck
11-19-2003, 07:22 PM
#13
WHOOOO!! I got it with some help from my kind uncle. Here are all of the problems we ran into so hopefully it will help you guys avoid them. The studs are all 15mm BUT the tops ones have 13mm nuts over the studs holding various brackets on. I was trying to get the 13s off with a 15 
Parish was right about the top bolt. Just get a 13 and 15mm wrench, turn it backwards and reach in right by the tranny dipstick and you can reach it easy! There was something poking the back of my hand but deal with the pain until it comes loose! All the other 7 nuts and studs can be reached from under the truck with 4 feet of extensions. Make sure the dipstick bracket doesn't get stuck between the engine and tranny It took about 5 tries to fully seat the converter. I just read a post about shimming it but I didn't do that. Oh well I hope it's ok. I put the converter bolts to 45 lbft. Also there are some plugs on the drivers side of the transmission that are glued in place! I just removed the whole circuit board because they wouldn't come unplugged. I couldn't get the starter back in without loosening the ASM header 
I hope this helps anybody doing this install. Please post any other questions or concerns. Oh yeah it took just over 2 gallons of fluid to fill it back up. HOW LONG TO BREAK IT IN? I'm ready to hammer on it!!!!! 
Parish was right about the top bolt. Just get a 13 and 15mm wrench, turn it backwards and reach in right by the tranny dipstick and you can reach it easy! There was something poking the back of my hand but deal with the pain until it comes loose! All the other 7 nuts and studs can be reached from under the truck with 4 feet of extensions. Make sure the dipstick bracket doesn't get stuck between the engine and tranny It took about 5 tries to fully seat the converter. I just read a post about shimming it but I didn't do that. Oh well I hope it's ok. I put the converter bolts to 45 lbft. Also there are some plugs on the drivers side of the transmission that are glued in place! I just removed the whole circuit board because they wouldn't come unplugged. I couldn't get the starter back in without loosening the ASM header I hope this helps anybody doing this install. Please post any other questions or concerns. Oh yeah it took just over 2 gallons of fluid to fill it back up. HOW LONG TO BREAK IT IN? I'm ready to hammer on it!!!!!
11-19-2003, 08:05 PM
#15
I used a Yank 3000. It didn't want to fully seat at first, so just pull it back a little and rotate it some until you get it right. When it is fully seated it goes way back in the case and you can just barely slip your fingers behind the converter. Kind of like a feeler gauge on spark plugs but use your fingers. At least thats what I did. Good luck man!
11-19-2003, 08:08 PM
#16
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Cash - thanks for all the info.....it will help me greatly if/when I get a built tranny and don't want to pay a shop to swap it - about the converter......I asked the owner of the shop that put in my converter and he never heard of shimming.......wether the mechanic new or not.....I doubt it , and mine runs fine.
11-19-2003, 10:02 PM
#17
that doesn't sound like enuff fluid, seems like everytime i did a tranny swap with a dry converter i used more like 13quarts, i guess that included the transfercase too, so figure more like 11quarts for the tranny, maybe the 4wd's have a deeper pan? anyways, i have a hard time telling if the tranny is full, maybe you should check it again to be sure.
11-19-2003, 10:29 PM
#18
Thanks guys for the help. I checked it a lot of times before I got it full. I didn't drop the pan though so there was still some in there. I also drove to Dallas today and back and checked it and it was good. That's a couple hundred miles so hopefully it is broken in good by now. I brake stalled it a minute ago to 2300 and smoked em down 
This kicks ***!
This kicks ***!
11-20-2003, 02:04 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by CashDudeHomie
Here is what I have done so far for anyone else who might do this. Put truck on jackstands and chock wheels, drain fluid, remove exhaust pipe, remove drive shaft, remove starter, remove 3 converter bolts (behind starter), remove mounting bolt and crossmember, disconnect hoses and unplug everything. Now I am stuck on the bellhousing bolts and nuts. I am trying to get the top one before I do the others. It is at 12 o clock the worst possible position. I put a lot of extentions together with a swivel and deep socket on the end, but there is a curve in the tunnel and the socket won't fit to line up with the bolt. Is it safe to pry to tranmission down or will it break the motor mounts? Also where can I get a tranny mount? Mine is cracked, must be all the torque 
Or maybe the bumpy roads... Any help on these bolts will help. Also are there 7 or 8 because I only see 7. 
Or maybe the bumpy roads... Any help on these bolts will help. Also are there 7 or 8 because I only see 7. I pulled mine out twice this week and found that top bolt really easy but I have a body lift lots of room haha! Any way on that tranny mount go to autozone and get the genric tranny mount for rearwheel drive vehclies Made by ENERGY SUSPENSION it is a poly mount and is better built ALOT better built!!!
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