The Sanch

New here!

Short story.

I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD, 6.0L LQ4, 200k + miles.

Currently all I have done powertrain wise, is a Wheatley Performance Tune, Spectre CAI, and I took my stock "true dual" exhaust, and Y piped it INTO a single in/out Flowmaster 10 series muffler, sticking out past the cab underneath the bed, and no "turn down" is on there. My understanding is that this setup will balance the exhaust as well as an X pipe and 2 mufflers would do. Plus, it was cheaper, and people already ask me if it is "Cam'd out". I have also ripped out that clutch fan, and replaced it with 2 Hayden Electric Fans (2500 CFM collectively).

Anyways, what I am in the process of doing, is awaiting a date for my cam installation. Haven't decided what cam would be best for all around performance, from out of the hole, to climbing all the way up. I have the stock 4:10 rear end, so launching results in me burning out for a little bit, and then chirping the gears 1st to 2nd WOT. I was informed, depending on the cam I went with, I would gain 40 or so HP.

I definitely want replies and opinions on that! ^^^

I am researching long tube headers. I would like to know, before I purchase, what am I getting myself into? While doing research, I came across some PaceSetter Long Tubes. But I got confused when I had the option of 1 3/4 and 1 7/8. From what I have read, 1 7/8 is the way to go, plus it is less expensive. Another thing I would like to know, is what will be involved during installation...gaskets, hardware, muffler shop welding couplers, etc.

Look forward to input!

The Sanch

*Bump*

Any issues with breaking the header bolts?

The Sanch

*Bump*

Really? Nothing? Okay...any input on cams for good full range?

RS/SS 4.8

iTrader: (13)

For a cam change youll want the valve cover gaskets, the timing cover gaskets and the front cover seal (crank). Since you will be in the area it wouldn't be a bad idea to change out the timing setup with a fresh chain and gears. In order to change the chain you have to drop the front of the oil pan to get the pickup tube off along with the oil pump and it will be a good idea to change out the oil pump to pickup tube O-ring. A LS2 timing chain seems to be a favorite. OR you can just pull the old cam out and slap in the new one. I wouldn't... For the exhaust make sure you spray some sort of penetrant on the exhaust bolts way before you try to take em off and don't be surprised if some break. Valve spring compressor of some sort and you will have to pull the radiator to get the cam out. As for a cam maybe someone else will chime in.

The Sanch

We'll, I have been a client of Wheatley Performance for a while. We worked out a deal where the "kit", which I am not sure what that includes, labor, and tune would run $1,300. I am hoping he will do the chain upgrade, etc. But I didn't know if that is part of the job. Thanks for the quick reply.

batboy

iTrader: (6)

I installed coated Pacesetters on my 2006 Tahoe myself and documented the process in the link below. Unless you are going for max performance, the 1-3/4" headers are fine and might actually provide a bit more low end torque (plus fit better). Keep in mind the Pacesetters are not stainless steel, so they might eventually rust.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...lation-500748/

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

You DEFINITLEY need to replace the lifters with the mileage on them . No sense in doing all that work only to have a lifter crap out on you trying to lift the stiffer valve springs , it happened to me way back on a 183k 5.3 .

Miles aren't anything on these engines , but when you swap cams you really should replace the oil pump , water pump and lifters and timing chain while your doing it . It's the right way To do it and not have any problems down the road .

As far as cams go there are many choices these days , I had the pleasure of riding in a friends stock 02 HD with a 212/218 and that SOB ran great and was fun to drive with no sacrifce around town .
Don't go jumping into a huge top end cam that will take away from the pleasure of driving around and also require a torque converter . People go too big most of the time on cams in their daily driver and make them less fun to drive around , remember your not always driving with at WOT

The Sanch

Thanks guys! I got the long tubes installed this weekend. Sweeeeeeet. As for the oil pump, it is already brand new, my old one randomly maxed out at 38...that's where it's supposed idle!

maroon88iroc

Did you feel a good difference in the Headers (assuming you went with the pacesetters)? I just ordered a set and plan to install this weekend.

For the cam I will agree the 212/218 low lift would be a great choice. That is what I was going to grab for my 5.3 but I cam across a deal on a 214/222 .560 lift cam. I dont think $1300 is all that bad for install. If you figure the cam is basically $400 plus $100 for pushrods $100-180 for springs then the timing chain, balancer bolt, and gaskets. I'm assuming that $1300 includes the tune as well?

The Sanch

Sorry I have not replied, I have been really busy!

Yes, the Pacesetter longtubes made a great difference in the mid-high end. The only problem I have now is I have a really annoying exhaust leak. A couple of the bolts (the real manifold bolts on both sides to exact) snapped off during installation. I now have to remove the heads and drill them out. But that will be fixed this coming weekend, piece of cake. After that, I will be redoing my exhaust with an X pipe and two Flowmaster 10 series. I will attach a link when that is done.

As far as the cam cost, YES, that includes the tuning.