Need informed input on my compiled mod list
#1
Need informed input on my compiled mod list
I've been reading around here for the past week trying to learn as much as I can. Some of it stuck! haha. I have a 05 Tahoe with LM7 from what I've researched with almost 100k miles and have really only owned it about three months now. In this short time I've found I have absolutely no get up and go and mid range is not much better.
I've thought about future needs and whatnot with it. It's my daily driver and will remain that way for the rest of the time I have it. I do some towing with it when the need arises and some light offroading when the mood strikes me. I don't want big power, I don't want to be a dyno queen, I don't want to be the king of the streets. I'd just like good useable power down low to up top. Somewhere in the range of 400/400. Anyways this is my list and I'd like some good honest opinions on it.
For the time being:
Volant intake
Pacesetter LT & OYP
Magnaflow 15666 catback system
Not too distant future:
3000 Stall
LS6 gold springs
7.4" pushrods
XR265HR cam
Custom tune
Along down the line:
Magnacharger with factory boost.
Retune
Do you think the stall would be the correct size for the weight of the Tahoe and help with towing?
Would the magnacharger paired up with all of the above kill my drivetrain?
I read the mixed reviews with the oil pump and feel I will just leave it alone to do whatever it wants. I don't want to pinch the o-ring or cause anything to go wrong prematurely due to tampering with anything internal.
Maybe timing set since I'm in there anyways and up to 100k miles already?
Sorry for being such a noob with all of this stuff, I learned a lot about imports (toyota's) and never GM stuff.
Dylan
I've thought about future needs and whatnot with it. It's my daily driver and will remain that way for the rest of the time I have it. I do some towing with it when the need arises and some light offroading when the mood strikes me. I don't want big power, I don't want to be a dyno queen, I don't want to be the king of the streets. I'd just like good useable power down low to up top. Somewhere in the range of 400/400. Anyways this is my list and I'd like some good honest opinions on it.
For the time being:
Volant intake
Pacesetter LT & OYP
Magnaflow 15666 catback system
Not too distant future:
3000 Stall
LS6 gold springs
7.4" pushrods
XR265HR cam
Custom tune
Along down the line:
Magnacharger with factory boost.
Retune
Do you think the stall would be the correct size for the weight of the Tahoe and help with towing?
Would the magnacharger paired up with all of the above kill my drivetrain?
I read the mixed reviews with the oil pump and feel I will just leave it alone to do whatever it wants. I don't want to pinch the o-ring or cause anything to go wrong prematurely due to tampering with anything internal.
Maybe timing set since I'm in there anyways and up to 100k miles already?
Sorry for being such a noob with all of this stuff, I learned a lot about imports (toyota's) and never GM stuff.
Dylan
#2
I would deff do a custom tune from the beginning when you do the cai and exhaust. It alone will prob net you more real world gains than both other mods. Not to mention that your truck will be running under a lean condition with the increased air/exhaust flow the stock tune.
I would look into a 2600 stall if you plan on towing; i tow alot and have been recommended this by many on this site.
A maggie would kill your tranny; they are the weak point on these trucks. As far as the engine, a good tune is the key to its life.
I would look into a 2600 stall if you plan on towing; i tow alot and have been recommended this by many on this site.
A maggie would kill your tranny; they are the weak point on these trucks. As far as the engine, a good tune is the key to its life.
#3
Baltimore Whore
iTrader: (95)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
Seems you will be well on your way with the first set of mods, but get a tune with them, it will be that much better.. However i would add a trans cooler, def a shift kit, along with a servo. It is good cheap insurance, will prolong the life just a bit.. The trans is the weakest point, it will def go, esp after the converter swap.. The cam you picked, is a great all around cam and will make good power, you won't have to rev the hell out of it to get moving vs a higher duration cam.. Also you can use the ls springs with it, but atleast do push rods. A converter is only to big if you arn't comfy with it. A 3k verter if it is tight will seem stock... The bigger the stall the more power the engine is making when it locks/flashes.. But you will have to keep it around 2800, I am not sure how big they stall them and still be able to handle towing.. Yank i thinks make a 2800 and you can tow with it, not sure the others.. You are on the rite track as far as the mods go.. Only thing would be if you are in a area where it rains or snows alot, look into a stainless steel header system..
#6
I would not worry about the timing set. Just like you said, more people pinch that O-ring and have to go back in and fix it than I can count.
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I have never heard of one breaking. And after 100,000 miles, that chain has very little wear. Like I've said before, people on this site are very sensationalist in their claims.
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I have never heard of one breaking. And after 100,000 miles, that chain has very little wear. Like I've said before, people on this site are very sensationalist in their claims.
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#8
Thank you all for your info on the matter. I'm thinking now about leaving out the blower for good. Atleast til I find out what power the intake/exhaust/cam nets me. I'm also thinking ill just do everything at once so I don't waste money on tuning twice. Wish me luck and ill keep you all informed.
Dylan
Dylan
#9
I would not worry about the timing set. Just like you said, more people pinch that O-ring and have to go back in and fix it than I can count.
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I have never heard of one breaking. And after 100,000 miles, that chain has very little wear. Like I've said before, people on this site are very sensationalist in their claims.
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I have never heard of one breaking. And after 100,000 miles, that chain has very little wear. Like I've said before, people on this site are very sensationalist in their claims.
However, consider a turbo truck with patriot dual springs and high lift camshaft. That's gotta put a considerable amount more strain on the chain than the stock valvetrain.
Then there's the issue, if there was nothing wrong with the original chain, why did GM update it in 2004 to beefier standards?
#10
Baltimore Whore
iTrader: (95)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
Look, I am the last person that wants to have to deal with the hassle of changing out the chain.
However, consider a turbo truck with patriot dual springs and high lift camshaft. That's gotta put a considerable amount more strain on the chain than the stock valvetrain.
Then there's the issue, if there was nothing wrong with the original chain, why did GM update it in 2004 to beefier standards?
However, consider a turbo truck with patriot dual springs and high lift camshaft. That's gotta put a considerable amount more strain on the chain than the stock valvetrain.
Then there's the issue, if there was nothing wrong with the original chain, why did GM update it in 2004 to beefier standards?